Saturday, January 17, 2009

Closing up shop for awhile

A Man Has to Eat came into existence almost a year ago as a way for my wife and me to better remember meals we had. Although I shy away from the foodie label, those who know Chrissie and me were always asking for dinner recommendations. The blog format began as a personal journal and I had no expectation that anyone outside of my family and friends would ever discover its existence.

To my surprise and delight readers began stumbling upon, and actually reading, my tiny little corner of the internet. It has given me great pleasure to serve and entertain those who have enjoyed my writing and it was educational and interesting to look at food and the dining industry from a critical perspective.

  • I'll begin with Diana, the art teacher from my school, who is a working artist and a teacher. Her passion to practice what she teaches inspired me to want to write again.
  • Chrissie, my wife, must come next. In my reviews I often switch between I and we. This is because Chrissie, even though she has nothing to do with the design or writing, is an equal partner in the content and direction of this blog. I could have done none of this without her love of food, her desire to see this page succeed, and her input.
  • I'd like to thank Liz Johnson, the food editor for The Journal News, for linking my blog on her website and for including my updates in the local links section of her food blog, SmallBites. Liz's links accounted for ten percent of my site's traffic. Writing A Man Has to Eat as a hobby provides some insight into the tremendous amount of time Liz must spend keeping her readers up to date on dining, cooking, entertaining, the blogosphere, and even gardening.
  • I must thank my family for providing a model that taught an appreciation for food and drink and the importance of value. Both my parents and my aunt and uncle were pivotal in our food education.
  • Cara, Brenda, and Steven, our very dear friends, were the first people to read the blog and were the largest contributors to the comments section. Even if no one else was reading what I wrote I would have written because I knew they would ask for the next review. Their support means the world to me in all endeavors.
  • Everyone who has emailed or commented on the blog, especially the very suportive commenters from Chowhound and the chefs/owners who wrote to give thanks for praise or to explain their positions.

Some A Man Has to Eat Statistics and Facts
  1. From April 1, 2008 (when I added the GoogleAnalytics tracking code) to January 16, 2009 we had 4,067 visits. 2,520 of them were unique visitors.
  2. The average visitor spent 2 minutes and 29 seconds on the site.
  3. The most readers in one day was 54 on December 15, 2008.
  4. Visitors were led to the site from 33 different countries. People from 9 of those countries actually stayed to read.
  5. Total money made- $18.43, but I can't collect it until I raise $100.
  6. 28 total entries. 18 full reviews. 13 partial reviews.
  7. Calories consumed- I don't even want to know.
Enjoy the New Year, support your favorite restaurants, try a new one when you can, and spread the word about what you like.

-James

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Sunday, November 30, 2008

Nessa

I feel like each of the last few reviews I've done has started with an apology for posting so infrequently. I'm sure you're all feeling the pinch in one way or another. Since a man has to eat, we've been out, but mostly to places we know and appreciate. It has become difficult to gamble money on the untested, especially after getting the last quarterly mailing for my 403B.

We've been driving by Nessa on the way home from Costco for quite some time now and we decided the positive reviews earned them a spot in our new restaurant queue. Nessa is located on the tail end of Main Street in Port Chester. They have valet parking, but we got very lucky with a spot across the street.

  • The chicken "cooked under a brick" was a textbook application of how Italian bistro should be executed
Lows
  • $17 for a glass of house Chardonnay
  • An overly fussy philosophy and attitude that is backed by neither the kitchen nor the staff
  • Sat us between the kitchen door and an open outside door when the dining room was empty
  • The house mandated we order everything at once to accommodate the kitchen (no problem), but then they sent out four plates at once and forgot to bring out our bottle of wine (problem)
  • Grilled octopus appetizer was a cold salad and not labeled as such
  • Bland vegetable entree option
Will we go back? No. Not any time soon.

