One of my favorite nights of the year is when the volleyball team I coach plays Sleepy Hollow because it is the only game I can get my wife to to attend. I'm sure the only reason she attends is because it gives her a chance to work to some neurotic hour without my condemnation and because we go out for a midweek dinner. This year we decided to try the new Indian place in Irvington, Chutney Masala.
Located over the train tracks in the building that formerly housed Flirt, Chutney Masala finds itself in good company with One across the street and The Red Hat a short stroll away. There is something about a properly proportioned bistro that I like more than any other dining room. I immediately felt comfortable in Chutney Masala. While I would assume Chrisse would find the room cold, she agreed with my assessment. The brick walls, square wood tables, and well placed photography create an atmosphere that is both refined and meant for food and drink. The only aspect of the room I did not like was the backless seat I was originally seated in. I didn't think I needed a back, but before I'd finished my cocktail I opted out and asked to switch to a full chair.
Making the meal more fun was being greeted by two former students in the roles of hostess and waitress. After shortly catching up we ordered drinks and I felt a little naughty for imbibing on a school night.
Since it was a week night, we split one appetizer, the lamb samosa. The samosa is one of Chrissie's favorites and since we usually order a plate, it allows us a starting point for comparison. The shell was flaky and thicker than most we have tried, but what separated this samosa from the others was the sublime filling. The spices in the lamb married for a balanced delight. We were thouroughly impressed and eager to try the main courses.
Chrissie orded the keema matar masala, a chopped lamb dish with peas. Like the filling of the samosa, the lamb was wonderful and exotic, but in no way inaccesible for anyone who enjoys flavors. I had the Goan shrimp, a slightly spicy dish in a traditional curry. The dish started with a decent amount of heat that I amped up by eating some of the whole chiles it contained. The flavor profile was rounded out by a small handful of bay leaves.
We both agreed that it was some of the best Indian food we have tried. Of greater interest is the menu itself. It seems the typical Indian restaurant manages its menu in the mix and match fashion. Chutney Masala has a menu that offers the instantly recognizable, but it also includes choices for the more adventurous or for those better versed in Indian cuisine.
Highs-
Lows-
Will we go back? In a heart beat. We really like the idea of an Indian restaurant that presents itself as a bistro and not a lunch trap for those who are sick of the deli and the Chinese restaurant. The food was fantastic, I completely approve of the design and menu philosophies, and they were wise enough to employ one of my all time favorite students.
Chutney Masala is located at:
4 West Main Street
Irvington, New York 10533
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Chutney Masala
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Mima Vinoteca
After happy hour at Pour a few weeks ago Chrissie and I decided to try some of the other wine bars that have opened in Westchester. Since we were so enamored with the former location of The Red Hat in Irvington, its new occupant, Mima Vinoteca, became the next step in our wine bar dining experiment.
We arrived punctually, during daylight for the first time of the season, for a 6:30 reservation. The physical layout remained very similar in spirit to what we remembered. The brick walls, tiled floor, thick wooden tables, and central bar create an environment that is welcoming, warm, and intimate. Adding to the familiar feeling, we were greeted by one of my former students eating with her family and a teacher from another school district with whom I'd taken a few graduate classes.
The wine list is Italian, encompassing the various regions of the country, and the prices range mostly between forty and one hundred dollars, with a few outliers in the thirties and some rising to the three hundred dollar mark. I would have liked to have seen a few more bottles under forty dollars. It saddens me to think of the United States as a country that understands wine as the intoxicant of the rich. I believe wine merchants, sommeliers, and wine proponents do themselves, and the entire wine community, a disservice when they don't embrace inexperienced drinkers or those with pockets less deep.
To begin, Chrissie had a glass of the house chardonnay. It was complex, with a long finish and a buttery texture. We both found it much fruitier than the California chardonnays she typically drinks. The flavor of apple was very pronounced. I had a Tanqueray martini that was served in a stemless glass. It looked very pretty, but I prefer function to form in my barware. Luckily I finished it quickly enough that I didn't have to worry about my hands warming the cocktail.
