A Man Has to Eat came into existence almost a year ago as a way for my wife and me to better remember meals we had. Although I shy away from the foodie label, those who know Chrissie and me were always asking for dinner recommendations. The blog format began as a personal journal and I had no expectation that anyone outside of my family and friends would ever discover its existence.
To my surprise and delight readers began stumbling upon, and actually reading, my tiny little corner of the internet. It has given me great pleasure to serve and entertain those who have enjoyed my writing and it was educational and interesting to look at food and the dining industry from a critical perspective.
We have cut back on our dining, but not nearly as much as my lack of writing suggests. The fact that there has been no entry in so long signifies a waning interest on my part to continue updating. This lack of interest comes from me wanting to go back to a time when dining didn't involve deconstructing every aspect of the meal for analysis.
If we have a meal that is great or an experience that is disappointing enough to warrant a warning I intend to write about it, but I no longer intend to write up each new restaurant we visit.
Thank you to everyone who has spent some time here and used A Man Has to Eat as either a resource or for entertainment.
Thanks and Credit-
Some A Man Has to Eat Statistics and Facts
Enjoy the New Year, support your favorite restaurants, try a new one when you can, and spread the word about what you like.
-James
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Closing up shop for awhile
Sunday, November 30, 2008
Nessa
I feel like each of the last few reviews I've done has started with an apology for posting so infrequently. I'm sure you're all feeling the pinch in one way or another. Since a man has to eat, we've been out, but mostly to places we know and appreciate. It has become difficult to gamble money on the untested, especially after getting the last quarterly mailing for my 403B.
We've been driving by Nessa on the way home from Costco for quite some time now and we decided the positive reviews earned them a spot in our new restaurant queue. Nessa is located on the tail end of Main Street in Port Chester. They have valet parking, but we got very lucky with a spot across the street.
Our evening began on a low note. We had a reservation and the room was practically empty, but the hostess decided to seat Chrissie and me between the kitchen and an open door. After politely asking for a better table she sat us behind the hostess station. In their slight defense (I do mean slight), the dining room was completely filled by the time we left, but you should never seat a couple with a reservation in the worst seats of an empty dining room. I told Chrissie to not let the hostess taint my opinion of the restaurant and we ordered drinks from a friendly waitress.
The friendly waitress failed to mention that the house Chardonnay Chrissie ordered was a $17 glass of wine. There has to be a fail safe mechanism for drinkers. When we eat out and I order a Tanqueray and Chrissie orders a glass of wine I expect to pay around ten dollars, give or take, for mine and a little less for Chrissie's. To charge seventeen dollars for a standard wine order is to take advantage of a customer who trusts the house bottles are chosen for both drinking characteristics and for price.
We didn't yet know about the entree priced glass of wine when the waitress returned to explain that the chef requests all orders be complete before submission. She also told us that there were no substitutions allowed. I asked about specials and she said there were none because the chef wants to put out his best and most consistent work. I can understand this. I really can. The back of the house in a popular restaurant is chaotic and succeeds or fails on the delicate balance between artistic endeavor and scientific timing. We put in a complete order that began with bruschetta, appetizers, and entrees.
Our thinking was, after the emphatic speech from the friendly waitress, that the meal would be properly paced. We thought that was why the chef took such pains to train the waitstaff to articulate his culinary philosophy. It came as a great shock to me when the bruschetta and the appetizers were brought to the table at the same time. More surprising was that I had to ask for our bottle of wine, even though both of us had finished our cocktails long before the table topping presentation of plates had arrived.
The bruschetta were fine. They would have been better as a pre-appetizer as the waitress promised when she told us we had to order complete meals. Chrissie ordered the salmon and I had the prosciutto with figs. I actually liked Chrissie's more. It tasted very fresh and fishy. She thought it was too acidic and the salmon was lost in the mix. She thought mine was a nice mix of sweet and savory. I thought it was too busy. Had these come out before our appetizers I would have written that we should have switched plates, but the sense of urgency placed on us by the delivery of four simultaneous plates ruined my appreciation of these dishes.
Chrissie ordered the beef carpaccio. The meat was fine. We both thought too much was going on in the dish. Served with marinated artichokes, the beef gets lost. I imagine it being an excellent introductory dish for those afraid to try carpaccio. For the indoctrinated, the loss of beef focus turns the dish into a carnivore's salad. I ordered the grilled octopus, expecting a plate of grilled octopus. I was very disappointed when presented with a cold octopus salad. The octopus bordered between rubbery and grainy and were barely pleasurable to eat, and the dish itself, served in a giant bed of frisee, should have been labeled a salad and cut in price by a almost a third. In my opinion, price structure revolves around product cost, preparation cost, and profit. Going into entrees, the prep cook had done everything we'd eaten and fire had blessed nothing (I know Chrissie ordered a cold dish, but my chilled grilled octopus more than allows my statement).
Looking around the room between courses I began to understand what was happening. I almost felt bad for the chef. The diners weren't the ones we see in proven establishments, great dives, or in the fine dining restaurants we like to go to celebrate life's pleasures. They were the breed that follows the trend. Chrissie and I had a conversation about the blessings and the curses these people bring to a place. We spoke about the paid bills that are wonderful and we spoke about the attitude of owners and chefs that must certainly be born when an establishment gets picked before its time. It must be very difficult for them to not understand they are riding a wave and that these patrons will eventually leave them for whatever new restaurant the movers and shakers want to tell their friends they ate at. That leaves the people who love food and dining to fill a restaurant and if we are disappointed a room will not stay filled for long.
I was prepared for the entrees to disappoint and I was worried about what I would write. In almost a year I have never given a completely bad review. Chrissie's dish was a disappointment. Her stuffed eggplant was bland and boring. It was incredibly under salted and had no value except as a dish to appease unsuspecting vegetarians.
My dish; however, was one of the best plates of chicken I've ever had. It blew my mind how I could hate everything else about my meal and love the chicken so much that I think about going back for that one dish. This chicken was perfect. The skin was beautifully crisp, the meat was juicy and tender, the flavor profile was deep and balanced. The chicken at Nessa was a lifeboat in a sea of complacency.
Unfortunately, it was not enough to balance out the rest of the meal and we decided to skip desert, not because we were stuffed but because we didn't want to spend any more money there.
Highs
Lows
Will we go back? No. Not any time soon. We at A Man Has to Eat have always been about value, whether paying five or five hundred dollars for our meal. I found very little value to the dining experience at Nessa. In fact, I was disappointed by almost every aspect of my meal. The hostess, the waitress, and the kitchen all failed to live up to expectations. I'm amazed that they are a In Town Westchester Magazine editor's pick and that all of their other reviews are so flattering. Either my experience brought together the worst of all possible outcomes or people are giving this place a bye because they don't want to offend their neighbors who rave about it. With the exception of the wonderful chicken, I can think of nothing positive to write about our dinner there.
Nessa is located at:
325 North Main Street
Port Chester, New York 10573
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Espana
Ever since Solera closed the doors to its Westchester outpost, Chrissie and I have been attempting to fill the void left by our favorite Spanish restaurant. We've kept track of all the restaurants that purport to serve tapas. We've eaten from the low end to the high end and we've tried both the traditional and the progressive. Some have come very close, but none have lived up to the overall experience at Solera. Recently, we tried Espana, the fairly new tapas restaurant in Larchmont. Espana, located in the space formerly inhabited by the Larchmont Oyster House, has gotten some great press by both the professional reviewers and the lay eaters and we decided to once more try to recreate the past.
I'll begin with the vast wine list that represents the various wine regions of Spain. One of my favorite memories of our trip to Spain involves buying, in the supermarket, a few bottles of five dollar wine each morning to accompany the day. The wine you can drink in Spain for under ten dollars is far superior to the cheap wines available in the United States. Unfortunately, the wallet friendly price of domestic Spanish wine is lost in translation during its voyage to American drinkers. The wine list at Espana, while comprehensive and interesting, seems on the expensive side and does not represent the value we love at A Man Has to Eat. We got a bottle anyway.
We decided to take a three course approach through the evening, sampling a variety of dishes from both the tapas and appetizer menus. We couldn't resist beginning our meal with the jamon special of the evening and a plate of boquerones. The Iberian black footed pig, available for the first time in the Untied States in our very own Westchester, costs as much as a dinner plate, but we decided, after watching Alton Brown speak so frequently about the pleasures of the jamon produced by the acorn eating swine, to try it despite the cost per slice. It was worth trying once. Its texture was impossibly both smooth and firm. Its taste subtle and nuanced. It was difficult to show restraint and not eat it like a piece of prosciutto. However much I rave, Chrissie and I were both in agreement that we would prefer to order regular jamon next time and save the the extra money for another dish.
The boquerones were meatier and fresher tasting than the thin, completely bleached, and very pickled versions that typically arrive in a typical tapas presentation. Chrissie liked the Espana take better. I called it a draw, slightly missing the stronger tart, but appreciating how clearly the flavor of the fish came through.
We finished the dishes and decided to go hot for the next course. Since we were eating comparatively, we had to try the pulpo a la gallega, which is a staple of our tapas dining. Chrissie has been on an egg kick lately, so she was delighted to find an egg preparation as part of the daily menu.
