Showing posts with label wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wine. Show all posts

Friday, July 25, 2008

Finger Lakes- Keuka

It was a chaotic spring for us both this year. Chrissie was finishing up her tenure year at school and I was a part of the varsity lacrosse coaching staff for the first time. We only had the time and energy to take a short trip to Las Vegas. We thought we might get away to somewhere more exotic during the summer, but the cheap vacations of two years ago were no where to be found. Instead of looking to Europe, the islands, or even more distant states, Chrissie suggested the Finger Lakes. We'd had such a good time in Napa a few years ago tasting the wine and exploring the fine dining that we thought we might recreate the experience in our own backyard.

The Drive

We left early on Sunday morning and took 87 to 17. The drive on 17 was surprisingly pleasant. Not only did this two lane highway travel at near interstate speeds, but the other drivers showed a lane discipline not often seen in the suburbs. Rarely did a slow driver hang up the left lane. Instead, they drove in a fashion more similar to Europe, politely moving right when they saw faster traffic approaching in their rear view mirrors. I couldn't have been more pleased. Interestingly, I found that the closer we got to Binghamton, the less aware the drivers became of their surroundings. I have a new respect for rural New Yorkers, especially when it comes to road civility.

The drive itself took just over four hours and we arrived in Hammondsport around noon.

Keuka Lake

Chrissie chose Keuka Lake because she read it was the prettiest of the Finger Lakes and because it is home to two of the most recommended vintners on our list. Keuka is one of the smaller of the lakes and driving from tip to tip takes just under half an hour. Unlike wide highway along the larger Seneca next door, the road runs within throwing distance of the water, hugging the shoreline and curving to maintain its safe distance. Keuka is also unique in its offering of lodging. To stay on this lake you either rent a cottage or choose one of the small country inns.

The Wines

New York State wine has come a long way. The Finger Lakes are best known for their Rieslings, but these have certainly matured into more subtle and crafted versions of the sweet offerings I thought of before this trip. While still high on the sugar content, the better wines are drier, more complex, and use the sugar to allow the taste of the fruit to shine through rather than to make an easy drinking wine that more closely resembles grape juice. The primary red we found was Pinot Noir, but the majority of Finger Lake reds were watery and one dimensional.

Possibly the best delight of the trip was that the tasting rooms were either free or charged a nominal two dollars to try flights of five to seven wines.

Our favorite winery was easily Dr. Frank. They produce wines that most resemble the classic European and Californian varieties. They also produce some of the only truly palatable red wines we tasted during our stay.

We liked Dr. Frank so much we brought home a few bottles:

2000 Blanc de Blancs Finger Lakes Champagne- This is a very good sparkling wine done in the traditional methode champenoise. This wine is crisp and delicate and a worthwhile purchase to showcase how a New York can compete with a French.

2006 Gewurztraminer- Sweet, spicy, and interesting. One of our friends requested a bottle so we also got one for ourselves.

2006 Rkatsiteli- Sweet and dry at the same time. This was a well balanced wine we enjoyed during the tasting. The unfamiliar name also helped in this purchase. I will have fun telling friends that I just opened a bottle of Rkatsiteli.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon- While we didn't try this one, I trusted the gentleman who was pouring our tastes and talking about the wines when he said this is a great cellaring wine. We'll toss it in the cabinet and drink it in a few years and have a chance to reminisce about this vacation.

Here's a picture of the vineyards overlooking Keuka Lake taken from Dr. Frank's:


Other wineries we enjoyed on Keuka were:

  • Heron Hill- Some impressive wines and a beautiful building. It was also here that Chrissie fell in love with OTC Wine Crackers. These are delicious and not only cleanse the palate, but sop some alcohol out of the stomach.
  • Ravines- The best winery on the west side of the lake. Along with the fine wines, they offer up interesting cheeses and snacks, which makes sense because their sprawling lawn and unobstructed view of the lake allow for perfect picnicking.
  • Keuka Lake Vineyard- This is the winery that our inn happened to be pouring while we were visiting. They have some great examples of modern New York wine, including a decent red in their Leon Millot.
We also drove out to eastern Seneca for a few tastes. The two we enjoyed most were:

  • Fox Run- Don't be put off by the large and somewhat corporate appearance here. The tasting room offers really good wine and an excellent lunch counter to help keep you going as you proceed down the rest of the lake. Fox Run is also the host to live music and an annual garlic festival.
  • Red Tail Ridge- A serpentine road takes you through beautiful rows of grape vines before depositing you at an austere building that houses a spartan, yet elegant, tasting room. Their better than average wine, scenic drive to the top of the ridge, and proximity to Fox Run make them a must stop if you are in that section of Seneca.