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Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Espana

Ever since Solera closed the doors to its Westchester outpost, Chrissie and I have been attempting to fill the void left by our favorite Spanish restaurant. We've kept track of all the restaurants that purport to serve tapas. We've eaten from the low end to the high end and we've tried both the traditional and the progressive. Some have come very close, but none have lived up to the overall experience at Solera. Recently, we tried Espana, the fairly new tapas restaurant in Larchmont. Espana, located in the space formerly inhabited by the Larchmont Oyster House, has gotten some great press by both the professional reviewers and the lay eaters and we decided to once more try to recreate the past.

  • Great food service that isn't rushed, especially considering how busy it became at the tail end of our evening.
  • Very good food. Traditional with sparks of creativity.
Lows-
  • The room itself is very dark and narrow. It worked better as the oyster house than as a tapas bar.
  • Expensive. Tapas average ten dollars, appetizers come in at fourteen, and entrees hover around thrity. The small plates can quickly add up if you are not paying attention. Solera wasn't cheap, but the room was grander and the experience was more upscale. I'd love to see Espana make their pricing more competive, even if it means smaller portions and fewer options.
Will we go back? With so much left to try, we will definitely go back. Espana has the best tapas oriented menu we've eaten in a long time. I look forward to satisfying Spanish cravings at Espana for many years. I only hope other diners continue to find the value in a two hundred dollar tapas dinner during our current economic climate.

Espana is located at:
147 Larchmont Avenue
Larchmont, New York 10538

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Thursday, September 18, 2008

Chutney Masala

One of my favorite nights of the year is when the volleyball team I coach plays Sleepy Hollow because it is the only game I can get my wife to to attend. I'm sure the only reason she attends is because it gives her a chance to work to some neurotic hour without my condemnation and because we go out for a midweek dinner. This year we decided to try the new Indian place in Irvington, Chutney Masala.

  • Some of the best flavor profiles we've experienced in indian food
  • Progressive menu
  • Great space in a fabulous building overlooking the Hudson
  • Ample parking
  • The thin flat bread served at the start of meal comes in little rounds like a chip. I'm not entirely sure why, but I found it so much more appeaing than the larger pieces you must break.
Lows-
  • I don't want anyone to feel like I'm losing my objectivity, but the only issue I had the entire night was the ottoman styled chair I originally sat at. I could imagine that being more of a problem on the weekend when the room is crowded and it is not as easy to switch chairs
Will we go back? In a heart beat. We really like the idea of an Indian restaurant that presents itself as a bistro and not a lunch trap for those who are sick of the deli and the Chinese restaurant. The food was fantastic, I completely approve of the design and menu philosophies, and they were wise enough to employ one of my all time favorite students.

Chutney Masala is located at:
4 West Main Street
Irvington, New York 10533

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Saturday, September 6, 2008

Zuppa update

We were recently at Zuppa Restaurant for a bachelorette dinner. It was my first time going back since writing about it in February (click here to read the full review). Since there were a dozen of us at the table I can't speak to all of the plates, but I can write about how impressed I was with the coordination between the kitchen and the front of the house. Considering we were a twelve top on a Saturday night, they managed our table with the same facility as if we'd been a party of four. The pacing was perfect. We never felt rushed or delayed. More importantly, the food was all properly cooked. Fish, lamb, pasta, it didn't matter. It says something about a restaurant when they don't rest on a guaranteed tip from what they could easily view as one time diners.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Crabtree's Kittle House

Chrissie finished her last teaching class ever this summer. To celebrate, my Uncle John wanted to take us somewhere she could indulge. Those new to this blog are probably unfamiliar with Uncle John and his culinary influence on my family. Instead of writing about it again, if you are interested click here to read about him. He wanted very badly to take us to Monteverde at Oldstone Manor to sate Chrissie's appetite for foie gras, but he discovered that it is currently not on the menu. After a little research on the internet he settled on Crabtree's Kittle House, a restaurant he and my aunt used to go to quite often, but hadn't been to in years, because they offer a trio of foie gras appetizer.