We are hard to impress when it comes to octopus. So many places don't give it the attention it deserves and then put out a plate of substandard food to a customer they hope doesn't know any better. This is not the case at Espana. The pulpo was sublime. The egg dish, on the hand, was confusing. The egg was properly cooked and the vegetables were tasty, but it lacked the sense of excitement the other dishes had. Philosophically I understand its inclusion. If I were truly going out for a drink and snack to hold me over until a late dinner then this would be a perfect dish. Conversely, if I were ending a night of drinking and wanted some protein then it would also be perfect. As it was served, I don't quite understand the circumstance in which the chef envisions this plate being ordered.
We went for heavier dishes to conclude the meal, ordering canalons de carn and a foie gras dish. Both were flavorful, interesting, and hearty, leaving no room for dessert. Sated, we ordered coffee and decided to return another time to either explore the rest of the small plates menu or to see what the kitchen puts out as a prepared plate.
Highs-
Lows-
Will we go back? With so much left to try, we will definitely go back. Espana has the best tapas oriented menu we've eaten in a long time. I look forward to satisfying Spanish cravings at Espana for many years. I only hope other diners continue to find the value in a two hundred dollar tapas dinner during our current economic climate.
Espana is located at:
147 Larchmont Avenue
Larchmont, New York 10538
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Chutney Masala
One of my favorite nights of the year is when the volleyball team I coach plays Sleepy Hollow because it is the only game I can get my wife to to attend. I'm sure the only reason she attends is because it gives her a chance to work to some neurotic hour without my condemnation and because we go out for a midweek dinner. This year we decided to try the new Indian place in Irvington, Chutney Masala.
Located over the train tracks in the building that formerly housed Flirt, Chutney Masala finds itself in good company with One across the street and The Red Hat a short stroll away. There is something about a properly proportioned bistro that I like more than any other dining room. I immediately felt comfortable in Chutney Masala. While I would assume Chrisse would find the room cold, she agreed with my assessment. The brick walls, square wood tables, and well placed photography create an atmosphere that is both refined and meant for food and drink. The only aspect of the room I did not like was the backless seat I was originally seated in. I didn't think I needed a back, but before I'd finished my cocktail I opted out and asked to switch to a full chair.
Making the meal more fun was being greeted by two former students in the roles of hostess and waitress. After shortly catching up we ordered drinks and I felt a little naughty for imbibing on a school night.
Since it was a week night, we split one appetizer, the lamb samosa. The samosa is one of Chrissie's favorites and since we usually order a plate, it allows us a starting point for comparison. The shell was flaky and thicker than most we have tried, but what separated this samosa from the others was the sublime filling. The spices in the lamb married for a balanced delight. We were thouroughly impressed and eager to try the main courses.
Chrissie orded the keema matar masala, a chopped lamb dish with peas. Like the filling of the samosa, the lamb was wonderful and exotic, but in no way inaccesible for anyone who enjoys flavors. I had the Goan shrimp, a slightly spicy dish in a traditional curry. The dish started with a decent amount of heat that I amped up by eating some of the whole chiles it contained. The flavor profile was rounded out by a small handful of bay leaves.
We both agreed that it was some of the best Indian food we have tried. Of greater interest is the menu itself. It seems the typical Indian restaurant manages its menu in the mix and match fashion. Chutney Masala has a menu that offers the instantly recognizable, but it also includes choices for the more adventurous or for those better versed in Indian cuisine.
Highs-
Lows-
Will we go back? In a heart beat. We really like the idea of an Indian restaurant that presents itself as a bistro and not a lunch trap for those who are sick of the deli and the Chinese restaurant. The food was fantastic, I completely approve of the design and menu philosophies, and they were wise enough to employ one of my all time favorite students.
Chutney Masala is located at:
4 West Main Street
Irvington, New York 10533
Saturday, September 6, 2008
Zuppa update
We were recently at Zuppa Restaurant for a bachelorette dinner. It was my first time going back since writing about it in February (click here to read the full review). Since there were a dozen of us at the table I can't speak to all of the plates, but I can write about how impressed I was with the coordination between the kitchen and the front of the house. Considering we were a twelve top on a Saturday night, they managed our table with the same facility as if we'd been a party of four. The pacing was perfect. We never felt rushed or delayed. More importantly, the food was all properly cooked. Fish, lamb, pasta, it didn't matter. It says something about a restaurant when they don't rest on a guaranteed tip from what they could easily view as one time diners.
Monday, September 1, 2008
Crabtree's Kittle House
Chrissie finished her last teaching class ever this summer. To celebrate, my Uncle John wanted to take us somewhere she could indulge. Those new to this blog are probably unfamiliar with Uncle John and his culinary influence on my family. Instead of writing about it again, if you are interested click here to read about him. He wanted very badly to take us to Monteverde at Oldstone Manor to sate Chrissie's appetite for foie gras, but he discovered that it is currently not on the menu. After a little research on the internet he settled on Crabtree's Kittle House, a restaurant he and my aunt used to go to quite often, but hadn't been to in years, because they offer a trio of foie gras appetizer.
Our reservation was for Saturday night and we were disappointed to read on the website that the tasting menu is offered only Sunday though Thursday. The restaurant itself is located off of route 117 in Chappaqua in a renovated white mansion. Chrissie and I had been once before, but only for brunch. Our impression that it caters to an older crowd was confirmed by the clientele populating the dining room in advance of our 7:30 reservation. As a couple who are usually in bed long before midnight, the thought of eating with quiet refined diners excites me more than a raucous dining room populated with loud Westchester yuppies.
We were seated at a nice window table overlooking the lawn and garden. After the first round of cocktails were delivered we began checking out the menu. To our surprise and delight the tasting menu was offered. I don't know if the website is incorrect or if the kitchen anticipated a slow late summer night. Either way, we were all in agreement to order the chef's menu with the wine pairing. Since the whole point of choosing the Kittle House was to try their foie three ways appetizer we asked if the menu could be supplemented with an additional course. The chef obliged and our meal began with an amuse of cold summer soup.
The first course of the meal was poached lobster served with polenta and a coriander sauce. The lobster was perfectly poached and portioned. I was surprised at how good the dish was. We've had quite a few tasting menus this year and most of them were significantly more expensive than the Kittle House, especially when the wine pairing is factored in. We discussed for a quite some time why we had not been there to eat yet and what a bargain it would turn out to be if the rest of the dishes were as pleasing.
The fish course was halibut served with fingerling potatoes and bluefoot mushrooms. One of my favorite things to eat is a fish that is properly cooked and is served with cispy skin. The fish was excellent.
The foie gras came out between the fish and the poultry courses. My favorite presentation was the brulee. On paper I thought I would like the skewered lobes more, but in reality it was my least favorite that evening. When we go back I'll have to try the dish again and determine if it was my palate or the preparation itself that went against my typical expectations. The third style was a mousse accompanied by a vanilla and pear relish. This was also very good.
Our sixth course interlude over, the chef's progression began again with a grilled quail dish. By this time we had cemented our view that the Kittle House truly is a gem. I easily admit that it doesn't have the movie set splendor of Daniel, the army of waiters, captains, and busboys of Le Bernardin, the young money excitement of Jean-Georges, or even the niche market exclusivity of Blue Hill at Stone Barns. What the Kittle House offers is very good food ten minutes from my house that is well cooked, properly portioned, and presented.
The meat dish of the evening was a sirloin with a garlic and herb crust. Again, it was perfectly cooked. There was not one misstep the entire evening. Not one problem with the reservation, the front of the house, the food, or other diners. As we waited for dessert our conversation turned to the value of having a restaurant like this so close by. Chrissie and I don't mind going into Manhattan, but after the hassles of driving (parking and limiting alcohol), taking the train, or arranging for a place to crash, it seems like such a production. Factor in that our last Manhattan dinner was almost as much as a mortgage payment and I am inspired to find more places like the Kittle House.
Dessert was a fair presentation of selections from the menu. As someone who doesn't care that much for dessert, I do not know how much can be read into my ambivalence. The house did send out an extra dessert for the table. I'm not sure if was compliments of the chef or if they had an extra. Either way, I enjoyed the chocolate gift, an oozing mess of Valhrona chocolate wrapped in a thin pastry skin. Rather than traditional desserts I'd rather see the choice of cheese and a few petite fours at no additional charge for those of us who don't have a raging sweet tooth.
High Points-
Low Points-
Will we go back? Certainly. The food, the ease of reservations, the location, and the value we perceived mandate we provide patronage. I can't think of the last time we ate a meal at this price point or with these culinary aspirations that didn't offer something to complain about- be it a snooty waiter, an overcooked course, or dish that didn't work. I only hope that I leave the Kittle House next time nearly as pleased as I was this time.
Crabtree's Kittle House is located at:
11 Kittle Road
Chappaqua, New York 10514
Saturday, August 30, 2008
QuickBites- August
Our dedication to writing about reasonably priced Westchester restaurants took a hiatus this summer when we blew our dining budget with two dinners. Our trip to Craft for Cara's birthday and an anniversary dinner at Daniel meant we've been eating at home a lot this August. With the school year starting and paychecks coming in again, we are excited to restart our narrative descriptions of the Westchester dining scene. August's installment of QuickBites summarizes our anniversary dinner, a meal out with the Journal News' Rockland restaurant reviewers, and a summer ending appetizers only dinner at Half Moon.