If you are on Keuka, I compel you to visit the Pleasant Valley Wine Company. This recommendation has nothing to do with fine wine and everything to do with New York State history. Pleasant Valley was the first bonded winery in the United States and the tour provides a window into the past. The tasting room, now mostly dark and desolate, resonates with the ghosts of imbibers from the years of the Civil War to the 1950s. To demonstrate how far NY wines have come you only have to taste the samplings of Pleasant Valley. These relic wines offer a baseline so genuine I can't believe they are still in production.

The Food

We ate three meals on Keuaka, one of which I wish I could reproduce in Westchester and one of which I wish I could trade back for two hours of my life. The best dining we found on Keuka, which is limited in its dining choices by size and location, was the Pleasant Valley Inn (not to be confused with the above mentioned Pleasant Valley Wine Company). We ate there on the recommendation of Debby, our inn keeper, and were clearly not disappointed.

Only open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, we had to eat there on our first day at the lake. I would have returned each subsequent night had they been open. To begin the meal we both ordered special appetizers. Chrissie had a delicate fried cheese plate and I ate a small presentation of Basque sardines (which our waitress kept referring to as Italian when she explained the specials. Instead of being put off, I found it slightly endearing).

The dinner options were very straightforward, but the lack of haute cuisine was not felt when the perfect cooking came from the kitchen. Chrissie and I both ordered steaks. I had my favorite, the NY strip, and Chrissie had the tenderloin Tuscana, two medallions of filet layered with grilled portobello and served with Gorgonzola butter. I ordered mine medium rare and Chrissie hers rare. Both orders were fired beyond expectation. We tend find that when Chrissie orders rare at home it is typically cooked too far or left blue. I was halfway through my steak when I told Chrissie I wanted to take the chef home with us.

However much we loved the food, I hate to admit the moment I really fell in love with the Pleasant Valley Inn was when the check came. We had drinks, a bottle of wine, appetizers, steaks, coffee, a Port, and a shared dessert and the grand total was one hundred and twenty-two dollars. I was nearly giddy when I calculated the tip. I suppose the only flaw of the evening was the lack of espresso. A high point, exclusive of the perfect steaks, was the bottle of Villa Mt Eden cab. The wine drank like a much more expensive bottle and I hope to find it at home to add to the cabinet.

The counterpoint to this meal came when we ate at the Esperanza Mansion. The only redeeming quality to this dinner was the view of the lake. We were greeted in the dining room by a family of flies loudly seeking a flaw in the window. I let that slide because it is such a beautiful old building and the menu, which I'd seen in some wineries, promised a nice meal. The promises of the menu were not kept by the kitchen. Chrissie's carpaccio resembled a not so thinly sliced not so well executed piece of rare prime rib. It was fairly foul. My scallops were texturally sound, but lacked any browning. It got worse during the main courses when both Chrissie's tuna and my chicken were incredibly overcooked. The entire experience was so consistently bad that we didn't even order drinks after our first round in an effort to expedite our departure and to keep money out of their coffers. Sadly, this meal, with no bottle of wine, no coffee, and no after dinner drinks was the same price as the far superior Pleasant Valley Inn.

I do have to say that we did thoroughly enjoy the boat tour of the lake offered by the Esperanza. The vessel was majestic and storied, the captain was informative and professional, and the crew were attentive to any needs.

The Black Sheep Inn

Chrissie found this inn in Frommer's where it is listed as a value and rated three stars. We've had good luck with similarly reviewed establishments and Chrissie sent them off an email. Later that same evening we got a call from Debbie, the innkeep/chef, and she and Chrissie began planning our trip.