Our reservation was for Saturday night and we were disappointed to read on the website that the tasting menu is offered only Sunday though Thursday. The restaurant itself is located off of route 117 in Chappaqua in a renovated white mansion. Chrissie and I had been once before, but only for brunch. Our impression that it caters to an older crowd was confirmed by the clientele populating the dining room in advance of our 7:30 reservation. As a couple who are usually in bed long before midnight, the thought of eating with quiet refined diners excites me more than a raucous dining room populated with loud Westchester yuppies.

  • Traditional excellence from the kitchen. I've complained before that some places weren't adventurous enough. Kittle House doesn't need to be adventurous. They take contemporary American and do it properly.
  • Pleasant staff who, while they might not be as polished as at some other establishments, consistently strive to please.
  • There wasn't one thing wrong with the meal.
  • Though expensive, I found it to be a very good value.
Low Points-
  • I'm not sure if this a low point, but Chrissie and I were by far the youngest people in the room. This is not the place you go to for a celebration that begins at the bar.
Will we go back? Certainly. The food, the ease of reservations, the location, and the value we perceived mandate we provide patronage. I can't think of the last time we ate a meal at this price point or with these culinary aspirations that didn't offer something to complain about- be it a snooty waiter, an overcooked course, or dish that didn't work. I only hope that I leave the Kittle House next time nearly as pleased as I was this time.

Crabtree's Kittle House is located at:
11 Kittle Road
Chappaqua, New York 10514

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Saturday, August 30, 2008

QuickBites- August

Our dedication to writing about reasonably priced Westchester restaurants took a hiatus this summer when we blew our dining budget with two dinners. Our trip to Craft for Cara's birthday and an anniversary dinner at Daniel meant we've been eating at home a lot this August. With the school year starting and paychecks coming in again, we are excited to restart our narrative descriptions of the Westchester dining scene. August's installment of QuickBites summarizes our anniversary dinner, a meal out with the Journal News' Rockland restaurant reviewers, and a summer ending appetizers only dinner at Half Moon.

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Monday, July 28, 2008

Craft

Long before Top Chef, when Chrissie and I were living in a tiny three room cottage in West Harrison, a cookbook appeared on the Border's shelf that spoke directly to my developing culinary aspirations. Think Like a Chef was important to me because it is less a compilation of recipes and more a statement of philosophy. I distinctly recall reading the author's preface and narratives twice before looking at the recipes.

Since winning his first James Beard Awards his work at the Gramercy Tavern and for his cookbook, Tom Colicchio has gone on to become a fully branded celebrity chef. Along with being the head judge on Top Chef, his Craft and Craftsteak restaurants have taken root in some of America's premier culinary hot spots.

After our terrific experience at Perilla this winter, it was no surprise to me that Cara wanted to try Craft for her birthday this summer.

  • The philosophy of the food is perfectly executed. Fresh ingredients and expert cooking are evidenced above all else
  • Craft is now the holder of the best foie gras in recent memory at A Man Has to Eat
  • A great restaurant to ease the apprehensive into fine food
  • Stunning dining room in a great neighborhood
Low points-
  • Pushy sommelier who was less than helpful
  • At these prices I don't expect servers to be trained on my table without my permission
  • I did not enjoy the family style plating (though the rest of my party did)
Will we go back? As fans of Top Chef, we had a great time checking out Colicchio's restaurant. Without the affiliation I don't know that we would have been drawn to Craft. For the prices at Craft I would prefer composed meals and an incredibly consistent front of the house. If we do go back it will definitely be for the tasting menu. Craft is one of the only restaurants I have ever seen where the tasting menu, due to the mix and match nature of the regular menu, is less expensive.

On a side note, Grub Street has reported that Tom Colicchio is planning to get back in the kitchen in a new restaurant that will plate composed dishes from a small fixed menu. This sounds more my speed.