Daniel
For our fifth wedding anniversary Chrissie and I wanted to try something opulent and excessive. After narrowing our choices we settled on Daniel. We'd never eaten at any of Daniel Boulud's establishments and the pictures on the website suited what we envisioned for a very special anniversary date. To help us make the choice, the restaurant would be closing the next day for six weeks for a redesign in anticipation of their tenth anniversary. There was something perfect about us and the restaurant both celebrating milestones and starting new phases.
As we exited our cab and walked down the stairs into the massive foyer I was dwarfed by the scale of the restaurant. A gentleman opened the door, asked if we had reservations, and escorted us to the hostess desk. The hostess guided us to a table overlooking a dining room that felt reminiscent of a movie scene. We at A Man Has Eat are not easily impressed by fancy dining rooms and large fleets of waiters, but Daniel was the most overwhelming room we'd been in a long time.
The six course tasting menu offered two choices for each course. Not by design, Chrissie and I each chose the opposite dish. This led to one of two low points of the evening. Our waiter, upon hearing we were each ordering one of the two choices left the table before finding out which dish we'd each like. This confused the back waiter and led to a problem when the dessert courses had different wine pairings. The captain initially poured me a glass of wine to go with the chocolate-prailine cremeux Chrissie was having. When he realized what was going on he left the wine for Chrissie and immediately retrieved the appropriate wine for my mango based dish.
The other troubling spot of the evening came when our first course arrived before I was half way through my cocktail. The captain came by to see if everything was o.k. because we weren't eating. When I asked if there was a rush for the table he apologized, informed us that he would tell the kitchen to slow down our ticket, and assuaged my fears by generously refilling my wine tasting when we began the first course.
Fortunately, the rest of our experience at Daniel was perfect. The pacing, the cooking, and the dishes cemented a sublime anniversary experience. We chatted with the captain about the renovations as we took care of the check. He suggested we come back when the room was finished in six weeks. We joked that it would probably be another five years before we were able to return.
Priya Indian Cuisine
I woke up one day this summer to an email from Deven Black, the Rockland restaurant reviewer for the Journal News, asking if the Chrissie I write about was the same one he went to graduate school with. She was, and after a few email exchanges we made a date to meet for dinner at Priya, an Indian restaurant in Suffern.
Deven and his wife Jill share the byline and responsibilities that go into crafting the newspaper reviews. It was fascinating for me to find out what goes on behind the scenes of a print review and to learn how the Blacks wound up at the Journal News. Chrissie had a great time reconnecting with a classmate.
Priya presented an interesting Indian menu. The number of seafood dishes led to a detailed discussion with the manager about the influences on the menu and the geography behind the restaurants cooking. My ability to assess Indian food is still in its infancy, but Chrissie and I both liked the food. A low would be the overcooked chicken in the appetizer sampler and a high for me would be the balanced heat in my lamb Vindaloo. If we lived closer, Chrissie and I both agree that we would try Priya again.
Half Moon
To celebrate the end of summer, Chrissie called for an appetizers only dinner on the water at Half Moon. Our intention was to blend an extended happy hour with a gluttonous tasting of as many small plates as we could eat/afford. I am writing about Half Moon in summary instead of a full review because it is owned by the family of a student whose been in a number of my classes.
The restaurant is located in the same space as the old Chart House, but that is where the similarities end. Extensive work was done in the dining room and kitchen to create a new space that does more than offer terrific views of the Hudson.
We began our meal with an assortment of ceviches. The table found the scallop with fennel, oranges, bell pepper, and mint to be our favorite.
We continued to work our way through most of the first page of the menu ordering 3 more rounds of food. Since we didn't order any entrees I can't say for sure what goes on in the kitchen, but the huge assortment of appetizers and the view make Half Moon ideal for tapas-ish dining. Two standouts from our meal were the fried Ipswich clams (we had to order a second basket) and the lamb ribs.
It is too bad they don't open the kitchen and bar earlier on Fridays so like minded eaters can take advantage of the sun and share plates after work before the dinner crowd shows up and the dining room gets busy.
Monday, July 28, 2008
Craft
Long before Top Chef, when Chrissie and I were living in a tiny three room cottage in West Harrison, a cookbook appeared on the Border's shelf that spoke directly to my developing culinary aspirations. Think Like a Chef was important to me because it is less a compilation of recipes and more a statement of philosophy. I distinctly recall reading the author's preface and narratives twice before looking at the recipes.
Since winning his first James Beard Awards his work at the Gramercy Tavern and for his cookbook, Tom Colicchio has gone on to become a fully branded celebrity chef. Along with being the head judge on Top Chef, his Craft and Craftsteak restaurants have taken root in some of America's premier culinary hot spots.
After our terrific experience at Perilla this winter, it was no surprise to me that Cara wanted to try Craft for her birthday this summer.
The dining room is incredibly modern. Its opulence comes from a liberal use of contrasting woods, lighting that is both romantic and masculine, and an architectural curve that softens the industrial layout. The floor plan is fairly genius and, from my vantage point, I could not find a bad table.
After a terrific amuse, the menus arrived on single sided placards that allow all items to be seen at once. This is important because at Craft dining is family style. There are no plated dishes on the menu. Each diner chooses dishes and sides and these are placed in proximity to the orderer, but are intended for the entire party to share. This is perfect if you have a finicky eater in your group. Meals can be tailored to avoid flavors and textures one might find offensive. It was my least favorite part of the meal. Instead of ordering whatever I was in the mood for, I felt compelled to do my part to keep the plates balanced.
We began the meal with cocktails and wine. The tables each have a drawer that slides out to the the server for a simple, yet incredibly effective, staging platform. The bottle of wine Chrissie's glass was poured from temporarily resided on this platform and the ceremony helped temper the price of the pour. I can't imagine why more restaurants do not employ such a useful and impressive device.
There were two low points of the evening and the first involved the sommelier. The wine list is immense, covering more than twenty pages. It is also expensive. The sommelier recognized our frustration as we struggled to find a bottle we would all enjoy and the we could afford. I explained our predicament, made a clear point of our price restrictions, and asked about two specific bottles. She made little to no mention of the bottles we were interested in and started selling wines that were twice as expensive. In case she had misunderstood I clearly explained we were there for the food and were not interested in spending that much on a bottle of wine. She then became a bit of a bully and got insistent on her selections. Feeling cheap and ignorant, I almost folded, but I kept my composure and told her we would discuss it further and thanked her for her time. We wound up ordering a bottle of Catena Malbec that we had initially inquired about. It would have done wonders for that five minute cross section of dinner had she simply said the wine would be perfect for our price point or told us why we would best be served elsewhere on the list.
We were in good company that night and I quickly forgot about the sommelier. Our first course was presented. I ordered the roasted quail and found it delicious. The girls, who both got tiny quail legs as their portion, were not impressed. It made me wonder about the whole family style concept. If my quail dish wasn't designed for sharing, there must be other dishes that don't divide well also. Cara's crispy bacon dish, on the other hand, was clearly designed for sharing. Inch square cubes of bacon were an essay on the various textures and flavors that can be composed with a single piece of bacon. Brian ordered the Wagyu carpaccio. It was decadent and flavorful. The best appetizer at the table was Chrissie's foie gras. I can often take or leave foie gras and leave it to Chrissie to enjoy. This piece was generous, perfectly seared, and accompanied with an incredibly complementary sauce. I made the mistake of cutting myself a thin slice as her plate went around expecting to take another later. There was no later.
The girls both ordered the dry aged sirloin for dinner. Because Cara ordered hers medium and Chrissie requested medium rare, these were almost two different meals. Chrissie's was just under medium rare and melted in the mouth. Cara's was just past medium and had developed a delicious sear that highlighted the sauce. Brian ordered the beef short ribs which came as a delicate portion served in a small bowl. The flavor on the short ribs was intense. The line between beef and supporting ingredient was negligible. Each bite was interesting and rewarding. With all of that beef at the table I ordered seafood. I could not have asked for better scallops. The sear was thick on one side, yet the scallop retained a perfect translucence at center. Again, my dish seemed the least compatible for family style dining. My four scallops were quickly consumed and the dish was gone, leaving me to scavenge off of everyone else's plates for the remainder of dinner.
Along with the main courses, the waitstaff suggests each person orders a side. We had the wild spinach that was served slightly creamed, sugar snap peas that were taken just beyond raw and were superb, a polenta that was fine, and corn and bacon risotto that stole the side show. I think a side per person might be over kill. We would have been just as sated with three.
Dessert is ordered in a similar a la carte fashion. Established combinations of a pastry base, fruit, and ice cream are offered, but dinners are free to mix and match to create their own individual plates. We ordered a serving of doughnuts with blackberries and vanilla ice cream. The doughnuts came with three great dipping sauces and did not require the extra sides we ordered. For the sake of experimenting, we also ordered a chocolate tart off of the prepared dessert list. It was good, but I didn't understand it as the signature chocolate dish.