Asking the sommelier for help and telling him we were on a budget didn't prove very useful. He directed us toward a $65 bottle that sounded promising and a $35 bottle that sounded too sweet. After determining that we did not want to spend over $50 on an untested wine, we ordered a bottle of the house cabernet sauvignon, Di Majo Norante 2006. It was surprisingly pleasant and had good mouthfeel, flavor, and spice. It could have been a bit bolder, but I was happy we had gotten a wine on the cheap that was enjoyable.
For an appetizer, Chrissie and I split a plate of handmade trecce (little braids) served with egg, black pepper, onion, and smoked bacon. The dish is presented with a beautiful yolk on top that, when broken, combines with the elements to make a luxurious sauce. It was very good and my favorite part of the meal.
For dinner, Chrissie had the lamb chops and I had the skirt steak. Her lamb chops were cooked perfectly. The outer sear formed a perfectly symmetrical layer of flavor surrounding a rare middle. A cross section cut looked like a piece of seared tuna. I found her dish, served with lentils and figs, too hearty for this late in March. In its defense, the lentils were perfectly cooked and, had it been January, I would find the plate very successful. I was also hoping the lamb chop dish would more resemble the one at Zuppa, Mima's sister restaurant in Yonkers.
My skirt steak was a very generous portion, served rolled and plated on its side atop parmigiano mashed potatoes and broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe was more than seared as promised on the menu and was mostly forgettable. The mashed potatoes were very creamy and took on the consistency of a thick sauce. If this was the chef's intent, he did a great job, because they worked well with the steak, both in terms of flavor and feel, but I wouldn't have called them mashed potatoes. The steak itself was delicious. Chrissie found it chewy, but I don't think she has ever commented positively on the texture of skirt steak. The flavor was very present, with an almost Latino bite and spice, probably from the peppedew, and I enjoyed it more than Chrissie's lamb.
For dessert we ordered a plate of three cheeses off the dinner menu. The cheeses, parmigiano reggiano, gorgonazola piccante, and taleggio, were nicely portioned and interesting. I had an espresso and then a glass of brachetto d'acqui and we called it a night.
High points- Our waiter, Pablo, was fantastic. He had no problem turning an entree into an appetizer, he immediately summoned the sommelier when he could not answer a wine question, and he asked me when I would like my espresso served because he noticed I was still finishing a glass of wine. A friendly, competent, and attentive waiter adds so much to the enjoyment of a meal.
The food was good and Chrissie and I both got the sense that the kitchen has a very consistent output.
The dining room is perfect for a neighborhood bistro or wine bar.
That they specialize in Italian wines makes me confident the wines that populate the list have been carefully selected.
Low points- While the wine list is impressive to look at, I longed for more choices at an affordable price point.
There were too many specials to not have a printed list.
Will we go back? The dinner menu has enough small plates, including the meat and cheese plate, to warrant a trip back for an intimate after work drink and light meal. For a full dinner Chrissie and I both agree that the food was good enough to rate a second visit, but not exceptional enough to displace other restaurants on our to try list. If our next visit, hopefully after the winter menu has been retired, is as successful as our last, Mima's could make the rotation.
Mima Vinoteca is located at:
63 Main Street
Irvington, NY 10533
Sunday, March 9, 2008
QuickBites- March
It has been about two weeks since our last update. In that time we've tried a wine bar for happy hour, gotten Greek takeout, gone to Encore with my father, and had dinner at a neighborhood American place before seeing a show in Tarrytown.
This update will be a summary and not a full review.