Craft is located at:
43 East 19th Street
New York, New York 10003

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Friday, July 25, 2008

Finger Lakes- Keuka

It was a chaotic spring for us both this year. Chrissie was finishing up her tenure year at school and I was a part of the varsity lacrosse coaching staff for the first time. We only had the time and energy to take a short trip to Las Vegas. We thought we might get away to somewhere more exotic during the summer, but the cheap vacations of two years ago were no where to be found. Instead of looking to Europe, the islands, or even more distant states, Chrissie suggested the Finger Lakes. We'd had such a good time in Napa a few years ago tasting the wine and exploring the fine dining that we thought we might recreate the experience in our own backyard.

  • Heron Hill- Some impressive wines and a beautiful building. It was also here that Chrissie fell in love with OTC Wine Crackers. These are delicious and not only cleanse the palate, but sop some alcohol out of the stomach.
  • Ravines- The best winery on the west side of the lake. Along with the fine wines, they offer up interesting cheeses and snacks, which makes sense because their sprawling lawn and unobstructed view of the lake allow for perfect picnicking.
  • Keuka Lake Vineyard- This is the winery that our inn happened to be pouring while we were visiting. They have some great examples of modern New York wine, including a decent red in their Leon Millot.
We also drove out to eastern Seneca for a few tastes. The two we enjoyed most were:

  • Fox Run- Don't be put off by the large and somewhat corporate appearance here. The tasting room offers really good wine and an excellent lunch counter to help keep you going as you proceed down the rest of the lake. Fox Run is also the host to live music and an annual garlic festival.
  • Red Tail Ridge- A serpentine road takes you through beautiful rows of grape vines before depositing you at an austere building that houses a spartan, yet elegant, tasting room. Their better than average wine, scenic drive to the top of the ridge, and proximity to Fox Run make them a must stop if you are in that section of Seneca.

If you are on Keuka, I compel you to visit the Pleasant Valley Wine Company. This recommendation has nothing to do with fine wine and everything to do with New York State history. Pleasant Valley was the first bonded winery in the United States and the tour provides a window into the past. The tasting room, now mostly dark and desolate, resonates with the ghosts of imbibers from the years of the Civil War to the 1950s. To demonstrate how far NY wines have come you only have to taste the samplings of Pleasant Valley. These relic wines offer a baseline so genuine I can't believe they are still in production.

The Food

We ate three meals on Keuaka, one of which I wish I could reproduce in Westchester and one of which I wish I could trade back for two hours of my life. The best dining we found on Keuka, which is limited in its dining choices by size and location, was the Pleasant Valley Inn (not to be confused with the above mentioned Pleasant Valley Wine Company). We ate there on the recommendation of Debby, our inn keeper, and were clearly not disappointed.

Only open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, we had to eat there on our first day at the lake. I would have returned each subsequent night had they been open. To begin the meal we both ordered special appetizers. Chrissie had a delicate fried cheese plate and I ate a small presentation of Basque sardines (which our waitress kept referring to as Italian when she explained the specials. Instead of being put off, I found it slightly endearing).

The dinner options were very straightforward, but the lack of haute cuisine was not felt when the perfect cooking came from the kitchen. Chrissie and I both ordered steaks. I had my favorite, the NY strip, and Chrissie had the tenderloin Tuscana, two medallions of filet layered with grilled portobello and served with Gorgonzola butter. I ordered mine medium rare and Chrissie hers rare. Both orders were fired beyond expectation. We tend find that when Chrissie orders rare at home it is typically cooked too far or left blue. I was halfway through my steak when I told Chrissie I wanted to take the chef home with us.

However much we loved the food, I hate to admit the moment I really fell in love with the Pleasant Valley Inn was when the check came. We had drinks, a bottle of wine, appetizers, steaks, coffee, a Port, and a shared dessert and the grand total was one hundred and twenty-two dollars. I was nearly giddy when I calculated the tip. I suppose the only flaw of the evening was the lack of espresso. A high point, exclusive of the perfect steaks, was the bottle of Villa Mt Eden cab. The wine drank like a much more expensive bottle and I hope to find it at home to add to the cabinet.