Lastly, we ordered a cheese plate to go with coffee and after dinner drinks. This is when the second misstep of the evening occurred. The timing of the cheese, when compared with impeccable timing of the rest of the meal, was off. We soon discovered why when our server was surrounded by a manager and more experienced cheese server. His instructors were correcting him and prompting him through the cheese service. I don't think anyone else at the table minded, but I was offended. They should be training him in the back and should not release him to the floor until he is adequately prepared. At Friday's when a new waiter walks around with an experienced server I don't mind. At Craft on a Saturday I feel the covenant between the front of the house and the customer has been broken when I have to be the on the receiving end of someone's training. Had they asked if we minded or if they had offered to comp the plate, or even a portion of the plate, I would not have minded, but they did neither.
High Points-
Low points-
Will we go back? As fans of Top Chef, we had a great time checking out Colicchio's restaurant. Without the affiliation I don't know that we would have been drawn to Craft. For the prices at Craft I would prefer composed meals and an incredibly consistent front of the house. If we do go back it will definitely be for the tasting menu. Craft is one of the only restaurants I have ever seen where the tasting menu, due to the mix and match nature of the regular menu, is less expensive.
On a side note, Grub Street has reported that Tom Colicchio is planning to get back in the kitchen in a new restaurant that will plate composed dishes from a small fixed menu. This sounds more my speed.
Craft is located at:
43 East 19th Street
New York, New York 10003
Friday, July 25, 2008
Finger Lakes- Keuka
It was a chaotic spring for us both this year. Chrissie was finishing up her tenure year at school and I was a part of the varsity lacrosse coaching staff for the first time. We only had the time and energy to take a short trip to Las Vegas. We thought we might get away to somewhere more exotic during the summer, but the cheap vacations of two years ago were no where to be found. Instead of looking to Europe, the islands, or even more distant states, Chrissie suggested the Finger Lakes. We'd had such a good time in Napa a few years ago tasting the wine and exploring the fine dining that we thought we might recreate the experience in our own backyard.
The Drive
We left early on Sunday morning and took 87 to 17. The drive on 17 was surprisingly pleasant. Not only did this two lane highway travel at near interstate speeds, but the other drivers showed a lane discipline not often seen in the suburbs. Rarely did a slow driver hang up the left lane. Instead, they drove in a fashion more similar to Europe, politely moving right when they saw faster traffic approaching in their rear view mirrors. I couldn't have been more pleased. Interestingly, I found that the closer we got to Binghamton, the less aware the drivers became of their surroundings. I have a new respect for rural New Yorkers, especially when it comes to road civility.
The drive itself took just over four hours and we arrived in Hammondsport around noon.
Keuka Lake
Chrissie chose Keuka Lake because she read it was the prettiest of the Finger Lakes and because it is home to two of the most recommended vintners on our list. Keuka is one of the smaller of the lakes and driving from tip to tip takes just under half an hour. Unlike wide highway along the larger Seneca next door, the road runs within throwing distance of the water, hugging the shoreline and curving to maintain its safe distance. Keuka is also unique in its offering of lodging. To stay on this lake you either rent a cottage or choose one of the small country inns.
The Wines
New York State wine has come a long way. The Finger Lakes are best known for their Rieslings, but these have certainly matured into more subtle and crafted versions of the sweet offerings I thought of before this trip. While still high on the sugar content, the better wines are drier, more complex, and use the sugar to allow the taste of the fruit to shine through rather than to make an easy drinking wine that more closely resembles grape juice. The primary red we found was Pinot Noir, but the majority of Finger Lake reds were watery and one dimensional.
Possibly the best delight of the trip was that the tasting rooms were either free or charged a nominal two dollars to try flights of five to seven wines.
Our favorite winery was easily Dr. Frank. They produce wines that most resemble the classic European and Californian varieties. They also produce some of the only truly palatable red wines we tasted during our stay.
We liked Dr. Frank so much we brought home a few bottles:
2000 Blanc de Blancs Finger Lakes Champagne- This is a very good sparkling wine done in the traditional methode champenoise. This wine is crisp and delicate and a worthwhile purchase to showcase how a New York can compete with a French.
2006 Gewurztraminer- Sweet, spicy, and interesting. One of our friends requested a bottle so we also got one for ourselves.
2006 Rkatsiteli- Sweet and dry at the same time. This was a well balanced wine we enjoyed during the tasting. The unfamiliar name also helped in this purchase. I will have fun telling friends that I just opened a bottle of Rkatsiteli.
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon- While we didn't try this one, I trusted the gentleman who was pouring our tastes and talking about the wines when he said this is a great cellaring wine. We'll toss it in the cabinet and drink it in a few years and have a chance to reminisce about this vacation.
Here's a picture of the vineyards overlooking Keuka Lake taken from Dr. Frank's:
Other wineries we enjoyed on Keuka were:
We also drove out to eastern Seneca for a few tastes. The two we enjoyed most were:
that houses a spartan, yet elegant, tasting room. Their better than average wine, scenic drive to the top of the ridge, and proximity to Fox Run make them a must stop if you are in that section of Seneca.
If you are on Keuka, I compel you to visit the Pleasant Valley Wine Company. This recommendation has nothing to do with fine wine and everything to do with New York State history. Pleasant Valley was the first bonded winery in the United States and the tour provides a window into the past. The tasting room, now mostly dark and desolate, resonates with the ghosts of imbibers from the years of the Civil War to the 1950s. To demonstrate how far NY wines have come you only have to taste the samplings of Pleasant Valley. These relic wines offer a baseline so genuine I can't believe they are still in production.
The Food
We ate three meals on Keuaka, one of which I wish I could reproduce in Westchester and one of which I wish I could trade back for two hours of my life. The best dining we found on Keuka, which is limited in its dining choices by size and location, was the Pleasant Valley Inn (not to be confused with the above mentioned Pleasant Valley Wine Company). We ate there on the recommendation of Debby, our inn keeper, and were clearly not disappointed.
Only open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, we had to eat there on our first day at the lake. I would have returned each subsequent night had they been open. To begin the meal we both ordered special appetizers. Chrissie had a delicate fried cheese plate and I ate a small presentation of Basque sardines (which our waitress kept referring to as Italian when she explained the specials. Instead of being put off, I found it slightly endearing).
The dinner options were very straightforward, but the lack of haute cuisine was not felt when the perfect cooking came from the kitchen. Chrissie and I both ordered steaks. I had my favorite, the NY strip, and Chrissie had the tenderloin Tuscana, two medallions of filet layered with grilled portobello and served with Gorgonzola butter. I ordered mine medium rare and Chrissie hers rare. Both orders were fired beyond expectation. We tend find that when Chrissie orders rare at home it is typically cooked too far or left blue. I was halfway through my steak when I told Chrissie I wanted to take the chef home with us.
However much we loved the food, I hate to admit the moment I really fell in love with the Pleasant Valley Inn was when the check came. We had drinks, a bottle of wine, appetizers, steaks, coffee, a Port, and a shared dessert and the grand total was one hundred and twenty-two dollars. I was nearly giddy when I calculated the tip. I suppose the only flaw of the evening was the lack of espresso. A high point, exclusive of the perfect steaks, was the bottle of Villa Mt Eden cab. The wine drank like a much more expensive bottle and I hope to find it at home to add to the cabinet.
The counterpoint to this meal came when we ate at the Esperanza Mansion. The only redeeming quality to this dinner was the view of the lake. We were greeted in the dining room by a family of flies loudly seeking a flaw in the window. I let that slide because it is such a beautiful old building and the menu, which I'd seen in some wineries, promised a nice meal. The promises of the menu were not kept by the kitchen. Chrissie's carpaccio resembled a not so thinly sliced not so well executed piece of rare prime rib. It was fairly foul. My scallops were texturally sound, but lacked any browning. It got worse during the main courses when both Chrissie's tuna and my chicken were incredibly overcooked. The entire experience was so consistently bad that we didn't even order drinks after our first round in an effort to expedite our departure and to keep money out of their coffers. Sadly, this meal, with no bottle of wine, no coffee, and no after dinner drinks was the same price as the far superior Pleasant Valley Inn.
I do have to say that we did thoroughly enjoy the boat tour of the lake offered by the Esperanza. The vessel was majestic and storied, the captain was informative and professional, and the crew were attentive to any needs.
The Black Sheep Inn
Chrissie found this inn in Frommer's where it is listed as a value and rated three stars. We've had good luck with similarly reviewed establishments and Chrissie sent them off an email. Later that same evening we got a call from Debbie, the innkeep/chef, and she and Chrissie began planning our trip.
The Black Sheep is located in an historic octagonal house that Debbie and her husband Marc painstakingly and accurately restored over a six year period.
Debbie, a graduate from the New England Culinary Institute and a former Cleveland caterer, greets her arriving guests in the inn driveway and immediately creates a sense of welcome.
The common areas of the inn are comfortable and, more importantly, usable. An inviting living room and dining 
area are on the first floor and the second floor houses a central den stocked with books, magazines, games, and puzzles. The high ceiling of this central room is capped with a stunning cupola adorned with a painted compass that takes full advantage of the daylight and is illuminated at night.