Feb. 29- Two weeks ago Chrissie decided that she wanted to try something different for happy hour. We typically go to Pete's Saloon after work on Friday for a few drinks and a bite to eat. This week she convinced us all to try Pour, a wine bar in Mt. Kisco. Pour has a nice atmosphere, fun and fancy small plates and platters, and a large wine list. We tried two hot dishes, the special bruschetta, and a cheese and meat plate to accompany the two wines by the glass Chrissie had and the bottle of Malbec the boys shared. We wanted to stay longer, but the wines were too expensive for a happy hour. I would love to find a wine bar that is interested in cultivating a more middle class clientèle. We stopped at Lefteris II to get Greek takeout and took everyone back to our condo for the rest of the night.
March 6- JP, my father, called last night to invite us to dinner and a jazz concert at SUNY Purchase. We went to his favorite restaraunt, Encore in Larchmont. We typically get to Encore a few times a month and value their bistro menu and consistent kitchen. Clearly others are of the same opinion as my family because the dining room is usually filled every night of the week. I had the cassoulet and Chrissie and JP both had the Chilean sea bass special.
March 8- Last night Chrissie and I had tickets to see a comedy show at the Tarrytown Music Hall. We ate at Jack and Dyl's, a neighborhood restaurant serving traditional American fare. The menu was ambitious for upgraded tavern food and the kitchen couldn't keep up with its promise. I had mussels to start and the duck special. Both were overdone. Chrissie began with a lamb over flatbread appetizer and had the Westchester Magazine recommended short ribs for dinner. She was pleased with the preparation of the lamb, it was well cooked and flavorful, but thought the short ribs were very underseasoned. Judging by how many tables were filled at such an early hour, they must be properly attracting a demographic, but I found the restaurant confused. The menu suggests something more refined, but they were out of Tanqueray, had no espresso machine, and seemed to balance an inexperienced kitchen with large portions. I'd recommend either simplifying the menu or providing more oversight in the kitchen to help marry their philosophy and execution.
This week we have a wine dinner hosted by our favorite wine store, The Wine Professionals, located in North White Plains in the Sir John's Plaza. Carmine and Eric specialize in affordable and interesting wines. They are always tasting multiple bottles on the weekend and they usually have out a dinner ruining spread of cheeses, meats, breads, and the occasional cooked food. They are very helpful and informative and are never pretentious or condescending. It is a great store for neophytes, bargain hunters, and those who like supporting neighborhood shops.
Thursday, February 7, 2008
La Crémaillère Restaurant
Last Saturday Chrissie and I finally tried La Crémaillère.
Typically, if we are going out for French we go to Encore in Larchmont. Less frequently we may also dine at Le Provencal in Mamaroneck, especially if my father wants to gorge on mussels for lunch. We were going to Le Jardin Du Roi for a while, but they pissed me off once with the incredibly unexpected pricing on an appetizer (We will go back. I just need some time). The final reference point I'll be using is the Red Hat Bistro in Irvington (FYI, I liked the old location more). It was Chrissie's thirtieth birthday and she wanted to try something new.
When taking the reservation, the hostess on the phone gave a choice of two seatings for Saturday. We chose the 6:30 and arrived a few minutes early, unsure of what to expect. If nothing else had lived up to expectations, the service alone, from the valet to the uniquely labeled doggie bags waiting by the coat room, was almost worth the price of admission when compared to standard Westchester dining.
We were the first patrons and customers arrived sporadically through the evening, leading me to wish we could have made a reservation for 7:30, the time when we typically choose to eat on a weekend.
We started diner with a round a drinks. I had a gin and Chrissie had a glass of wine. The bread was a sliced country loaf. It was very good and a slight surprise as I was expecting a baguette. It, and the atmosphere, created an ambiance that was both cosmopolitan and provincial. A small quiche with smoked salmon was delivered to the table. I had to ask for the wine list and I am not sure if that is standard practice. It may be because the wine list was the size of a textbook. I found it incredibly overwhelming, especially because I have very little familiarity with pricier French wines.