The counterpoint to this meal came when we ate at the Esperanza Mansion. The only redeeming quality to this dinner was the view of the lake. We were greeted in the dining room by a family of flies loudly seeking a flaw in the window. I let that slide because it is such a beautiful old building and the menu, which I'd seen in some wineries, promised a nice meal. The promises of the menu were not kept by the kitchen. Chrissie's carpaccio resembled a not so thinly sliced not so well executed piece of rare prime rib. It was fairly foul. My scallops were texturally sound, but lacked any browning. It got worse during the main courses when both Chrissie's tuna and my chicken were incredibly overcooked. The entire experience was so consistently bad that we didn't even order drinks after our first round in an effort to expedite our departure and to keep money out of their coffers. Sadly, this meal, with no bottle of wine, no coffee, and no after dinner drinks was the same price as the far superior Pleasant Valley Inn.

I do have to say that we did thoroughly enjoy the boat tour of the lake offered by the Esperanza. The vessel was majestic and storied, the captain was informative and professional, and the crew were attentive to any needs.

The Black Sheep Inn

Chrissie found this inn in Frommer's where it is listed as a value and rated three stars. We've had good luck with similarly reviewed establishments and Chrissie sent them off an email. Later that same evening we got a call from Debbie, the innkeep/chef, and she and Chrissie began planning our trip.

The Black Sheep is located in an historic octagonal house that Debbie and her husband Marc painstakingly and accurately restored over a six year period.

Debbie, a graduate from the New England Culinary Institute and a former Cleveland caterer, greets her arriving guests in the inn driveway and immediately creates a sense of welcome.

The common areas of the inn are comfortable and, more importantly, usable. An inviting living room and dining area are on the first floor and the second floor houses a central den stocked with books, magazines, games, and puzzles. The high ceiling of this central room is capped with a stunning cupola adorned with a painted compass that takes full advantage of the daylight and is illuminated at night.

The inn's philosophy is very green and sustainable. They make their own soaps, belong to the farming collective, and cook locally and organically. Debbie is well known in Hammondsport for her cooking and this was clearly exhibited by the breakfasts she creatively put together each morning.

The Black Sheep Inn is not open to the public for dining, but, if you are a guest, Debbie will work with you to create three to five course meals that she serves in the former billiard room of the house. Chrissie and I opted for this on our final night. Debbie's blend of farm fresh food, health conscious cooking, formal culinary training, and years of experience properly ended our home state excursion to sample the wines and foods of Finger Lakes.

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Friday, July 18, 2008

Iron Horse Grill

At times we overlook the most obvious choices when deciding where to dine. For years we have known about, and eaten around, the Iron Horse Grill in Pleasantville. I can only recall hearing positive feedback about the restaurant, but we always opted for other choices when searching for higher end contemporary American food. The inclusion of Iron Horse in this year's Zagat America's Top Restaurants mandated our first visit.

Located in a converted train station on the outer perimeter of central Pleasantville, the Iron Horse Grill is very easy to get to. Parking is not an issue unless you circle the block quixotically multiple times waiting for a spot to open by the front door. Once we'd resigned ourselves to the lot, we realized it was far closer and easier than we thought.

  • Incredibly professional and friendly waitstaff
  • Varied dining options allow you to tailor the experience
  • Some of the best cooked fish I've had this year
  • This is clearly a restaurant that consistently executes its dishes and philosophy
  • Desserts worth eating
Low Points-
  • I usually enjoy more progressive flavors
  • Seating for couples is tight
  • I'm still undecided on the idea of a blind tasting that brings separate dishes to each diner
Will we return- I can easily see the Iron horse Grill becoming the type of restaurant we revisit two or three times a year. I expected the prices to be more expensive, and while they certainly aren't a bargain, they do not go above thirty dollars for the regular menu. While dishes do not go above the thirty dollar ceiling, they can not be had for less than twenty six and the appetizers are approaching entree prices, averaging fifteen dollars. The tasting menu, at $69, is very fair.

It was the overall experience that we enjoyed above any singular component. The chef made the rounds twice, the hostess was welcoming, the waiter was pleasant, the food was well prepared, the atmosphere was appropriate for the food and prices, and the bill was not shockingly expensive.

