Iron Horse Grill

At times we overlook the most obvious choices when deciding where to dine. For years we have known about, and eaten around, the Iron Horse Grill in Pleasantville. I can only recall hearing positive feedback about the restaurant, but we always opted for other choices when searching for higher end contemporary American food. The inclusion of Iron Horse in this year's Zagat America's Top Restaurants mandated our first visit.

Located in a converted train station on the outer perimeter of central Pleasantville, the Iron Horse Grill is very easy to get to. Parking is not an issue unless you circle the block quixotically multiple times waiting for a spot to open by the front door. Once we'd resigned ourselves to the lot, we realized it was far closer and easier than we thought.

Forced again into a 6:30 reservation, we were at least not the only people there. In fact, it appears the restaurant caters to early dining. Peak capacity was seen at around seven o'clock and then waned as tables opened up and the room became more intimate. If proximity and noise are issues, I recommend, from our one experience mind you, a later reservation. The room itself is quaint, bordering on tight. The two tops were very close. Chrissie commented that it would be more pleasant to come with another couple because the seating for four is more casually spaced in the interior of the room while the couple seating is lined against a bench with just enough room to squeeze between tables. A cocktail and the added volume of more patrons helped obscure the distinct sounds of conversations coming from our neighbors.

It was a pleasure to have a waiter who was both gregarious and professional. At first I feared he was going to be too personal and taint dinner, but he expertly walked the line between the two personas. Since we were out for both dinner and to determine how accurate the masses were in their very high 27 rating, we asked our waiter about the tasting menu. There are three ways to eat at the Iron Horse Grill. A three course prix fixe and a five course tasting add to the standard dining experience. The waiter asked us the two questions he says he asks of anyone who inquires about the tasting menu. The first was if we trusted him and the chef. The tasting is not only blind, but each diner receives a different dish during each course. I'm still undecided if this is brilliant or too scary for repetition. The second was if we had any food allergies or aversions. We showed our faith in the kitchen by going ahead and ordering the tasting. We also ordered two half bottles of wine, a Chardonnay and a Chateauneuf du Pape, to hopefully complement what would follow.

The meal began with a ramekin portion of beet soup flavored with ginger. Beet soup is not something I would typically order, but it was well executed and the flavor developed with each bite until I found myself enjoying it very much. The first courses were a fig salad and the crisp khaifi shrimp. The fig was served on a bed of bitter greens with melon and ham. The shrimp was wrapped in shredded phyllo, fried, and served with cucumber yogurt salad. The fig salad was an excellent presentation of a first course. It was eclipsed by the perfect textures and interesting flavors of the shrimp dish.

The second course was not as successful. Both the ravioli and the seared scallop were disappointing. The scallop was served with creamed leaks and oyster mushrooms. While the scallop was expertly cooked, I found the flavors of the plate muddled and plain. The ravioli also suffered from a lack of flavor. In the end it was good that the two least successful dishes came out at the same time because these complaints did not resurface during the remainder of the meal.

The fish course brought plates of swordfish and cod. It was at this point I remarked how skilled the cook was. I pride myself on the ability to cook fish. Chrissie usually enjoys the textures and browning of my fish more than a restaurant's (keep in mind I'm cooking for two and can dedicate my entire attention to one task). Iron Horse Grill nailed every fish. In fact, their swordfish could have been the best cooked piece I've ever had. We continued to note a lack of intensity in the flavors. To counter this observation, the flavors of the meats and fish were all true and allowed to anchor the dishes without being overshadowed. We discussed, and continued to discuss in the days after the meal, whether we would rather have perfectly cooked protein that was on the blander side, or overcooked food with intense, bold flavors. I believe it is in the philosophy of the Iron Horse Grill to prepare meals that are excellent and accessible and to use fresh flavors and ingredients. While not risky, the execution, in my opinion, compensates for the vanilla palate.

Lamb chops and duck were served for the meat course. This made me very happy because those are the dishes I was looking at if we had ordered off the menu. Both dishes were cooked to a perfect temperature. The duck's skin was obscured by a glaze, but this was my only complaint about the dish. The lamb was the most tender serving I have had in recent memory. Each bite was buttery smooth but had enough chew to allow the flavors to linger. I might have thought the lamb was overcooked by the color, but to the tooth it was clearly perfect. Again, my compliments go out to whoever in that kitchen is cooking the proteins.

At this point we were incredibly sated. The dainty ladies seated next to us felt compelled to comment to the waiter about how much food the tasting menu brought to our table. I say this to set up how good the desserts were. Chrissie had the blueberry cobbler and I had a peach bread pudding. These typical American desserts were elevated to the level of fine dining and demanded to be eaten. Chrissie usually orders a chocolate based dessert, but after watching, and smelling, the dainty ladies enjoying the cobbler she had to have it. I think if you can change my wife's mind about dessert, especially after eating so many filling courses, you have created a truly tempting dish.

High Points-

• Incredibly professional and friendly waitstaff
• Varied dining options allow you to tailor the experience
• Some of the best cooked fish I've had this year
  
• This is clearly a restaurant that consistently executes its dishes and philosophy
  
• Desserts worth eating

Low Points-

• I usually enjoy more progressive flavors
• Seating for couples is tight
• I'm still undecided on the idea of a blind tasting that brings separate dishes to each diner
  

Will we return- I can easily see the Iron horse Grill becoming the type of restaurant we revisit two or three times a year. I expected the prices to be more expensive, and while they certainly aren't a bargain, they do not go above thirty dollars for the regular menu. While dishes do not go above the thirty dollar ceiling, they can not be had for less than twenty six and the appetizers are approaching entree prices, averaging fifteen dollars. The tasting menu, at $69, is very fair.

It was the overall experience that we enjoyed above any singular component. The chef made the rounds twice, the hostess was welcoming, the waiter was pleasant, the food was well prepared, the atmosphere was appropriate for the food and prices, and the bill was not shockingly expensive.

I'll be keeping watch on their website and we'll return when the summer menu is retired.

Iron Horse Grill is located at:
20 Wheeler Avenue
Pleasantville, New York 10570