Solmar

On Thursday we had to go to an eight o'clock ceremony in Tarrytown so we decided to try Solmar, the new Portuguese/Brazilian restaurant. Solmar fits our latest search for neighborhood dining that is affordable and interesting. Located across the street from the Tarrytown Music Hall and next door to Chiboust, Solmar offers a menu that never breaks twenty five dollars.

The only disappointment of the evening was that they do not yet have a liquor license. I learned this the hard way when I ordered a cocktail and was met with an apologetic denial. After ordering soft drinks and waters we took a look at the menu. As we ate warm, crusty bread and contemplated dishes, a tray of cheese and olives were brought to the table.

My mother-in-law had a portobello mushrooms with hearts of palm. She was pleased to discover that it was a warm appetizer, sauteed in garlic and oil. Chrissie had codfish fritters that were served over a small salad. I ordered grilled calamari that were prepared with minced sun dried tomatoes. I discovered that I rather enjoy my sun dried tomatoes finely chopped. It adds the essential flavor and gives an interesting texture, but avoids the overpowering bite I sometimes feel sun dried tomatoes add to a dish when not properly balanced. So far all of the portions were generous and the food was good. The surprise appetizer of the evening was my father-in-law's. His shrimp and mussel soup was excellent and by far the best tasting dish at the table. The perfect amount of spice, acid, and ocean were blended in this tomato based soup. I usually don't order soup, but each time Larry does I enjoy his. I may have to start doing so more often.

Chrissie ordered the feijoada completa for her main course which, according to the menu, is Brazil's national dish. Before the table side presentation of the her pork, sausage, and black bean stew, a tray of accompaniments arrived that included sauteed collard greens, vinaigrette, some sort of grain meal (I wasn't paying close enough attention), and a citrus spread. The stew was delivered to the table in clay pot from which the waiter served Chrissie's initial portion. The covered pot was left table side to keep the second portion warm. Chrissie really liked the dish.

My mother-in-law had the special of the evening, a stuffed chicken. I found that I liked her dish the best. It had an incredible flavor that I was surprised by because it did not look or sound as interesting as it tasted.

I was pleased to find Solmar has grilled sardines as a regular item on their menu. When we went to Spain a few years ago I fell in love with sardines. The restaurant at the beach we went to had a grill set up in the back and the duties of grill tender and parking lot attendant were taken on by a gifted cook who grilled his sardines on stakes standing almost perpendicular to the coals. Five large fish were served with this dish. I'm not sure if the serving size was tremendous or if the lack of alcohol allowed my body to better tell me I'd been sated, but I could not finish the plate.

I usually don't take environmental considerations into mind when eating out, but I wish more places would offer fish lower on the food chain like sardines. So many of the big fish that restaurants serve are being over fished or are farmed and a pale imitation of the wild variation. I imagine it will take the typical American diner some time before he is comfortable with whole fish on his plate that he must fillet to enjoy. When this practice becomes more acceptable a new spectrum of aquatic bounty awaits.

The stuffed sole my father-in-law had was very well executed. I'm not a fan of stuffed sole. I find the stuffing, lemon, and butter make the fish an afterthought. I could tell his dish was properly made, it just wasn't the version that turns me into the guy who orders it next time.

High Points-

• interesting menu
• very fair pricing
• grilled sardines and octopus show that they are not looking to dumb down their cuisine
• ethnic, neighborhood dining that promises a nice meal and does not pretend to be something greater than it is.

Low Points-

• no liquor license (but one is in the works)

Will we go back? We will definitely go back. When Chrissie and I were first dating we would go to Caravela and Aquario all the time. Solmar offers a more casual alternative for the flavors that are a foundation of our relationship. Chrissie was the most excited I've seen her about a restaurant in a while. Since Thursday she has been raving about the food, service, and philosophy of Solmar. Next time we're going to a show at the Music Hall, Solmar will be a top contender for pre-theater dining.

Solmar is located at:
12 Main Street
Tarrytown, New York 10591