I'll be keeping watch on their website and we'll return when the summer menu is retired.

Iron Horse Grill is located at:
20 Wheeler Avenue
Pleasantville, New York 10570

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Sunday, June 29, 2008

La Panetiere

The time commitments of the last weeks of school kept Chrissie and me in since the middle of June. We decided to go somewhere celebratory to mark the end of a long year and the beginning of what will hopefully be a rejuvenating summer. Chrissie, armed with her Zagat and a desire to try local fine dining, decided it was time to visit La Panetiere in Rye. I called to make reservations and chose six when offered that or nine o'clock.

La Panetiere is located on a tremendous piece of property by the water on Milton Avenue. We arrived ten minutes early and encountered one of the few missteps of the evening when the valet parking staff was nowhere to be found. I waited for a few minutes, watching the kitchen staff play soccer in the lower lot, before I parked my own car. I understand we were a few minutes early, but I was unsettled to find the staff putting on their ties and jackets as we entered the restaurant. A valet ran to us and claimed he had to park my car. I wasn't sure whether to laugh or be annoyed when I told him that would no longer be necessary. I did not mind taking the early reservation, but I did mind not having the restaurant ready for our arrival.

  • Outstanding food
  • Leisurely pace
  • Three menu options offer a wide variety of meals
  • Perfect searing, browning, and internal temperatures
Low Points-
  • No couple, or table for that matter, should be forced to sit in such proximity to a large party when out for a fine dining dinner
  • The front of the house must be ready to accept patrons at five to six if they have a been given a six o'clock reservation
  • I found our waiter condescending. We were clearly the youngest couple in the restaurant and his job is to explain the menu, but he began the evening by gesticulating and using monosyllabic words to explain both a crepe and a souffle before he settled down. I didn't find this endearing.
Will we go back? We will go back. Despite the few flaws in the front of the house, I found this meal to be one of the best prepared I've had in Westchester. In fact, had we not been seated in a triangle configuration with the two tables from the graduation party I probably would have overlooked parking my own car and the random ramblings of a waiter who might have explained what a duck is had I given him license. I think we will definitely try La Panetiere again in the fall or winter to see what the kitchen does with heartier fare.

La Panetiere is located at:
530 Milton Road
Rye, New York 10580

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Tuesday, June 17, 2008

QuickBites- June

This month I decided to set a goal for our dining. I wanted to eat out only at neighborhood establishments that promise interesting food. The one objective condition was that the most expensive item on the regular menu could not cost more than thirty dollars. Thinking about the cost of of gas and the eventuality of a down payment for a house, I knew we could choose restaurants that offered a delicious compromise between pub/chain food and those establishments that promise a near fine dining experience.


While our latest experiment has been going on, we at A Man Has to Eat have been out twice to places we frequent with family. Enjoy these QuickBites.

Meson Los Espanoles

My aunt and uncle vacation in Spain every year and frequently gravitate to the Spanish culture and cuisine. Since Solera closed the doors to its Irvington location, they have been on a quixotic endeavor to find a replacement in Westchester. Very few establishments that promise authentic Spanish food have been left untested.

Meson Los Espanoles, located on Post Road in White Plains across from the Tango Grill, is one they have found that consistently pleases. While neither as sophisticated nor as progressive as Solera, Meson Los Espanoles offers a traditional Spanish menu in an atmosphere that is conducive to conversation and enjoyment of food (read: Aunt Nancy and Uncle John don't like eating in a place that is too crowded or loud).

Everytime we go someone orders, without fail, the pulpo a la Gallega and the boquerones con pimientos. The pulpo are served thickly sliced over potatoes with olive oil. The boquerones are bleached herring (anchovies) cured in vinegar. Both are a perfect start to a fulfilling meal.

Most of the dishes are grilled or served in a cazuela. The best way to summarize Meson Los Espanoles is as a traditional restaurant that reminds me most of coastal Spanish cooking (though their menu does certainly branch into other Spanish traditions). It doesn't offer the promise of cutting edge Spanish cuisine, but comfortably puts out dishes that replicate the foundation upon which those culinary leaps were built.

