The time commitments of the last weeks of school kept Chrissie and me in since the middle of June. We decided to go somewhere celebratory to mark the end of a long year and the beginning of what will hopefully be a rejuvenating summer. Chrissie, armed with her Zagat and a desire to try local fine dining, decided it was time to visit La Panetiere in Rye. I called to make reservations and chose six when offered that or nine o'clock.
La Panetiere is located on a tremendous piece of property by the water on Milton Avenue. We arrived ten minutes early and encountered one of the few missteps of the evening when the valet parking staff was nowhere to be found. I waited for a few minutes, watching the kitchen staff play soccer in the lower lot, before I parked my own car. I understand we were a few minutes early, but I was unsettled to find the staff putting on their ties and jackets as we entered the restaurant. A valet ran to us and claimed he had to park my car. I wasn't sure whether to laugh or be annoyed when I told him that would no longer be necessary. I did not mind taking the early reservation, but I did mind not having the restaurant ready for our arrival.
The interior of the restaurant is very classic. I commented to Chrissie that it seems like a more feminine version of La Cremaillere. They began our meal with bread sticks presented in a Champagne flute. These were fun because they looked to be crunchy, but were in fact flaky and soft. We ordered drinks and slowly other couples made their way in. The waiter brought menus over after letting us linger over drinks for half an hour. I normally enjoy a long cocktail hour, but this made me wonder why I was led to such an early reservation.
The menu has three options. Meals can either be ordered as two or three course dinners or as a six course tasting menu. Chrissie and I, in the spirit of celebration, went with the tasting menu. I ordered mine with the wine pairing.
The meal began with a three shots of chilled soup. From left to right on a platter were a gazpacho, which was well balanced and very good, a cantaloupe soup, which was sweet and fresh, and a pea (I believe it was pea) that we both found bland.
As we had our soups we encountered the second misstep of the evening. We had been the first table seated. We made our reservation more than a week in advance. We arrived at the designated time for our reservation. With all of this in mind, I can't comprehend why we were seated adjacent to both tables of a high school graduation dinner. Two six tops of diners came to celebrate a young man's completion of school and acceptance to Princeton. They were not unruly or rude, but were a party of thirteen split between two tables that happened to both be next to mine. Had we arrived late and it had been the only table in the restaurant I could have overlooked the inter-table conversation and the occasional rump in my face as celebrators mingled in the early minutes of their party, but we were placed where no couple enjoying a romantic meal should have to be seated.
The party eventually settled into two distinct tables and the food that followed helped me forget about the slight, intended or not, that the maitre de had administered. A plate of foie gras and tuna came out that was nearly perfect. The sear on both the fish and the meat was excellently accomplished and the contrast in textures and flavors of the two principal components reset my appetite and appreciation for the restaurant. Chrissie, our resident foie gras expert, held this presentation in very high esteem.
The next dish was a beautiful soft shell crab. Normally I am not much of a fan of the soft shells. I find them more of a curiosity than a delicacy. These crabs were the perfect size to exploit the slight resistance the molted shell gives to the teeth. Barely bigger in body than a half dollar, the single crab on the plate was accompanied by asparagus and a puree whose origins I cannot recall.
A refresher course of passion fruit soup and sorbet was served to cleanse the palate before the main courses, two duck dishes in succession, one a confit of leg and the other a breast, were brought out. The breast was presented first with perfect skin and meat that was cooked just past medium rare and was incredibly succulent. I found myself very impressed by the kitchen's ability to put out perfect sears and crispy skins. The confit that followed was equally impressive. Chrissie and I both thought we would have rather seen the two dishes paired on a plate and followed by a meat course, but we understood what the chef was trying to expose in his back to back duck dishes.
To conclude our meal we both had the souffle. I ordered the Grand Marnier and Chrissie had the chocolate. Both were delicious, perfectly cooked, and incredibly decadent in both flavor and size.
High Points-
Low Points-
Will we go back? We will go back. Despite the few flaws in the front of the house, I found this meal to be one of the best prepared I've had in Westchester. In fact, had we not been seated in a triangle configuration with the two tables from the graduation party I probably would have overlooked parking my own car and the random ramblings of a waiter who might have explained what a duck is had I given him license. I think we will definitely try La Panetiere again in the fall or winter to see what the kitchen does with heartier fare.
La Panetiere is located at:
530 Milton Road
Rye, New York 10580
Sunday, June 29, 2008
La Panetiere
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
QuickBites- June
This month I decided to set a goal for our dining. I wanted to eat out only at neighborhood establishments that promise interesting food. The one objective condition was that the most expensive item on the regular menu could not cost more than thirty dollars. Thinking about the cost of of gas and the eventuality of a down payment for a house, I knew we could choose restaurants that offered a delicious compromise between pub/chain food and those establishments that promise a near fine dining experience.