The Black Sheep is located in an historic octagonal house that Debbie and her husband Marc painstakingly and accurately restored over a six year period.

Debbie, a graduate from the New England Culinary Institute and a former Cleveland caterer, greets her arriving guests in the inn driveway and immediately creates a sense of welcome.

The common areas of the inn are comfortable and, more importantly, usable. An inviting living room and dining area are on the first floor and the second floor houses a central den stocked with books, magazines, games, and puzzles. The high ceiling of this central room is capped with a stunning cupola adorned with a painted compass that takes full advantage of the daylight and is illuminated at night.

The inn's philosophy is very green and sustainable. They make their own soaps, belong to the farming collective, and cook locally and organically. Debbie is well known in Hammondsport for her cooking and this was clearly exhibited by the breakfasts she creatively put together each morning.

The Black Sheep Inn is not open to the public for dining, but, if you are a guest, Debbie will work with you to create three to five course meals that she serves in the former billiard room of the house. Chrissie and I opted for this on our final night. Debbie's blend of farm fresh food, health conscious cooking, formal culinary training, and years of experience properly ended our home state excursion to sample the wines and foods of Finger Lakes.

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Sunday, May 18, 2008

Antipasti

Chrissie wanted to go and I didn't. Chrissie needed to complete her Westchester wine bar trifecta. I would have been happy going back to Mima if what she wanted was a restaurant that caters to wine drinkers. Chrissie's opinion is infinitely more important than mine when making reservations so we called for an early Saturday reservation because I'd read that the dining room packs up very quickly at the prime seating hour.

I'd been apprehensive to go to Antipasti because I've seen both very positive and very negative reviews about their food. It appeared to me that Antipasti was going to be a love it or hate establishment.

We arrived early for our six thirty reservation and were greeted by a flock of valets to park our car. Antipasti is located on the business end of North Broadway in White Plains, making the valet parking a necessity. Necessity aside, it is still convenient and a nice touch.

Entering the restaurant you are greeted by a design scheme that is very metropolitan. Red accent lights illuminate an exciting bar. On the opposite side is an antipasto bar with its variety of dishes on display. A short stairway to the dining room rises next to a small glass room with hanging cured meats and cheeses on display. Chrissie commented that it would not have looked out of place in Manhattan. I replied that this is the changing face of a White Plains. Not only is White Plains the cosmopolitan city center of Westchester, it is where I was raised and I find the transformation over the last fifteen years incredible.

We were greeted by a hostess who told us they were setting our table and invited us to sit at the bar. There was no one setting our table. She was clearly directing us to the bar in order to get us to start drinking. If only she had known that is what we intended to do she could have asked us if we'd like to begin our evening at the bar instead of employing upsell subterfuge.

The bar and the bartender were easily highlights of the evening. He not only mixed a nice martini, but he went through the entire performance of icing the glass and filling it with cold water in preparation for the cocktail. Chrissie's excellent glass of Californian house Chardonay was served in a quartino decanter. The bartender poured small servings into her glass and attentively refreshed when needed. We made sure to pay our tab at the bar to ensure he got his fair portion of the tip.

The dining room was very large. We were seated at a four top close to the entrance and more than one other couple noted the size upon entering. We weren't sure if we were going to order in our regular progression or vary it up and have a meal of small plates. We wound up going an entirely different route than either of us expected. I had an appetizer, Chrissie had two antipasto dishes, and we both ordered pasta, something that rarely occurs when we are out to eat. I think we were both frightened by the prices of the regular entrees. The menu only had two dishes under thirty dollars. The pasta decision was our way of testing the waters.

I began my meal with the ragu of grilled polpo and manila clams. The pasta and the broth were outstanding. The polpo was acceptable. The octopus was almost at the correct texture, but didn't add much to the dish. My suggestion, if cooking it properly is too difficult for the kitchen, is to leave it out of the dish. As a sixteen dollar appetizer, almost the cost of a full entree, I want my pulpo to be the highlight of a dish, not a curiosity for the uninitiated or a price inflater for the menu. That said, the rest of the dish was very successful and I enjoyed the textures and flavors of everything else in the dish very much.