I asked the waiter for help and he happily obliged, choosing a wine that fit our requests, but more than doubled the cost of our usual strategy. My father, understanding the declining value of a bottle one once it is consumed, taught me to order a less expensive wine in a nice restaurant. His assumption is that the restaurateur and/or chef won't put a dud on their wine list. For the most part, this strategy has served us very well.
The waiter recommended a bottle, whose identifying information I have since forgotten, priced at $75. I normally won't spend too much time discussing cost here, but this becomes relevant for the rest of dinner. I get the approval to spend that much from Chrissie and she says that we shouldn't worry about money tonight because it is her birthday. The waiter quickly backs her up and now he is armed with important information to help make our evening more enjoyable.
On to food. For appetizers Chrissie ordered the foie gras terrine with duck confit, bibb lettuce, and goat cheese. I had the special which was a lobster spring roll. Both appetizers were of a quality and taste to be expected. Neither was sublime, but in no way were they disappointing. As a bonus, the lobster spring rolls were generously portioned.
Shortly after our appetizers were cleared we were brought tea cups containing a solitary ravioli stuffed with duck confit and surrounded by a shallow pool of a very zesty orange sauce. I'm not sure if this was complimentary to help celebrate my wife's birthday or if everyone received it that night. It was tasty, unexpected, and came long enough before our meals that it served to aid in hunger, rather than suppress it.
We both decided to get meat that night. I was going to get the lamb, but let Chrissie order it (which turned out to benefit me). The lamb was perfectly cooked and had the fresh and distinct flavor lamb should have, but Chrissie and I both thought the flavor profile of the dish was flat. There was nothing to elevate the the natural flavor of the lamb and it stood by itself, wonderful, but alone.
I ordered the filet of beef to allow Chrissie to have the lamb. It was excellent. The steak was perfectly cooked. I am very apprehensive about ordering beef (although I do it all the time), especially at high prices because my enjoyment of it can be destroyed by a kitchen that allows a plate to go out off temperature. My steak that night was medium rare at the edges and became slightly rarer with each slice toward the thickest section. The penultimate bite was a delightful balance between rare and medium rare. The flavors on my plate blew me away. I've ordered many a steak in a bistro setting and can honestly say this was one of the top presentations I've had.
It is a too bad Chrissie's lamb didn't delight as much my steak because both dishes were perfectly fired.
The waiter had, thankfully, convinced us to order a tray of pomme frites. At least half of the tables that night ordered the fries that were presented on silver pedestal between patrons. The fries were worth the added calories and not at all out of place.
While we were eating the waiter attentively took care of our wine. I was pleased that he waited until the glasses were virtually empty until he poured another portion of wine. Not only did it extend our drinking of the bottle, but he allowed each glass to blossom on its own.
Dessert was a chocolate soufflé with a wonderful contrast between its delicate egg and rich chocolate. A solitary candle signaled our waiter had not forgotten we were there to celebrate a special occasion and the table side presentation of chocolate sauce into the heart of a blossoming soufflé can do nothing but add to the experience. Chrissie finished with a decaf cappuccino and I had a double espresso accompanied by the house port. The espresso was very good. A two-tiered silver tray of petit fours completed our meal.
The check came and I noticed we were charged $90 for the $75 bottle of wine. Since it was Chrissie's thirtieth birthday and because she hates and becomes very uncomfortable when I address issues while we are out, I decided to let it slide (especially when put in the perspective of the total cost of this particular dinner. A fifteen dollar overcharge is harder to overlook on a $130 meal). Since I did not bring it up, I cannot fault the restaurant for the overcharge because I gave them no opportunity to fix the error.
It is clear that dinner was great, but will we go back?
At that price point I believe there are numerous other restaurants I would go to first. If money were no object I could see La Crémaillère joining our steady rotation. I certainly felt the entire experience was worth the price of admission, but it is a show I cannot afford on a regular basis.
La Crémaillère is located at:
46 Bedford-Banksville Road
Bedford, NY 10566
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