While our latest experiment has been going on, we at A Man Has to Eat have been out twice to places we frequent with family. Enjoy these QuickBites.Meson Los Espanoles
My aunt and uncle vacation in Spain every year and frequently gravitate to the Spanish culture and cuisine. Since Solera closed the doors to its Irvington location, they have been on a quixotic endeavor to find a replacement in Westchester. Very few establishments that promise authentic Spanish food have been left untested.
Meson Los Espanoles, located on Post Road in White Plains across from the Tango Grill, is one they have found that consistently pleases. While neither as sophisticated nor as progressive as Solera, Meson Los Espanoles offers a traditional Spanish menu in an atmosphere that is conducive to conversation and enjoyment of food (read: Aunt Nancy and Uncle John don't like eating in a place that is too crowded or loud).
Everytime we go someone orders, without fail, the pulpo a la Gallega and the boquerones con pimientos. The pulpo are served thickly sliced over potatoes with olive oil. The boquerones are bleached herring (anchovies) cured in vinegar. Both are a perfect start to a fulfilling meal.
Most of the dishes are grilled or served in a cazuela. The best way to summarize Meson Los Espanoles is as a traditional restaurant that reminds me most of coastal Spanish cooking (though their menu does certainly branch into other Spanish traditions). It doesn't offer the promise of cutting edge Spanish cuisine, but comfortably puts out dishes that replicate the foundation upon which those culinary leaps were built.Encore
It should come as no surprise to anyone who has been reading this blog that my father asked to go to Encore for his Father's Day dinner. I'd been involved in a discussion thread on the trisate board at Chowhound recently whose focus was on places to eat in Larchmont and Mamaroneck. The usual suspects, deservedly so, all came up, but no one mentioned Encore. I threw this gem into the mix and the only person who engaged me wrote about how Le Provencal is better. My take is that Le Provencal and Encore are two very different restaurants. In my opinion, Encore defines bistro dining. That they execute it well only makes me love them more.
Last night's meal was one of the best yet. At our previous visit they were introducing new menu items, one of which was a whole baked snapper. It was just a little under done last time, but I wrote I expected it to be much better when the kitchen had a chance to get used to it. I was correct. The fish was perfectly cooked and the pineapple garnish provided a wonderful acid. Balancing out the dish was a hint of heat that I do not recall last time.
I started my meal with the grilled calamari. My mother enjoyed it last time and wanted to share the dish with me. I agreed because she is my mother and because I had grilled calamari less than a week ago at Solmar and I wanted to compare the two while the flavors and textures were still fresh on the tooth and palate. I'm not sure which flavors I liked more. The Encore plate employs a tremendous amount of garlic in a rich sauce while the Solmar plate utilizes oil and sun dried tomatoes. On Encore's side is the fact that my dish came out fresh from the oven. One of my only complaints about Solmar was my lukewarm appetizer.
Chrissie and my father split, as they usually do, a dozen escargots. I would never order this, but I enjoy having bites of theirs, especially dips of baguette into the buttery cells of the cast iron plate. I'm of the opinion that enough butter and garlic on anything will taste good.
A more pleasant surprise than doneness of my fish was the inclusion and execution of quail as a nightly special on a Monday. Both my parents ordered this dish last night and both of their birds were perfectly cooked. I would have ordered it myself had I not been on a mission to re-evaluate the snapper.
Sunday, May 25, 2008
QuickBites- May
Quick Bites is a new section where I will write about restaurants that we go to all the time or restaurants that, for some reason, I am not writing up in a full review. This month we went back to Encore, had the $99 special at Morton's, and ate at Tandoori.Encore
Encore has unveiled their summer menu. I was very excited to see a whole red snapper. Mine could have cooked for a moment more, but I'm sure by now they've worked the kinks out. We were there for the inaugural service of the new menu. Next time we are there I will certainly try the snapper again and I'm sure it will be perfect. Encore's kitchen is incredibly consistent.Morton's
Morton's tempted our curiosity with a surf and turf dinner for two for $99. I'm usually disappointed by steak houses because I find them to be a pretentious, culinarily boring, and a poor value. The $99 special was enough to get me to try again. The deal included salad, a seafood side, a starch and a vegetable to share, a single cut filet, and a dessert.