The inn's philosophy is very green and sustainable. They make their own soaps, belong to the farming collective, and cook locally and organically. Debbie is well known in Hammondsport for her cooking and this was clearly exhibited by the breakfasts she creatively put together each morning.
The Black Sheep Inn is not open to the public for dining, but, if you are a guest, Debbie will work with you to create three to five course meals that she serves in the former billiard room of the house. Chrissie and I opted for this on our final night. Debbie's blend of farm fresh food, health conscious cooking, formal culinary training, and years of experience properly ended our home state excursion to sample the wines and foods of Finger Lakes.
Friday, July 18, 2008
Iron Horse Grill
At times we overlook the most obvious choices when deciding where to dine. For years we have known about, and eaten around, the Iron Horse Grill in Pleasantville. I can only recall hearing positive feedback about the restaurant, but we always opted for other choices when searching for higher end contemporary American food. The inclusion of Iron Horse in this year's Zagat America's Top Restaurants mandated our first visit.
Located in a converted train station on the outer perimeter of central Pleasantville, the Iron Horse Grill is very easy to get to. Parking is not an issue unless you circle the block quixotically multiple times waiting for a spot to open by the front door. Once we'd resigned ourselves to the lot, we realized it was far closer and easier than we thought.
Forced again into a 6:30 reservation, we were at least not the only people there. In fact, it appears the restaurant caters to early dining. Peak capacity was seen at around seven o'clock and then waned as tables opened up and the room became more intimate. If proximity and noise are issues, I recommend, from our one experience mind you, a later reservation. The room itself is quaint, bordering on tight. The two tops were very close. Chrissie commented that it would be more pleasant to come with another couple because the seating for four is more casually spaced in the interior of the room while the couple seating is lined against a bench with just enough room to squeeze between tables. A cocktail and the added volume of more patrons helped obscure the distinct sounds of conversations coming from our neighbors.
It was a pleasure to have a waiter who was both gregarious and professional. At first I feared he was going to be too personal and taint dinner, but he expertly walked the line between the two personas. Since we were out for both dinner and to determine how accurate the masses were in their very high 27 rating, we asked our waiter about the tasting menu. There are three ways to eat at the Iron Horse Grill. A three course prix fixe and a five course tasting add to the standard dining experience. The waiter asked us the two questions he says he asks of anyone who inquires about the tasting menu. The first was if we trusted him and the chef. The tasting is not only blind, but each diner receives a different dish during each course. I'm still undecided if this is brilliant or too scary for repetition. The second was if we had any food allergies or aversions. We showed our faith in the kitchen by going ahead and ordering the tasting. We also ordered two half bottles of wine, a Chardonnay and a Chateauneuf du Pape, to hopefully complement what would follow.
The meal began with a ramekin portion of beet soup flavored with ginger. Beet soup is not something I would typically order, but it was well executed and the flavor developed with each bite until I found myself enjoying it very much. The first courses were a fig salad and the crisp khaifi shrimp. The fig was served on a bed of bitter greens with melon and ham. The shrimp was wrapped in shredded phyllo, fried, and served with cucumber yogurt salad. The fig salad was an excellent presentation of a first course. It was eclipsed by the perfect textures and interesting flavors of the shrimp dish.
The second course was not as successful. Both the ravioli and the seared scallop were disappointing. The scallop was served with creamed leaks and oyster mushrooms. While the scallop was expertly cooked, I found the flavors of the plate muddled and plain. The ravioli also suffered from a lack of flavor. In the end it was good that the two least successful dishes came out at the same time because these complaints did not resurface during the remainder of the meal.
The fish course brought plates of swordfish and cod. It was at this point I remarked how skilled the cook was. I pride myself on the ability to cook fish. Chrissie usually enjoys the textures and browning of my fish more than a restaurant's (keep in mind I'm cooking for two and can dedicate my entire attention to one task). Iron Horse Grill nailed every fish. In fact, their swordfish could have been the best cooked piece I've ever had. We continued to note a lack of intensity in the flavors. To counter this observation, the flavors of the meats and fish were all true and allowed to anchor the dishes without being overshadowed. We discussed, and continued to discuss in the days after the meal, whether we would rather have perfectly cooked protein that was on the blander side, or overcooked food with intense, bold flavors. I believe it is in the philosophy of the Iron Horse Grill to prepare meals that are excellent and accessible and to use fresh flavors and ingredients. While not risky, the execution, in my opinion, compensates for the vanilla palate.
Lamb chops and duck were served for the meat course. This made me very happy because those are the dishes I was looking at if we had ordered off the menu. Both dishes were cooked to a perfect temperature. The duck's skin was obscured by a glaze, but this was my only complaint about the dish. The lamb was the most tender serving I have had in recent memory. Each bite was buttery smooth but had enough chew to allow the flavors to linger. I might have thought the lamb was overcooked by the color, but to the tooth it was clearly perfect. Again, my compliments go out to whoever in that kitchen is cooking the proteins.
At this point we were incredibly sated. The dainty ladies seated next to us felt compelled to comment to the waiter about how much food the tasting menu brought to our table. I say this to set up how good the desserts were. Chrissie had the blueberry cobbler and I had a peach bread pudding. These typical American desserts were elevated to the level of fine dining and demanded to be eaten. Chrissie usually orders a chocolate based dessert, but after watching, and smelling, the dainty ladies enjoying the cobbler she had to have it. I think if you can change my wife's mind about dessert, especially after eating so many filling courses, you have created a truly tempting dish.
High Points-
Low Points-
Will we return- I can easily see the Iron horse Grill becoming the type of restaurant we revisit two or three times a year. I expected the prices to be more expensive, and while they certainly aren't a bargain, they do not go above thirty dollars for the regular menu. While dishes do not go above the thirty dollar ceiling, they can not be had for less than twenty six and the appetizers are approaching entree prices, averaging fifteen dollars. The tasting menu, at $69, is very fair.
It was the overall experience that we enjoyed above any singular component. The chef made the rounds twice, the hostess was welcoming, the waiter was pleasant, the food was well prepared, the atmosphere was appropriate for the food and prices, and the bill was not shockingly expensive.
I'll be keeping watch on their website and we'll return when the summer menu is retired.
Iron Horse Grill is located at:
20 Wheeler Avenue
Pleasantville, New York 10570
Sunday, June 29, 2008
La Panetiere
The time commitments of the last weeks of school kept Chrissie and me in since the middle of June. We decided to go somewhere celebratory to mark the end of a long year and the beginning of what will hopefully be a rejuvenating summer. Chrissie, armed with her Zagat and a desire to try local fine dining, decided it was time to visit La Panetiere in Rye. I called to make reservations and chose six when offered that or nine o'clock.
La Panetiere is located on a tremendous piece of property by the water on Milton Avenue. We arrived ten minutes early and encountered one of the few missteps of the evening when the valet parking staff was nowhere to be found. I waited for a few minutes, watching the kitchen staff play soccer in the lower lot, before I parked my own car. I understand we were a few minutes early, but I was unsettled to find the staff putting on their ties and jackets as we entered the restaurant. A valet ran to us and claimed he had to park my car. I wasn't sure whether to laugh or be annoyed when I told him that would no longer be necessary. I did not mind taking the early reservation, but I did mind not having the restaurant ready for our arrival.
The interior of the restaurant is very classic. I commented to Chrissie that it seems like a more feminine version of La Cremaillere. They began our meal with bread sticks presented in a Champagne flute. These were fun because they looked to be crunchy, but were in fact flaky and soft. We ordered drinks and slowly other couples made their way in. The waiter brought menus over after letting us linger over drinks for half an hour. I normally enjoy a long cocktail hour, but this made me wonder why I was led to such an early reservation.
The menu has three options. Meals can either be ordered as two or three course dinners or as a six course tasting menu. Chrissie and I, in the spirit of celebration, went with the tasting menu. I ordered mine with the wine pairing.
The meal began with a three shots of chilled soup. From left to right on a platter were a gazpacho, which was well balanced and very good, a cantaloupe soup, which was sweet and fresh, and a pea (I believe it was pea) that we both found bland.
As we had our soups we encountered the second misstep of the evening. We had been the first table seated. We made our reservation more than a week in advance. We arrived at the designated time for our reservation. With all of this in mind, I can't comprehend why we were seated adjacent to both tables of a high school graduation dinner. Two six tops of diners came to celebrate a young man's completion of school and acceptance to Princeton. They were not unruly or rude, but were a party of thirteen split between two tables that happened to both be next to mine. Had we arrived late and it had been the only table in the restaurant I could have overlooked the inter-table conversation and the occasional rump in my face as celebrators mingled in the early minutes of their party, but we were placed where no couple enjoying a romantic meal should have to be seated.
The party eventually settled into two distinct tables and the food that followed helped me forget about the slight, intended or not, that the maitre de had administered. A plate of foie gras and tuna came out that was nearly perfect. The sear on both the fish and the meat was excellently accomplished and the contrast in textures and flavors of the two principal components reset my appetite and appreciation for the restaurant. Chrissie, our resident foie gras expert, held this presentation in very high esteem.
