Cafe of Love

Last night we ate at Cafe of Love in Mt. Kisco. Since they don't take reservations for parties smaller than five, Chrissie and I arrived very early in order to ensure a table. The hostess informed us that a table would be ready momentarily and asked if we would like to sit at the bar.

The dining room is small and, at 6:15, was already packed. The bar was friendly and we ordered cocktails. As we ordered our drinks Chrissie noticed another hostess giving our table away. She was apologetic, but our few minutes turned into more than a half an hour. In their defense, a table was offered to us in fifteen minutes, but Chrissie and I decided to wait for a two top that was not flanked on all sides by other tables. The Cafe of Love is loud to begin with and I can imagine the celebratory atmosphere is only increased when a table has no side of relief.

The room itself is very welcoming and blends comforting wood furnishings with modern colors and accents. At this point in the restaurant's life, the bar is probably too large, but I can imagine a time in a few months, or few years if they keep the pace up, when the bar itself could be part of the draw of the location. As it stands now, patrons wait two or three deep at the bar for a table during the peak seating time and I wonder how many more seats could be accommodated by a smaller bar. This also makes me wonder how long the no reservations for parties under five will last. I hope they pay careful attention to their customers and how they dine or the management runs the risk of burning too brightly for a short time and then dying out when a new hot spot opens, taking the fly by night customers who care more about being seen than about food and service.

Over cocktails we discovered the bartender was someone my twin sister had dated briefly at the end of high school. That conversation made the wait for the table less of a burden. Unfortunately, the other bartender managed to drop the cocktail shaker into my martini glass, splashing most of the contents about my lap and chest.

Our motto at A Man Has to Eat is good food trumps all and Chrissie and I were still excited to try the food that has gotten such rave reviews in both the Westchester food press and blogs.

I ordered the signature soup, a harvest puree, because I felt it important to start my dining experience at the root of the restaurant. Cafe of Love spawned from Ladle of Love, a Mt. Kisco lunch place that is renowned for its soups and restaurant quality take out. Knowing this, I felt I would be missing the soul of the dining room offshoot if I oredered otherwise. The soup was delicious, but very heavy. I've been writing this a lot lately, but the soup seemed out of season. I understand that it is a harvest soup, but harvest was months ago and my palate is begging for thinner textures and lighter flavors. While I don't think the harvest soup should be removed from the Ladles of Love menu, I believe that early April should see a new soup featured on the Cafe menu.

Chrissie had the foie gras appetizer. She was neither over or underwhelmed. If you like foie gras as much as my wife does, it is probably worth while. If you like it as much as I do (read- to take a few bites of your wife's, appreciate it, but never order it unless it ia a component of a dish or a course on a tasting menu) then you would be better off looking elsewhere on the menu for an appetizer. When finished with the dish Chrissie was pleased that competent foie gras could be ordered without going to a white table cloth.

Our main courses were both very good. I had the strip steak and the piece itself was magnificent. I was very impressed by the cook's ability to sear a perfect crust on my meat. I ordered medium rare and the mark was missed, but the meat itself withstood the extra cooking and was still succulent. If I ordered the steak there again I would be sure to let the waiter know it is better to err on the side of rare. The steak was served with a trio of dipping sauces, none of which I wound up using. The sauces were interesting, but none were good enough to put on a wonderfully seasoned cut of steak. Chrissie had a piece of fish that was cooked perfectly, but whose flavor may have been slightly overpowered by an essence of smoke.

High Points-

• I can't remember the last time we were so excited to try a Westchester restaurant. I hate to say it, but even we at A Man Has to Eat can be swept up in the buzz of a new place that has instant success.
  
• The steak was a great piece of meat and the perfect sear made me forget it was mostly cooked to medium.
• Chrissie was a big fan of the bread bar. In fact, she returned for a few chunks of cheese to accompany coffee after dinner.
  

Low Points-

• Expensive
• No reservations (Is this the Cheescake Factory?)
• Loud and claustrophobic
  
• I hate to look like I'm out for a freebie, but after giving my table away and then spilling a drink on me you'd think they would at least comp the cocktail. As you read that, keep in mind that I'd rather have a flawless meal than a free glass of gin, but that free glass of gin goes a long way.

Will we go back? Although I clearly stated we were caught up in the buzz of Cafe of Love, I don't think we are returning until that buzz subsides. At the prices paid, I want to be treated to a wonderful evening. I suppose there are people who place a premium on being at the right place with the right people. Chrissie and I are not those people. We place a premium on food, service, and value for the dollar.

I'd like to during the summer, when we have time off, try the restaurant again during the week to see if the experience is more enjoyable. I've read a review that spoke of a black truffle soup topped with a bit of foie gras being presented before the main courses were served. Nothing close to that top notch restaurant experience occurred while we were there.

The saddest part was not the lost table or the spilled drink, it is that the next time we go to Cafe of Love we will not be as excited as were for our first dinner there. It is a rare occasion when we get, after dining in Westchester for over ten years, a true sense of pleasure just from entering an establishment. My advice to the owner of Cafe of Love would be to cultivate the clientèle that longs to eat there over the cohort who longs to be there. The diners will continue to return long after the trendsetters have moved to hipper pastures.

Cafe of Love is located at:
38 East Main Street
Mount Kisco, New York 10549