Chrissie's small antipasto dishes arrived in the traditional fashion before my appetizer. She ordered the fried rice balls and the bruschetta del giorno. Chrissie raved about the bruschetta and how fresh the flavors were. I agreed. We both found the rice balls to be very bland. The tomato sauce they were served with did little to enhance the flavor and was the only component that could be tasted when employed.

Overall, we were so far enjoying the food. More impressive to me was how efficient and attentive the waitstaff was. I ordered a bottle of Malbec from the by the glass section of the wine menu. When the maitre de/sommelier came to open it he said, "I see you've ordered a bottle of our Malbec." When I answered that you've got love Argentina right now for wine value he made me feel informed rather than cheap.

I liked the wine list. It has many choices by the glass, covers the globe, and hits price points, with a varied selection, between thirty and three hundred. Our Malbec was tasty, affordable, and went nicely with what we were eating.

For pasta entrees I ordered the saffron mafalda and Chrissie had the egg garganelli. The pastas were both executed very nicely. Chrissie really liked the seasoning on her dish, which means others might find it a little salty. My dish was very earthy and lacked the vibrant flavor profiles of my appetizer. It was still tasty, but it did not inspire plate cleaning. The slow cooked duck in my pasta dish could have been any meat, but I still enjoyed it.

The portions were the perfect size for eating, but small for pasta dishes that break the twenty dollar price point. I would have liked to have some to take home.

For dessert we employed the maitre de again to help us select three chesses. He wanted to help, but I don't think he knew the cheeses well because he came armed with a prewritten selection instead of taking us through the various cheeses on the menu. I don't fault him for that at all. At least he had the foresight to ask someone for advice before coming to the table. We'd told him when he opened our wine that we'd be asking for his help with cheese at the end of our meal.

High points-

  • Service that matches the price point. The waitstaff was ever present, but never in the annoying way where they come by every few minutes asking how everything is. If something needed to be done, it was done.
  • Ultra modern bar makes you feel like you've left the suburbs for a moment.
  • The menu offers a tremendous amount of dining flexibility
  • Ingredients all tasted very fresh
  • Wine list offers a nice mix of affordable wines for those who don't want to spend one hundred dollars on a bottle
Low Points-
  • Pricing that matches the upscale flavor of the new downtown White Plains
Will we go back? I doubt we will return to Antipasti. It isn't that anything was bad. It is more that the value ratio was off. While I wasn't offended leaving my two hundred dollars at the table, I felt it could have been better spent somewhere else. If you like modern takes on traditional Italian cooking, you are into trying new wines, and you feel at home in a swanky establishment, then Antipasti might be a great choice for a night out. We at A Man Has to Eat don't subscribe to those criteria strongly enough to go back.

Antipasti is located at:
1 North Broadway
White Plains, New York 10601

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Sunday, April 27, 2008

Final Vegas thoughts- Emeril's and 'wichcraft

We had tickets to see Ka, a Cirque du Soleil production, on our last night. This severely limited our dining options that night. The debate between an early or late dinner was won with 5:30 reservations for Emeril's New Orleans Fish House. Listed by the MGM as a casual dining option, the restaurant impressed us. We let the waitress know we had tickets (the theater was just across the casino floor) and she expedited our meal while still letting us enjoy our dinner.

Neither of us remembers the specifics of the meal (attribute that to too much wine in the sun at the pool, the fact that we ate appetizers and entrees at a record breaking pace, and that two weeks have passed since our visit), but I do remember well cooked fish and interesting flavors. I'd do it again for mid priced Vegas dining that happens to be conveniently located in the hotel in which we are staying.