The asparagus were incredibly overcooked, the baked potato was fine, as it should be for those prices, and the steaks were over done. My scallop side was also over cooked. Chrissie didn't love the flavor of her crab cake, but she was impressed by the quantity and ratio of crab meat. Chrissie did really enjoy her molten chocolate cake.
Add tax, cocktails, and a bottle of wine and the $99 deal topped out over $200. Great job on their part getting us in. The truly disappointing part of the dinner was that we wanted to like it. The deal runs through the end of June and we love steak. We both wondered if they sent out less than perfect cooking because we were ordering the bargain special.
High points of the night included a sommelier who was pleasant and informative and a waitress who clearly deserved her tip. A low point in staffing was a maitre de who I found condescending.
If you like Morton's, the deal is good. If you, like us, aren't into chain steak houses, I'd be careful not to get drawn in by the promise of an affordable steak house dinner.Tandoori
Last night my aunt and uncle took us to Tandoori in Port Chester. I don't feel that qualified to rate Indian food, but of the Westchester Indian restaurants, I find Tandoori to be one of the most comfortable and consistent. Since I'm not talking about the food I'll critique the staff, which was superb.
The waiters make it their business to know my families drink orders and to remember that my uncle doesn't like to order until he's had his second drink. The one mistake of the evening, when they brought my appetizer out late, was remedied, with no prompting, with another bottle of Taj Mahal beer and coffee and ice cream after dinner.
Please comment on the food if you know Indian and this restaurant.
Friday, April 25, 2008
Rosemary's Restaurant- Las Vegas
Chrissie and I just returned from a spring break trip to Las Vegas. In true A Man Has to Eat fashion, our trip centered more around food than casinos. Arriving late Sunday night, we walked from the Signature end of the MGM Grand to the pedestrian entrance on the strip. The round trip expedition to find two dollar bottles of water might have been a mile.
The next day we rented a car for the explicit purpose of driving to Rosemary's, a restaurant about six miles from the strip. After pricing cabs, we determined it would be make more sense to get a car and do some exploring, including a trip out to the Hoover Dam.
Armed with the Garmin unit that Chrissie got me for my birthday, we staked out the restaurant on the way back to the hotel. Set in a suburban strip mall, Rosemary's is one of the true pleasures of Las Vegas. Zaggat gave them a 29 and the Frommer's guide book touts it as the place to go if you truly appreciate food. That was all the prompting we needed to make our reservations two months in advance.
Arriving for a seven o'clock reservation, we found the restaurant beginning to fill up. The interior was much larger than the shopping center facade suggested and the tables were nicely spread apart, filling three rooms: one in the bar, another adjacent to the open kitchen, and a third, where we ate, that created a hypotenuse between the other two.
While Chrissie was washing up, the waitress presented the menus and told me she'd return as soon as Chrissie did to explain the eating options. Able to read for myself, I outlined the a la carte, three course, and chef's tasting menus to Chrissie before our waitress had a chance to return. We didn't rent a car and plan our day around a meal to miss anything, so we quickly decided that the tasting menu was in order.
The only two missteps of the evening revolved around drinks. Since I was getting the wine pairing with my meal, Chrissie decided to order a half bottle instead of getting wines by the glass. They were out of the one she wanted. Not a big deal.
My mistake was more troubling, but, after realizing what was going on, the waitress fixed everything. I wasn't going to have a martini that night, but the menu described the martinis as a four ounce pour of the premium liquor of your choice in a cocktail glass swirled with vermouth. I was powerless to resist the menu's advertising of classic portion and near Churchillian proportion. Unfortunately, there was an error somewhere along the line and the waitress returned with Chrissie's glass of wine and the glass of champagne meant to accompany my first course. I politely asked her if she had brought the champagne before the cocktail on purpose. For a moment she looked confused, and then she remembered that I had ordered a cocktail. The next couple of minutes where the only stressful ones of the evening. I worried if this was a forecast of what the rest of the evening would be like. The stress continued after she retrieved my drink because I now had a martini and a glass of champagne in front of me and I wasn't sure if kitchen understood that I was having a drink. A five course tasting menu involves careful orchestration between the front and back of the house. My apprehension was relieved when the waitress returned a few minutes later assuring us that the kitchen understood the pace of our meal and taking away my champagne with the promise of a freshened glass to go with the first course. It was a tough five minutes, but I made it (only partially tongue in cheek).
The first course was a caviar dish that was everything a caviar dish should be. A delicate, beautiful, and light plate was presented with traditional components deconstructed in a fashion that made it artistic and easy to eat.