The next dish was a beautiful soft shell crab. Normally I am not much of a fan of the soft shells. I find them more of a curiosity than a delicacy. These crabs were the perfect size to exploit the slight resistance the molted shell gives to the teeth. Barely bigger in body than a half dollar, the single crab on the plate was accompanied by asparagus and a puree whose origins I cannot recall.
A refresher course of passion fruit soup and sorbet was served to cleanse the palate before the main courses, two duck dishes in succession, one a confit of leg and the other a breast, were brought out. The breast was presented first with perfect skin and meat that was cooked just past medium rare and was incredibly succulent. I found myself very impressed by the kitchen's ability to put out perfect sears and crispy skins. The confit that followed was equally impressive. Chrissie and I both thought we would have rather seen the two dishes paired on a plate and followed by a meat course, but we understood what the chef was trying to expose in his back to back duck dishes.
To conclude our meal we both had the souffle. I ordered the Grand Marnier and Chrissie had the chocolate. Both were delicious, perfectly cooked, and incredibly decadent in both flavor and size.
High Points-
Low Points-
Will we go back? We will go back. Despite the few flaws in the front of the house, I found this meal to be one of the best prepared I've had in Westchester. In fact, had we not been seated in a triangle configuration with the two tables from the graduation party I probably would have overlooked parking my own car and the random ramblings of a waiter who might have explained what a duck is had I given him license. I think we will definitely try La Panetiere again in the fall or winter to see what the kitchen does with heartier fare.
La Panetiere is located at:
530 Milton Road
Rye, New York 10580
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
QuickBites- June
This month I decided to set a goal for our dining. I wanted to eat out only at neighborhood establishments that promise interesting food. The one objective condition was that the most expensive item on the regular menu could not cost more than thirty dollars. Thinking about the cost of of gas and the eventuality of a down payment for a house, I knew we could choose restaurants that offered a delicious compromise between pub/chain food and those establishments that promise a near fine dining experience.
While our latest experiment has been going on, we at A Man Has to Eat have been out twice to places we frequent with family. Enjoy these QuickBites.Meson Los Espanoles
My aunt and uncle vacation in Spain every year and frequently gravitate to the Spanish culture and cuisine. Since Solera closed the doors to its Irvington location, they have been on a quixotic endeavor to find a replacement in Westchester. Very few establishments that promise authentic Spanish food have been left untested.
Meson Los Espanoles, located on Post Road in White Plains across from the Tango Grill, is one they have found that consistently pleases. While neither as sophisticated nor as progressive as Solera, Meson Los Espanoles offers a traditional Spanish menu in an atmosphere that is conducive to conversation and enjoyment of food (read: Aunt Nancy and Uncle John don't like eating in a place that is too crowded or loud).
Everytime we go someone orders, without fail, the pulpo a la Gallega and the boquerones con pimientos. The pulpo are served thickly sliced over potatoes with olive oil. The boquerones are bleached herring (anchovies) cured in vinegar. Both are a perfect start to a fulfilling meal.
Most of the dishes are grilled or served in a cazuela. The best way to summarize Meson Los Espanoles is as a traditional restaurant that reminds me most of coastal Spanish cooking (though their menu does certainly branch into other Spanish traditions). It doesn't offer the promise of cutting edge Spanish cuisine, but comfortably puts out dishes that replicate the foundation upon which those culinary leaps were built.Encore
It should come as no surprise to anyone who has been reading this blog that my father asked to go to Encore for his Father's Day dinner. I'd been involved in a discussion thread on the trisate board at Chowhound recently whose focus was on places to eat in Larchmont and Mamaroneck. The usual suspects, deservedly so, all came up, but no one mentioned Encore. I threw this gem into the mix and the only person who engaged me wrote about how Le Provencal is better. My take is that Le Provencal and Encore are two very different restaurants. In my opinion, Encore defines bistro dining. That they execute it well only makes me love them more.
Last night's meal was one of the best yet. At our previous visit they were introducing new menu items, one of which was a whole baked snapper. It was just a little under done last time, but I wrote I expected it to be much better when the kitchen had a chance to get used to it. I was correct. The fish was perfectly cooked and the pineapple garnish provided a wonderful acid. Balancing out the dish was a hint of heat that I do not recall last time.
I started my meal with the grilled calamari. My mother enjoyed it last time and wanted to share the dish with me. I agreed because she is my mother and because I had grilled calamari less than a week ago at Solmar and I wanted to compare the two while the flavors and textures were still fresh on the tooth and palate. I'm not sure which flavors I liked more. The Encore plate employs a tremendous amount of garlic in a rich sauce while the Solmar plate utilizes oil and sun dried tomatoes. On Encore's side is the fact that my dish came out fresh from the oven. One of my only complaints about Solmar was my lukewarm appetizer.
Chrissie and my father split, as they usually do, a dozen escargots. I would never order this, but I enjoy having bites of theirs, especially dips of baguette into the buttery cells of the cast iron plate. I'm of the opinion that enough butter and garlic on anything will taste good.
A more pleasant surprise than doneness of my fish was the inclusion and execution of quail as a nightly special on a Monday. Both my parents ordered this dish last night and both of their birds were perfectly cooked. I would have ordered it myself had I not been on a mission to re-evaluate the snapper.
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Solmar
On Thursday we had to go to an eight o'clock ceremony in Tarrytown so we decided to try Solmar, the new Portuguese/Brazilian restaurant. Solmar fits our latest search for neighborhood dining that is affordable and interesting. Located across the street from the Tarrytown Music Hall and next door to Chiboust, Solmar offers a menu that never breaks twenty five dollars.
The only disappointment of the evening was that they do not yet have a liquor license. I learned this the hard way when I ordered a cocktail and was met with an apologetic denial. After ordering soft drinks and waters we took a look at the menu. As we ate warm, crusty bread and contemplated dishes, a tray of cheese and olives were brought to the table.
My mother-in-law had a portobello mushrooms with hearts of palm. She was pleased to discover that it was a warm appetizer, sauteed in garlic and oil. Chrissie had codfish fritters that were served over a small salad. I ordered grilled calamari that were prepared with minced sun dried tomatoes. I discovered that I rather enjoy my sun dried tomatoes finely chopped. It adds the essential flavor and gives an interesting texture, but avoids the overpowering bite I sometimes feel sun dried tomatoes add to a dish when not properly balanced. So far all of the portions were generous and the food was good. The surprise appetizer of the evening was my father-in-law's. His shrimp and mussel soup was excellent and by far the best tasting dish at the table. The perfect amount of spice, acid, and ocean were blended in this tomato based soup. I usually don't order soup, but each time Larry does I enjoy his. I may have to start doing so more often.
Chrissie ordered the feijoada completa for her main course which, according to the menu, is Brazil's national dish. Before the table side presentation of the her pork, sausage, and black bean stew, a tray of accompaniments arrived that included sauteed collard greens, vinaigrette, some sort of grain meal (I wasn't paying close enough attention), and a citrus spread. The stew was delivered to the table in clay pot from which the waiter served Chrissie's initial portion. The covered pot was left table side to keep the second portion warm. Chrissie really liked the dish.
My mother-in-law had the special of the evening, a stuffed chicken. I found that I liked her dish the best. It had an incredible flavor that I was surprised by because it did not look or sound as interesting as it tasted.
I was pleased to find Solmar has grilled sardines as a regular item on their menu. When we went to Spain a few years ago I fell in love with sardines. The restaurant at the beach we went to had a grill set up in the back and the duties of grill tender and parking lot attendant were taken on by a gifted cook who grilled his sardines on stakes standing almost perpendicular to the coals. Five large fish were served with this dish. I'm not sure if the serving size was tremendous or if the lack of alcohol allowed my body to better tell me I'd been sated, but I could not finish the plate.
I usually don't take environmental considerations into mind when eating out, but I wish more places would offer fish lower on the food chain like sardines. So many of the big fish that restaurants serve are being over fished or are farmed and a pale imitation of the wild variation. I imagine it will take the typical American diner some time before he is comfortable with whole fish on his plate that he must fillet to enjoy. When this practice becomes more acceptable a new spectrum of aquatic bounty awaits.
The stuffed sole my father-in-law had was very well executed. I'm not a fan of stuffed sole. I find the stuffing, lemon, and butter make the fish an afterthought. I could tell his dish was properly made, it just wasn't the version that turns me into the guy who orders it next time.
High Points-
Low Points-
Will we go back? We will definitely go back. When Chrissie and I were first dating we would go to Caravela and Aquario all the time. Solmar offers a more casual alternative for the flavors that are a foundation of our relationship. Chrissie was the most excited I've seen her about a restaurant in a while. Since Thursday she has been raving about the food, service, and philosophy of Solmar. Next time we're going to a show at the Music Hall, Solmar will be a top contender for pre-theater dining.