Encore

It should come as no surprise to anyone who has been reading this blog that my father asked to go to Encore for his Father's Day dinner. I'd been involved in a discussion thread on the trisate board at Chowhound recently whose focus was on places to eat in Larchmont and Mamaroneck. The usual suspects, deservedly so, all came up, but no one mentioned Encore. I threw this gem into the mix and the only person who engaged me wrote about how Le Provencal is better. My take is that Le Provencal and Encore are two very different restaurants. In my opinion, Encore defines bistro dining. That they execute it well only makes me love them more.

Last night's meal was one of the best yet. At our previous visit they were introducing new menu items, one of which was a whole baked snapper. It was just a little under done last time, but I wrote I expected it to be much better when the kitchen had a chance to get used to it. I was correct. The fish was perfectly cooked and the pineapple garnish provided a wonderful acid. Balancing out the dish was a hint of heat that I do not recall last time.

I started my meal with the grilled calamari. My mother enjoyed it last time and wanted to share the dish with me. I agreed because she is my mother and because I had grilled calamari less than a week ago at Solmar and I wanted to compare the two while the flavors and textures were still fresh on the tooth and palate. I'm not sure which flavors I liked more. The Encore plate employs a tremendous amount of garlic in a rich sauce while the Solmar plate utilizes oil and sun dried tomatoes. On Encore's side is the fact that my dish came out fresh from the oven. One of my only complaints about Solmar was my lukewarm appetizer.

Chrissie and my father split, as they usually do, a dozen escargots. I would never order this, but I enjoy having bites of theirs, especially dips of baguette into the buttery cells of the cast iron plate. I'm of the opinion that enough butter and garlic on anything will taste good.

A more pleasant surprise than doneness of my fish was the inclusion and execution of quail as a nightly special on a Monday. Both my parents ordered this dish last night and both of their birds were perfectly cooked. I would have ordered it myself had I not been on a mission to re-evaluate the snapper.

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Saturday, June 14, 2008

Solmar

On Thursday we had to go to an eight o'clock ceremony in Tarrytown so we decided to try Solmar, the new Portuguese/Brazilian restaurant. Solmar fits our latest search for neighborhood dining that is affordable and interesting. Located across the street from the Tarrytown Music Hall and next door to Chiboust, Solmar offers a menu that never breaks twenty five dollars.

The only disappointment of the evening was that they do not yet have a liquor license. I learned this the hard way when I ordered a cocktail and was met with an apologetic denial. After ordering soft drinks and waters we took a look at the menu. As we ate warm, crusty bread and contemplated dishes, a tray of cheese and olives were brought to the table.

  • interesting menu
  • very fair pricing
  • grilled sardines and octopus show that they are not looking to dumb down their cuisine
  • ethnic, neighborhood dining that promises a nice meal and does not pretend to be something greater than it is.
Low Points-
  • no liquor license (but one is in the works)
Will we go back? We will definitely go back. When Chrissie and I were first dating we would go to Caravela and Aquario all the time. Solmar offers a more casual alternative for the flavors that are a foundation of our relationship. Chrissie was the most excited I've seen her about a restaurant in a while. Since Thursday she has been raving about the food, service, and philosophy of Solmar. Next time we're going to a show at the Music Hall, Solmar will be a top contender for pre-theater dining.

Solmar is located at:
12 Main Street
Tarrytown, New York 10591

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Saturday, May 31, 2008

Haven (formerly Frodo's)

My advice, in an April review, to the owner of Cafe of Love was to cultivate a clientèle that longs to eat there over the cohort who longs to be there. Stephen, a friend of ours, asked if there are restaurants in Westchester that do what I suggested. The criteria became to find restaurants that have longevity based on their food, pricing, and pleasant atmosphere. Food and atmosphere are subjective, but price and longevity are quantifiable. To qualify for this review a restaurant had to have been in business for three years to demonstrate an ability to consistently draw customers through varying economies and food trends. Further, the most expensive entree on the regular menu could not exceed thirty dollars. The hunt was on.