The next two courses highlighted the chef's New Orleans background. Course two was a barbecued shrimp dish served over a blue cheese slaw. It was incredibly interesting, but not very special. Course three was a crispy skinned fish served over a creole sauce boasting tiny rock shrimp. Again, it was tasty, but not special. There were other dishes on the menu I think would better highlight the chef's product. These choices, especially after the classic presentation of a caviar first course left me unable to discern a philosophy behind the tasting menu.
The meat course was anchored by two healthy sized lamb chops fired to a consistent medium rare. After the intense flavors of the previous two dishes, I found the lamb chops to be under seasoned. I don't think I would have felt that way had the menu followed a different progression.
High Points-
Low Points-
Would we go back? If we are ever in Vegas again we will certainly return, but I believe we will order the three course menu that allows you to choose your own dishes. There were aspects of the menu that I would have much preferred to explore over the chef's selections.
Rosemary's Restaurant is located at:
8125 West Sahara Avenue
Las Vegas, Nevada 89117
Sunday, March 9, 2008
QuickBites- March
It has been about two weeks since our last update. In that time we've tried a wine bar for happy hour, gotten Greek takeout, gone to Encore with my father, and had dinner at a neighborhood American place before seeing a show in Tarrytown.
This update will be a summary and not a full review.
Feb. 29- Two weeks ago Chrissie decided that she wanted to try something different for happy hour. We typically go to Pete's Saloon after work on Friday for a few drinks and a bite to eat. This week she convinced us all to try Pour, a wine bar in Mt. Kisco. Pour has a nice atmosphere, fun and fancy small plates and platters, and a large wine list. We tried two hot dishes, the special bruschetta, and a cheese and meat plate to accompany the two wines by the glass Chrissie had and the bottle of Malbec the boys shared. We wanted to stay longer, but the wines were too expensive for a happy hour. I would love to find a wine bar that is interested in cultivating a more middle class clientèle. We stopped at Lefteris II to get Greek takeout and took everyone back to our condo for the rest of the night.
March 6- JP, my father, called last night to invite us to dinner and a jazz concert at SUNY Purchase. We went to his favorite restaraunt, Encore in Larchmont. We typically get to Encore a few times a month and value their bistro menu and consistent kitchen. Clearly others are of the same opinion as my family because the dining room is usually filled every night of the week. I had the cassoulet and Chrissie and JP both had the Chilean sea bass special.
March 8- Last night Chrissie and I had tickets to see a comedy show at the Tarrytown Music Hall. We ate at Jack and Dyl's, a neighborhood restaurant serving traditional American fare. The menu was ambitious for upgraded tavern food and the kitchen couldn't keep up with its promise. I had mussels to start and the duck special. Both were overdone. Chrissie began with a lamb over flatbread appetizer and had the Westchester Magazine recommended short ribs for dinner. She was pleased with the preparation of the lamb, it was well cooked and flavorful, but thought the short ribs were very underseasoned. Judging by how many tables were filled at such an early hour, they must be properly attracting a demographic, but I found the restaurant confused. The menu suggests something more refined, but they were out of Tanqueray, had no espresso machine, and seemed to balance an inexperienced kitchen with large portions. I'd recommend either simplifying the menu or providing more oversight in the kitchen to help marry their philosophy and execution.
This week we have a wine dinner hosted by our favorite wine store, The Wine Professionals, located in North White Plains in the Sir John's Plaza. Carmine and Eric specialize in affordable and interesting wines. They are always tasting multiple bottles on the weekend and they usually have out a dinner ruining spread of cheeses, meats, breads, and the occasional cooked food. They are very helpful and informative and are never pretentious or condescending. It is a great store for neophytes, bargain hunters, and those who like supporting neighborhood shops.
Thursday, February 7, 2008
La Crémaillère Restaurant
Last Saturday Chrissie and I finally tried La Crémaillère.
Typically, if we are going out for French we go to Encore in Larchmont. Less frequently we may also dine at Le Provencal in Mamaroneck, especially if my father wants to gorge on mussels for lunch. We were going to Le Jardin Du Roi for a while, but they pissed me off once with the incredibly unexpected pricing on an appetizer (We will go back. I just need some time). The final reference point I'll be using is the Red Hat Bistro in Irvington (FYI, I liked the old location more). It was Chrissie's thirtieth birthday and she wanted to try something new.
When taking the reservation, the hostess on the phone gave a choice of two seatings for Saturday. We chose the 6:30 and arrived a few minutes early, unsure of what to expect. If nothing else had lived up to expectations, the service alone, from the valet to the uniquely labeled doggie bags waiting by the coat room, was almost worth the price of admission when compared to standard Westchester dining.