Solmar is located at:
12 Main Street
Tarrytown, New York 10591
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Haven (formerly Frodo's)
My advice, in an April review, to the owner of Cafe of Love was to cultivate a clientèle that longs to eat there over the cohort who longs to be there. Stephen, a friend of ours, asked if there are restaurants in Westchester that do what I suggested. The criteria became to find restaurants that have longevity based on their food, pricing, and pleasant atmosphere. Food and atmosphere are subjective, but price and longevity are quantifiable. To qualify for this review a restaurant had to have been in business for three years to demonstrate an ability to consistently draw customers through varying economies and food trends. Further, the most expensive entree on the regular menu could not exceed thirty dollars. The hunt was on.
A family friend recently recommended Haven. We made our reservation and went out tonight to begin proving my thesis that a restaurant can attract a strong customer base, not with a gimmicky no reservations policy and a bar that secretly wants to be a nightclub, but with inspiring food at reasonable prices.
Chrissie and I never bothered to investigate this restaurant when it was Frodo's. The moniker was off putting for us and suggested a theme restaurant to me. It appears, if reports of the food being the same are true, that I would have been incorrect.
The dining room is long and narrow with a bench reaching down the length of one wall. Tables for two are set, but can be brought together to accommodate larger parties. The design scheme blends rustic and upscale to create a very pleasing room. My only complaint is that the tables are too close for this type of dining. When we arrived at six thirty this was not an issue. As our entrees were served and eight o'clock approached, the room was nearly at capacity and proximity was more of a problem. By the time we left, I felt intimately acquainted with the party to my left.
For appetizers, Chrissie ordered the macaroni and cheese and I had mussels. Chrissie's mac and cheese was baked to a nice crust and served with truffle oil. It was a very nice dish and she was able to take a nice portion home to enjoy tomorrow. My mussels were also very generously portioned. The preparation of the day was with corn and bacon. The mussels were perfectly cooked. So far, in both of our opinions, Haven was performing flawlessly. To add to this performance, between courses the kitchen sent out a complimentary taste of their goat cheese dumplings that Chrissie had been deciding between when we ordered.
We were both very hungry last night and we both wanted to see how the chef dealt with meat. Chrissie ordered the rack of lamb. She raved about it, saying it was incredibly tender and juicy, and that the preparation allowed the flavor of the lamb to shine in the dish. Her only comlpaint with her meal was her burnt polenta.
I had the grilled filet. It was less successful than Chrissie's lamb. The meat itself had a very supple mouthfeel, but the char was too thick and black, ruining some bites. Curiously, the chef chose to pre-slice the steak. I think it is because he serves the meat over a frittata and wants to create a sense of presentation. I would have preferred the frittata, which was just ok, on the side and my steak whole so I could cut slices to a thickness of my choice. In his defense, the meat was clearly rested before he cut.
We both got the important sense that this is kitchen that puts out consistent food. I believe the burnt char on my steak is probably as bad as it gets, and considering the meat was still cooked to my order, the mistake wasn't that big a deal.
The desserts on paper weren't as inspiring as the rest of the menu. Chrissie and I had coffee and split a piece of peanut butter pie just to add conclusion to the meal.
High Points-
Low Points-
Will we go back? We will definitely go back. Haven perfectly fits the bill of a neighborhood restaurant that strives for excellence in the kitchen. While I believe our main courses, for what they were, could have been a few dollars cheaper, I did not feel cheated in any way. Haven is an excellent counterpoint to the Cafe of Love. I must say that Cafe of Love puts out a menu that is clearly a notch above Haven's, but I left Cafe of Love feeling troubled by their missteps. I left Haven thinking the chef probably had a flare up on the grill and that the waitress let Chrissie's coffee sit too long while she made my espresso. I think the pretensions of the restaurants explains the difference in my attitude.
Next time we go I anticipate trying either the fish or the daily ravioli.
Haven is located at:
472 Bedford Road
Pleasantville, NY 10570
Sunday, May 25, 2008
QuickBites- May
Quick Bites is a new section where I will write about restaurants that we go to all the time or restaurants that, for some reason, I am not writing up in a full review. This month we went back to Encore, had the $99 special at Morton's, and ate at Tandoori.Encore
Encore has unveiled their summer menu. I was very excited to see a whole red snapper. Mine could have cooked for a moment more, but I'm sure by now they've worked the kinks out. We were there for the inaugural service of the new menu. Next time we are there I will certainly try the snapper again and I'm sure it will be perfect. Encore's kitchen is incredibly consistent.Morton's
Morton's tempted our curiosity with a surf and turf dinner for two for $99. I'm usually disappointed by steak houses because I find them to be a pretentious, culinarily boring, and a poor value. The $99 special was enough to get me to try again. The deal included salad, a seafood side, a starch and a vegetable to share, a single cut filet, and a dessert.
The asparagus were incredibly overcooked, the baked potato was fine, as it should be for those prices, and the steaks were over done. My scallop side was also over cooked. Chrissie didn't love the flavor of her crab cake, but she was impressed by the quantity and ratio of crab meat. Chrissie did really enjoy her molten chocolate cake.
Add tax, cocktails, and a bottle of wine and the $99 deal topped out over $200. Great job on their part getting us in. The truly disappointing part of the dinner was that we wanted to like it. The deal runs through the end of June and we love steak. We both wondered if they sent out less than perfect cooking because we were ordering the bargain special.
High points of the night included a sommelier who was pleasant and informative and a waitress who clearly deserved her tip. A low point in staffing was a maitre de who I found condescending.
If you like Morton's, the deal is good. If you, like us, aren't into chain steak houses, I'd be careful not to get drawn in by the promise of an affordable steak house dinner.Tandoori
Last night my aunt and uncle took us to Tandoori in Port Chester. I don't feel that qualified to rate Indian food, but of the Westchester Indian restaurants, I find Tandoori to be one of the most comfortable and consistent. Since I'm not talking about the food I'll critique the staff, which was superb.
The waiters make it their business to know my families drink orders and to remember that my uncle doesn't like to order until he's had his second drink. The one mistake of the evening, when they brought my appetizer out late, was remedied, with no prompting, with another bottle of Taj Mahal beer and coffee and ice cream after dinner.
Please comment on the food if you know Indian and this restaurant.
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Antipasti
Chrissie wanted to go and I didn't. Chrissie needed to complete her Westchester wine bar trifecta. I would have been happy going back to Mima if what she wanted was a restaurant that caters to wine drinkers. Chrissie's opinion is infinitely more important than mine when making reservations so we called for an early Saturday reservation because I'd read that the dining room packs up very quickly at the prime seating hour.
I'd been apprehensive to go to Antipasti because I've seen both very positive and very negative reviews about their food. It appeared to me that Antipasti was going to be a love it or hate establishment.
We arrived early for our six thirty reservation and were greeted by a flock of valets to park our car. Antipasti is located on the business end of North Broadway in White Plains, making the valet parking a necessity. Necessity aside, it is still convenient and a nice touch.
Entering the restaurant you are greeted by a design scheme that is very metropolitan. Red accent lights illuminate an exciting bar. On the opposite side is an antipasto bar with its variety of dishes on display. A short stairway to the dining room rises next to a small glass room with hanging cured meats and cheeses on display. Chrissie commented that it would not have looked out of place in Manhattan. I replied that this is the changing face of a White Plains. Not only is White Plains the cosmopolitan city center of Westchester, it is where I was raised and I find the transformation over the last fifteen years incredible.
We were greeted by a hostess who told us they were setting our table and invited us to sit at the bar. There was no one setting our table. She was clearly directing us to the bar in order to get us to start drinking. If only she had known that is what we intended to do she could have asked us if we'd like to begin our evening at the bar instead of employing upsell subterfuge.
The bar and the bartender were easily highlights of the evening. He not only mixed a nice martini, but he went through the entire performance of icing the glass and filling it with cold water in preparation for the cocktail. Chrissie's excellent glass of Californian house Chardonay was served in a quartino decanter. The bartender poured small servings into her glass and attentively refreshed when needed. We made sure to pay our tab at the bar to ensure he got his fair portion of the tip.
The dining room was very large. We were seated at a four top close to the entrance and more than one other couple noted the size upon entering. We weren't sure if we were going to order in our regular progression or vary it up and have a meal of small plates. We wound up going an entirely different route than either of us expected. I had an appetizer, Chrissie had two antipasto dishes, and we both ordered pasta, something that rarely occurs when we are out to eat. I think we were both frightened by the prices of the regular entrees. The menu only had two dishes under thirty dollars. The pasta decision was our way of testing the waters.
I began my meal with the ragu of grilled polpo and manila clams. The pasta and the broth were outstanding. The polpo was acceptable. The octopus was almost at the correct texture, but didn't add much to the dish. My suggestion, if cooking it properly is too difficult for the kitchen, is to leave it out of the dish. As a sixteen dollar appetizer, almost the cost of a full entree, I want my pulpo to be the highlight of a dish, not a curiosity for the uninitiated or a price inflater for the menu. That said, the rest of the dish was very successful and I enjoyed the textures and flavors of everything else in the dish very much.
Chrissie's small antipasto dishes arrived in the traditional fashion before my appetizer. She ordered the fried rice balls and the bruschetta del giorno. Chrissie raved about the bruschetta and how fresh the flavors were. I agreed. We both found the rice balls to be very bland. The tomato sauce they were served with did little to enhance the flavor and was the only component that could be tasted when employed.
