After happy hour at Pour a few weeks ago Chrissie and I decided to try some of the other wine bars that have opened in Westchester. Since we were so enamored with the former location of The Red Hat in Irvington, its new occupant, Mima Vinoteca, became the next step in our wine bar dining experiment.
We arrived punctually, during daylight for the first time of the season, for a 6:30 reservation. The physical layout remained very similar in spirit to what we remembered. The brick walls, tiled floor, thick wooden tables, and central bar create an environment that is welcoming, warm, and intimate. Adding to the familiar feeling, we were greeted by one of my former students eating with her family and a teacher from another school district with whom I'd taken a few graduate classes.
The wine list is Italian, encompassing the various regions of the country, and the prices range mostly between forty and one hundred dollars, with a few outliers in the thirties and some rising to the three hundred dollar mark. I would have liked to have seen a few more bottles under forty dollars. It saddens me to think of the United States as a country that understands wine as the intoxicant of the rich. I believe wine merchants, sommeliers, and wine proponents do themselves, and the entire wine community, a disservice when they don't embrace inexperienced drinkers or those with pockets less deep.
To begin, Chrissie had a glass of the house chardonnay. It was complex, with a long finish and a buttery texture. We both found it much fruitier than the California chardonnays she typically drinks. The flavor of apple was very pronounced. I had a Tanqueray martini that was served in a stemless glass. It looked very pretty, but I prefer function to form in my barware. Luckily I finished it quickly enough that I didn't have to worry about my hands warming the cocktail.
Asking the sommelier for help and telling him we were on a budget didn't prove very useful. He directed us toward a $65 bottle that sounded promising and a $35 bottle that sounded too sweet. After determining that we did not want to spend over $50 on an untested wine, we ordered a bottle of the house cabernet sauvignon, Di Majo Norante 2006. It was surprisingly pleasant and had good mouthfeel, flavor, and spice. It could have been a bit bolder, but I was happy we had gotten a wine on the cheap that was enjoyable.
For an appetizer, Chrissie and I split a plate of handmade trecce (little braids) served with egg, black pepper, onion, and smoked bacon. The dish is presented with a beautiful yolk on top that, when broken, combines with the elements to make a luxurious sauce. It was very good and my favorite part of the meal.
For dinner, Chrissie had the lamb chops and I had the skirt steak. Her lamb chops were cooked perfectly. The outer sear formed a perfectly symmetrical layer of flavor surrounding a rare middle. A cross section cut looked like a piece of seared tuna. I found her dish, served with lentils and figs, too hearty for this late in March. In its defense, the lentils were perfectly cooked and, had it been January, I would find the plate very successful. I was also hoping the lamb chop dish would more resemble the one at Zuppa, Mima's sister restaurant in Yonkers.
My skirt steak was a very generous portion, served rolled and plated on its side atop parmigiano mashed potatoes and broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe was more than seared as promised on the menu and was mostly forgettable. The mashed potatoes were very creamy and took on the consistency of a thick sauce. If this was the chef's intent, he did a great job, because they worked well with the steak, both in terms of flavor and feel, but I wouldn't have called them mashed potatoes. The steak itself was delicious. Chrissie found it chewy, but I don't think she has ever commented positively on the texture of skirt steak. The flavor was very present, with an almost Latino bite and spice, probably from the peppedew, and I enjoyed it more than Chrissie's lamb.
For dessert we ordered a plate of three cheeses off the dinner menu. The cheeses, parmigiano reggiano, gorgonazola piccante, and taleggio, were nicely portioned and interesting. I had an espresso and then a glass of brachetto d'acqui and we called it a night.
High points- Our waiter, Pablo, was fantastic. He had no problem turning an entree into an appetizer, he immediately summoned the sommelier when he could not answer a wine question, and he asked me when I would like my espresso served because he noticed I was still finishing a glass of wine. A friendly, competent, and attentive waiter adds so much to the enjoyment of a meal.
The food was good and Chrissie and I both got the sense that the kitchen has a very consistent output.
The dining room is perfect for a neighborhood bistro or wine bar.
That they specialize in Italian wines makes me confident the wines that populate the list have been carefully selected.
Low points- While the wine list is impressive to look at, I longed for more choices at an affordable price point.
There were too many specials to not have a printed list.
Will we go back? The dinner menu has enough small plates, including the meat and cheese plate, to warrant a trip back for an intimate after work drink and light meal. For a full dinner Chrissie and I both agree that the food was good enough to rate a second visit, but not exceptional enough to displace other restaurants on our to try list. If our next visit, hopefully after the winter menu has been retired, is as successful as our last, Mima's could make the rotation.
Mima Vinoteca is located at:
63 Main Street
Irvington, NY 10533
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