The surprise meal of the vacation happened by chance. After hiking the strip from end to end and taking the monorail back to the MGM I was starving and could not wait until dinner. I wanted something healthy, yet tasty. Something filling, but not fatty. Passing by the typical fast food, we stopped at 'wichcraft, a sandwich shop operating in the Craft family of restaurants run by Tom Colicchio. I was going to get a warm roasted turkey sandwich when my attention was caught by the roasted pork, cabbage, jalapeno, and mustard sandwich. Served on a surpisingly good ciabatta roll, this sandwich blew me away. The spice of the mustard and the jalapeno, the flavor of the pork, and the crunchy mouth feel of the cabbage combined for several of my most pleasing food minutes of the vacation.

The only other food pleasure I wish to report on is my renewed appreciation for drinking inexpensive wine out of plastic bottles in the sun. In Greece we would buy 2 liter bottles of wine and ration them out into half liter water bottles to take with us on our daily journeys. There is something so wonderfully refreshing about simply enjoying wine as a beverage. I love a fine wine as much as the next guy, but I love being reminded that the pleasure of wine is not only in its flavor and complexity, but in its ability to slightly gild the the little moments of life and to create a community experience for those participating.

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Saturday, March 22, 2008

Mima Vinoteca

After happy hour at Pour a few weeks ago Chrissie and I decided to try some of the other wine bars that have opened in Westchester. Since we were so enamored with the former location of The Red Hat in Irvington, its new occupant, Mima Vinoteca, became the next step in our wine bar dining experiment.

We arrived punctually, during daylight for the first time of the season, for a 6:30 reservation. The physical layout remained very similar in spirit to what we remembered. The brick walls, tiled floor, thick wooden tables, and central bar create an environment that is welcoming, warm, and intimate. Adding to the familiar feeling, we were greeted by one of my former students eating with her family and a teacher from another school district with whom I'd taken a few graduate classes.

The wine list is Italian, encompassing the various regions of the country, and the prices range mostly between forty and one hundred dollars, with a few outliers in the thirties and some rising to the three hundred dollar mark. I would have liked to have seen a few more bottles under forty dollars. It saddens me to think of the United States as a country that understands wine as the intoxicant of the rich. I believe wine merchants, sommeliers, and wine proponents do themselves, and the entire wine community, a disservice when they don't embrace inexperienced drinkers or those with pockets less deep.


To begin, Chrissie had a glass of the house chardonnay. It was complex, with a long finish and a buttery texture. We both found it much fruitier than the California chardonnays she typically drinks. The flavor of apple was very pronounced. I had a Tanqueray martini that was served in a stemless glass. It looked very pretty, but I prefer function to form in my barware. Luckily I finished it quickly enough that I didn't have to worry about my hands warming the cocktail.

Asking the sommelier for help and telling him we were on a budget didn't prove very useful. He directed us toward a $65 bottle that sounded promising and a $35 bottle that sounded too sweet. After determining that we did not want to spend over $50 on an untested wine, we ordered a bottle of the house cabernet sauvignon, Di Majo Norante 2006. It was surprisingly pleasant and had good mouthfeel, flavor, and spice. It could have been a bit bolder, but I was happy we had gotten a wine on the cheap that was enjoyable.

For an appetizer, Chrissie and I split a plate of handmade trecce (little braids) served with egg, black pepper, onion, and smoked bacon. The dish is presented with a beautiful yolk on top that, when broken, combines with the elements to make a luxurious sauce. It was very good and my favorite part of the meal.

For dinner, Chrissie had the lamb chops and I had the skirt steak. Her lamb chops were cooked perfectly. The outer sear formed a perfectly symmetrical layer of flavor surrounding a rare middle. A cross section cut looked like a piece of seared tuna. I found her dish, served with lentils and figs, too hearty for this late in March. In its defense, the lentils were perfectly cooked and, had it been January, I would find the plate very successful. I was also hoping the lamb chop dish would more resemble the one at Zuppa, Mima's sister restaurant in Yonkers.

My skirt steak was a very generous portion, served rolled and plated on its side atop parmigiano mashed potatoes and broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe was more than seared as promised on the menu and was mostly forgettable. The mashed potatoes were very creamy and took on the consistency of a thick sauce. If this was the chef's intent, he did a great job, because they worked well with the steak, both in terms of flavor and feel, but I wouldn't have called them mashed potatoes. The steak itself was delicious. Chrissie found it chewy, but I don't think she has ever commented positively on the texture of skirt steak. The flavor was very present, with an almost Latino bite and spice, probably from the peppedew, and I enjoyed it more than Chrissie's lamb.