A family friend recently recommended Haven. We made our reservation and went out tonight to begin proving my thesis that a restaurant can attract a strong customer base, not with a gimmicky no reservations policy and a bar that secretly wants to be a nightclub, but with inspiring food at reasonable prices.

  • The soup, flatbread pizza, mussels, and ravioli are offered as daily preparations
  • The menu is varied, but not so large to suggest the kitchen has it can't handle
  • Pricing remains reasonable, despite popularity
  • Mussels and meats all cooked perfectly (temp & texture)
Low Points-
  • Tables are too close
  • Chef either didn't notice or sent out a steak with a burnt crust and a burnt side
  • Sides left room for improvement
  • Chrissie's coffee was cold (she was afraid to ask for a new cup for fear of caffeine)
Will we go back? We will definitely go back. Haven perfectly fits the bill of a neighborhood restaurant that strives for excellence in the kitchen. While I believe our main courses, for what they were, could have been a few dollars cheaper, I did not feel cheated in any way. Haven is an excellent counterpoint to the Cafe of Love. I must say that Cafe of Love puts out a menu that is clearly a notch above Haven's, but I left Cafe of Love feeling troubled by their missteps. I left Haven thinking the chef probably had a flare up on the grill and that the waitress let Chrissie's coffee sit too long while she made my espresso. I think the pretensions of the restaurants explains the difference in my attitude.

Next time we go I anticipate trying either the fish or the daily ravioli.

Haven
is located at:
472 Bedford Road
Pleasantville, NY 10570

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Sunday, May 25, 2008

QuickBites- May

Quick Bites is a new section where I will write about restaurants that we go to all the time or restaurants that, for some reason, I am not writing up in a full review. This month we went back to Encore, had the $99 special at Morton's, and ate at Tandoori.

Encore

Encore has unveiled their summer menu. I was very excited to see a whole red snapper. Mine could have cooked for a moment more, but I'm sure by now they've worked the kinks out. We were there for the inaugural service of the new menu. Next time we are there I will certainly try the snapper again and I'm sure it will be perfect. Encore's kitchen is incredibly consistent.

Morton's

Morton's tempted our curiosity with a surf and turf dinner for two for $99. I'm usually disappointed by steak houses because I find them to be a pretentious, culinarily boring, and a poor value. The $99 special was enough to get me to try again. The deal included salad, a seafood side, a starch and a vegetable to share, a single cut filet, and a dessert.

The asparagus were incredibly overcooked, the baked potato was fine, as it should be for those prices, and the steaks were over done. My scallop side was also over cooked. Chrissie didn't love the flavor of her crab cake, but she was impressed by the quantity and ratio of crab meat. Chrissie did really enjoy her molten chocolate cake.

Add tax, cocktails, and a bottle of wine and the $99 deal topped out over $200. Great job on their part getting us in. The truly disappointing part of the dinner was that we wanted to like it. The deal runs through the end of June and we love steak. We both wondered if they sent out less than perfect cooking because we were ordering the bargain special.

High points of the night included a sommelier who was pleasant and informative and a waitress who clearly deserved her tip. A low point in staffing was a maitre de who I found condescending.

If you like Morton's, the deal is good. If you, like us, aren't into chain steak houses, I'd be careful not to get drawn in by the promise of an affordable steak house dinner.

Tandoori

Last night my aunt and uncle took us to Tandoori in Port Chester. I don't feel that qualified to rate Indian food, but of the Westchester Indian restaurants, I find Tandoori to be one of the most comfortable and consistent. Since I'm not talking about the food I'll critique the staff, which was superb.

The waiters make it their business to know my families drink orders and to remember that my uncle doesn't like to order until he's had his second drink. The one mistake of the evening, when they brought my appetizer out late, was remedied, with no prompting, with another bottle of Taj Mahal beer and coffee and ice cream after dinner.

Please comment on the food if you know Indian and this restaurant.

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