We were the first patrons and customers arrived sporadically through the evening, leading me to wish we could have made a reservation for 7:30, the time when we typically choose to eat on a weekend.
We started diner with a round a drinks. I had a gin and Chrissie had a glass of wine. The bread was a sliced country loaf. It was very good and a slight surprise as I was expecting a baguette. It, and the atmosphere, created an ambiance that was both cosmopolitan and provincial. A small quiche with smoked salmon was delivered to the table. I had to ask for the wine list and I am not sure if that is standard practice. It may be because the wine list was the size of a textbook. I found it incredibly overwhelming, especially because I have very little familiarity with pricier French wines.
I asked the waiter for help and he happily obliged, choosing a wine that fit our requests, but more than doubled the cost of our usual strategy. My father, understanding the declining value of a bottle one once it is consumed, taught me to order a less expensive wine in a nice restaurant. His assumption is that the restaurateur and/or chef won't put a dud on their wine list. For the most part, this strategy has served us very well.
The waiter recommended a bottle, whose identifying information I have since forgotten, priced at $75. I normally won't spend too much time discussing cost here, but this becomes relevant for the rest of dinner. I get the approval to spend that much from Chrissie and she says that we shouldn't worry about money tonight because it is her birthday. The waiter quickly backs her up and now he is armed with important information to help make our evening more enjoyable.
On to food. For appetizers Chrissie ordered the foie gras terrine with duck confit, bibb lettuce, and goat cheese. I had the special which was a lobster spring roll. Both appetizers were of a quality and taste to be expected. Neither was sublime, but in no way were they disappointing. As a bonus, the lobster spring rolls were generously portioned.
Shortly after our appetizers were cleared we were brought tea cups containing a solitary ravioli stuffed with duck confit and surrounded by a shallow pool of a very zesty orange sauce. I'm not sure if this was complimentary to help celebrate my wife's birthday or if everyone received it that night. It was tasty, unexpected, and came long enough before our meals that it served to aid in hunger, rather than suppress it.
We both decided to get meat that night. I was going to get the lamb, but let Chrissie order it (which turned out to benefit me). The lamb was perfectly cooked and had the fresh and distinct flavor lamb should have, but Chrissie and I both thought the flavor profile of the dish was flat. There was nothing to elevate the the natural flavor of the lamb and it stood by itself, wonderful, but alone.
I ordered the filet of beef to allow Chrissie to have the lamb. It was excellent. The steak was perfectly cooked. I am very apprehensive about ordering beef (although I do it all the time), especially at high prices because my enjoyment of it can be destroyed by a kitchen that allows a plate to go out off temperature. My steak that night was medium rare at the edges and became slightly rarer with each slice toward the thickest section. The penultimate bite was a delightful balance between rare and medium rare. The flavors on my plate blew me away. I've ordered many a steak in a bistro setting and can honestly say this was one of the top presentations I've had.
It is a too bad Chrissie's lamb didn't delight as much my steak because both dishes were perfectly fired.
The waiter had, thankfully, convinced us to order a tray of pomme frites. At least half of the tables that night ordered the fries that were presented on silver pedestal between patrons. The fries were worth the added calories and not at all out of place.
While we were eating the waiter attentively took care of our wine. I was pleased that he waited until the glasses were virtually empty until he poured another portion of wine. Not only did it extend our drinking of the bottle, but he allowed each glass to blossom on its own.
Dessert was a chocolate soufflé with a wonderful contrast between its delicate egg and rich chocolate. A solitary candle signaled our waiter had not forgotten we were there to celebrate a special occasion and the table side presentation of chocolate sauce into the heart of a blossoming soufflé can do nothing but add to the experience. Chrissie finished with a decaf cappuccino and I had a double espresso accompanied by the house port. The espresso was very good. A two-tiered silver tray of petit fours completed our meal.
The check came and I noticed we were charged $90 for the $75 bottle of wine. Since it was Chrissie's thirtieth birthday and because she hates and becomes very uncomfortable when I address issues while we are out, I decided to let it slide (especially when put in the perspective of the total cost of this particular dinner. A fifteen dollar overcharge is harder to overlook on a $130 meal). Since I did not bring it up, I cannot fault the restaurant for the overcharge because I gave them no opportunity to fix the error.
It is clear that dinner was great, but will we go back?
At that price point I believe there are numerous other restaurants I would go to first. If money were no object I could see La Crémaillère joining our steady rotation. I certainly felt the entire experience was worth the price of admission, but it is a show I cannot afford on a regular basis.
La Crémaillère is located at:
46 Bedford-Banksville Road
Bedford, NY 10566
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