For dessert we ordered a plate of three cheeses off the dinner menu. The cheeses, parmigiano reggiano, gorgonazola piccante, and taleggio, were nicely portioned and interesting. I had an espresso and then a glass of brachetto d'acqui and we called it a night.


High points- Our waiter, Pablo, was fantastic. He had no problem turning an entree into an appetizer, he
immediately summoned the sommelier when he could not answer a wine question, and he asked me when I would like my espresso served because he noticed I was still finishing a glass of wine. A friendly, competent, and attentive waiter adds so much to the enjoyment of a meal.

The food was good and Chrissie and I both got the sense that the kitchen has a very consistent output.

The dining room is perfect for a neighborhood bistro or wine bar.

That they specialize in Italian wines makes me confident the wines that populate the list have been carefully selected.


Low points- While the wine list is impressive to look at, I longed for more choices at an affordable price point.

There were too many specials to not have a printed list.


Will we go back? The dinner menu has enough small plates, including the meat and cheese plate, to warrant a trip back for an intimate after work drink and light meal. For a full dinner Chrissie and I both agree that the food was good enough to rate a second visit, but not exceptional enough to displace other restaurants on our to try list. If our next visit, hopefully after the winter menu has been retired, is as successful as our last, Mima's could make the rotation.


Mima Vinoteca is located at:
63 Main Street
Irvington, NY 10533

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Sunday, March 9, 2008

QuickBites- March

It has been about two weeks since our last update. In that time we've tried a wine bar for happy hour, gotten Greek takeout, gone to Encore with my father, and had dinner at a neighborhood American place before seeing a show in Tarrytown.

This update will be a summary and not a full review.

Feb. 29- Two weeks ago Chrissie decided that she wanted to try something different for happy hour. We typically go to Pete's Saloon after work on Friday for a few drinks and a bite to eat. This week she convinced us all to try Pour, a wine bar in Mt. Kisco. Pour has a nice atmosphere, fun and fancy small plates and platters, and a large wine list. We tried two hot dishes, the special bruschetta, and a cheese and meat plate to accompany the two wines by the glass Chrissie had and the bottle of Malbec the boys shared. We wanted to stay longer, but the wines were too expensive for a happy hour. I would love to find a wine bar that is interested in cultivating a more middle class clientèle. We stopped at Lefteris II to get Greek takeout and took everyone back to our condo for the rest of the night.

March 6- JP, my father, called last night to invite us to dinner and a jazz concert at SUNY Purchase. We went to his favorite restaraunt, Encore in Larchmont. We typically get to Encore a few times a month and value their bistro menu and consistent kitchen. Clearly others are of the same opinion as my family because the dining room is usually filled every night of the week. I had the cassoulet and Chrissie and JP both had the Chilean sea bass special.

March 8- Last night Chrissie and I had tickets to see a comedy show at the Tarrytown Music Hall. We ate at Jack and Dyl's, a neighborhood restaurant serving traditional American fare. The menu was ambitious for upgraded tavern food and the kitchen couldn't keep up with its promise. I had mussels to start and the duck special. Both were overdone. Chrissie began with a lamb over flatbread appetizer and had the Westchester Magazine recommended short ribs for dinner. She was pleased with the preparation of the lamb, it was well cooked and flavorful, but thought the short ribs were very underseasoned. Judging by how many tables were filled at such an early hour, they must be properly attracting a demographic, but I found the restaurant confused. The menu suggests something more refined, but they were out of Tanqueray, had no espresso machine, and seemed to balance an inexperienced kitchen with large portions. I'd recommend either simplifying the menu or providing more oversight in the kitchen to help marry their philosophy and execution.

This week we have a wine dinner hosted by our favorite wine store, The Wine Professionals, located in North White Plains in the Sir John's Plaza. Carmine and Eric specialize in affordable and interesting wines. They are always tasting multiple bottles on the weekend and they usually have out a dinner ruining spread of cheeses, meats, breads, and the occasional cooked food. They are very helpful and informative and are never pretentious or condescending. It is a great store for neophytes, bargain hunters, and those who like supporting neighborhood shops.

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Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Broiled Rabbit & Vintage Port

Since starting this blog two weeks ago I have come up with a few ground rules.

1) Restaurants that we frequent can't be written up the same way as new ones. Our familiarity with these establishments changes the experience and this must show in the writing for fairness and accuracy.

2) Only new meals are rated- Friends have asked why I don't write about the great meal at wherever and I tell them because the blog doesn't go back in time.

3) I won't blog a restaurant friends take us to. I don't want dinner to revolve around my experience. I want to enjoy my friends.

4) I won't rate someone else's cooking (friends, family, etc.)

That said, I am about to sidestep rule number four by simply describing and not assessing.

I've had a few influences in my love of food, drink, and cooking, but one person stands out as the man who was probably the most influential.

My Uncle John, who has been hosting and preparing family gatherings for the past two decades, is an incredibly accomplished home cook whose menus and meals put many a costly night out to shame.

Chrissie and I look forward to nights out with my aunt and uncle. They are great company, not only because we all share a fondness for food, but because they are genuinely good people.

But enough feel good writing, if you are reading this you either already know about Aunt Nancy and Uncle John or you have stumbled upon my blog and want to read about food and drink.

Last night we were invited over for a Spanish evening.

We arrived at Uncle John's house just before six thirty and were met with cocktails and a tapas presentation of jamon Serrano and an assortment of Spanish cheeses. My aunt and uncle have been vacationing in Spain for some time now and have developed quite the affinity for the Spanish culinary culture. The cheeses, ham, and olives were all imported from Spain and immediately took Chrissie and me back to our visit there two years ago.

The heavy eating began when Uncle John put four terracotta cazuelas on the stove top. Each contained olive oil, slices of garlic, tiny whole hot peppers, and a bay leaf. When the cazuelas bubbled they were turned into the traditional gambas al ajillo, or garlic shrimp, with the addition of half dozen beautiful large shrimp each.

At this point of the evening, bottles of cold vinho verde were freely flowing. Vinho verde, a young, light, effervescent wine is a favorite of mine and complements the depth of Spanish flavors very well.

The main course of the evening was broiled rabbit. When we arrived we were met by a high walled baking sheet containing the butchered and marinating pieces of two rabbits waiting to go under the broiler for an initial cooking. They got their first taste of heat as we ate cheese and then the rabbit rested while we ate the gambas.

The rabbits went back into the oven to finish cooking while Uncle John prepared the side dishes of sauteed mushrooms, white asparagus with an orange garlic sauce (al aiolio de naranja), and patatas bravas (fierce potatoes, a pan fried potatoe served with a flavorful hot sauce).

Dinner was finished with a St. James almond tart and poached pears. Before dessert was served Uncle John started talking about a bottle of Port he'd been thinking about opening. I was sent to the basement to retrieve what turned out to be a vintage bottle older than I am.

I returned to the table with a 1970 Fonseca Vintage Port and I knew my uncle must love me. The bottle was in good condition and I was instructed to carefully open it. Removing the metallic casing around the neck revealed a wax coated cork. There had been some evaporation and the wine could be smelled through the softened barrier.

I was terrified as I introduced the cork pull to the bottle. It took almost no pressure to insert the screw and I was very confident when I went to pull. My confidence was rewarded with a cork that left its bottom centimeter in the bottle. I attempted to retrieve the final piece with both the corkpull and a thin knife, but I was unsuccessful and the cork splintered into the wine. A fine strainer caught the particulate as I poured and we were ready to enjoy.

Chrissie and I both enjoy Port. Usually she will have a few sips of mine and that will be enough to sate her taste. Last night, she helped herself to a few pours. We talked and drank for some time until there were only a few inches left in the bottle. It probably would have been interesting to save the remainder for the next day and see how the flavor opened, but it didn't stand a chance against us. We finished the bottle, realized it was almost midnight, and concluded the night.






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