Overall, we were so far enjoying the food. More impressive to me was how efficient and attentive the waitstaff was. I ordered a bottle of Malbec from the by the glass section of the wine menu. When the maitre de/sommelier came to open it he said, "I see you've ordered a bottle of our Malbec." When I answered that you've got love Argentina right now for wine value he made me feel informed rather than cheap.
I liked the wine list. It has many choices by the glass, covers the globe, and hits price points, with a varied selection, between thirty and three hundred. Our Malbec was tasty, affordable, and went nicely with what we were eating.
For pasta entrees I ordered the saffron mafalda and Chrissie had the egg garganelli. The pastas were both executed very nicely. Chrissie really liked the seasoning on her dish, which means others might find it a little salty. My dish was very earthy and lacked the vibrant flavor profiles of my appetizer. It was still tasty, but it did not inspire plate cleaning. The slow cooked duck in my pasta dish could have been any meat, but I still enjoyed it.
The portions were the perfect size for eating, but small for pasta dishes that break the twenty dollar price point. I would have liked to have some to take home.
For dessert we employed the maitre de again to help us select three chesses. He wanted to help, but I don't think he knew the cheeses well because he came armed with a prewritten selection instead of taking us through the various cheeses on the menu. I don't fault him for that at all. At least he had the foresight to ask someone for advice before coming to the table. We'd told him when he opened our wine that we'd be asking for his help with cheese at the end of our meal.
High points-
Low Points-
Will we go back? I doubt we will return to Antipasti. It isn't that anything was bad. It is more that the value ratio was off. While I wasn't offended leaving my two hundred dollars at the table, I felt it could have been better spent somewhere else. If you like modern takes on traditional Italian cooking, you are into trying new wines, and you feel at home in a swanky establishment, then Antipasti might be a great choice for a night out. We at A Man Has to Eat don't subscribe to those criteria strongly enough to go back.
Antipasti is located at:
1 North Broadway
White Plains, New York 10601
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Brio Ristorante
After a few days of detoxing with steamed vegetables and salads, we were ready to venture again into the world of restaurant dining. Chrissie has wanted to try Brio in Mt. Kisco for some time and we took last night's spring break ending double date to finally go.
The worst part of the evening was being seated next to a table with children. I normally would ask to be reseated, but I liked the location of our table and I felt confident the family would not last very long. They wound up staying a few minutes longer than I had judged and they were a little louder than I had predicted, but they were soon gone and everything else about dinner requires no complaining. Interestingly, another family with children was seated in the same table. The difference was these children were even better mannered than your friends representing A Man Has to Eat.
We decided to, in the fashion of Mediterranean dining, order a number of appetizers for the table. The dishes were somewhere in between the tapas Chrissie and I have experienced in Spain and Spanish restaurants and the American appetizer. In general, I was very pleased with the portion, presentation, and flavor of the appetizers. Chrissie and Brian both had a glass of the house chardonnay and they liked it very much. I had my traditional Tanqueray martini. The waiter immediately noticed a short pour and, with no prodding, rectified it by topping off my drink.
The table shared Turkish cigars (lamb and cheese pastry rolls), duck carpaccio, mussels, and a scallop ceviche. The cigars and the carpaccio both came with a nice size salad and the ceviche was served on a bed of very edible greens. I enjoyed the availability of vegetables that were acting as a component and not simply a garnish. The mussels were fresh, flavorful, and plentiful. The ceviche was made with beautiful bay scallops (or rounds cut from larger sea scallops- it was hard to tell because it was my first time having scallops prepared in this method) that radiated an almost incandescent glow. The duck carpaccio was universally enjoyed and the Turkish cigars, with their texture and flavor, bordered on the sublime. My only critique of the first round is that the cigar appetizer should have been just slightly larger to justify its cost.
They also have a meze table that offers what appear to be more traditional tapas. After going to Pour, I think Brio, expensive as it is, is a better choice for a wine and tapas happy hour. Pour just did not offer enough wine at a realistic price point for teachers beginning their weekend.
Now comes the time to start talking about price. There were plenty of wines under forty dollars that I would order from a well organized wine list. The appetizers and salads were within range of Westchester dining. The diners were where the prices started to reflect the new push to the forty dollar entree. The less expensive meat/fish plates averaged around thirty dollars. I fear this is a harbinger of a real increase in prices that has so far been afraid to cross certain thresholds. To put my fears in perspective, I remember going out on a date with Chrissie ten years ago and paying $120 for a cocktail, two bottles of wine, appetizers, dinner, coffee, an after dinner drink and a split dessert. Ten years have passed, gas is almost four dollars a gallon, and cucumbers cost almost as much as asparagus. I need to realize that times have changed. I sound like my grandmother who complains that a loaf of bread no longer costs a dime. Digression over- the main courses were great.
We ordered an inexpensive bottle of pinot noir to pair with everyone's main courses and it was a hit.
On the second day of a their revised menu (thank god winter is over according to the restaurant menu calendar), the kitchen put out a fine showing. Chrissie ordered the lamb, Brian had the scallops, Cara had the special of the day, a spicy couscous with assorted meat, and I had the branzino.
Brian's dish had more than a half dozen nicely seared scallops served over an opulent lobster risotto. Cara's couscous consisted of lamb, chicken, and merguez sausage. Chrissie's lamb was very nicely cooked and flavorful. My branzino was delicious, but could have been a larger portion. I'm used to ordering branzino as a whole fish and I wished I'd had more to enjoy. To make up for a short portion, the fish had a wonderful crispy skin.
We skipped coffee and dessert to hit Ben and Jerry's on the drive home so I can't comment on the concluding portion of their menu.
High points-
Low points-
Will we go back? We certainly will go back. Especially as a place to take other people, Brio has an impressive menu that does not seem too large for the kitchen to deal with. Only the price of main courses keeps Brio from becoming a rotational regular for just Chrissie and me. I suppose the time looms that we will be used to seeing these prices on dishes that are not specials, but until then, I will continue to find thirty dollars a price point that causes a slight cringe in the wallet.
That said, I would be very happy to try Brio for drinks and meze dining.
Update (6/7/2008) - I received an email from Daniel Rubino, the executive chef at Brio, explaining that his newest menu has added a few more economical dishes and lowered the prices of some of the existing dishes. His stated philosophy is to encourage more repeat dining by keeping his price points competitive. We at A Man Has to Eat applaud decisions that benefit diners. Feel free to comment below if you've eaten off the updated menu at Brio.
Brio Spring 2008 Menu
Brio is located at:
353 North Bedford Road
Mount Kisco, New York 10549
Final Vegas thoughts- Emeril's and 'wichcraft
We had tickets to see Ka, a Cirque du Soleil production, on our last night. This severely limited our dining options that night. The debate between an early or late dinner was won with 5:30 reservations for Emeril's New Orleans Fish House. Listed by the MGM as a casual dining option, the restaurant impressed us. We let the waitress know we had tickets (the theater was just across the casino floor) and she expedited our meal while still letting us enjoy our dinner.
Neither of us remembers the specifics of the meal (attribute that to too much wine in the sun at the pool, the fact that we ate appetizers and entrees at a record breaking pace, and that two weeks have passed since our visit), but I do remember well cooked fish and interesting flavors. I'd do it again for mid priced Vegas dining that happens to be conveniently located in the hotel in which we are staying.
The surprise meal of the vacation happened by chance. After hiking the strip from end to end and taking the monorail back to the MGM I was starving and could not wait until dinner. I wanted something healthy, yet tasty. Something filling, but not fatty. Passing by the typical fast food, we stopped at 'wichcraft, a sandwich shop operating in the Craft family of restaurants run by Tom Colicchio. I was going to get a warm roasted turkey sandwich when my attention was caught by the roasted pork, cabbage, jalapeno, and mustard sandwich. Served on a surpisingly good ciabatta roll, this sandwich blew me away. The spice of the mustard and the jalapeno, the flavor of the pork, and the crunchy mouth feel of the cabbage combined for several of my most pleasing food minutes of the vacation.
The only other food pleasure I wish to report on is my renewed appreciation for drinking inexpensive wine out of plastic bottles in the sun. In Greece we would buy 2 liter bottles of wine and ration them out into half liter water bottles to take with us on our daily journeys. There is something so wonderfully refreshing about simply enjoying wine as a beverage. I love a fine wine as much as the next guy, but I love being reminded that the pleasure of wine is not only in its flavor and complexity, but in its ability to slightly gild the the little moments of life and to create a community experience for those participating.
Nobhill- Las Vegas
After renting a car just to drive to Rosemary's, we decided to take advantage of the dining options offered by the MGM Grand. In a perfect world we would have eaten at Joel Robouchon, but we had neither the attire nor the capital required to sit for his $250 six course or $385 16 course tasting menus. Not to be defeated, we walked further down the casino floor and explored Nobhill, one of two Michael Mina restaurants in the Grand.
They had no trouble taking our reservation for the next day or for honoring our table request for a private booth. The booths ran parallel to the bar and we were seated in a perfect one between the bar and dining room.
We already knew we were ordering the tasting menu, so our only real decision was about Chrissie's choice of drink. After some deliberation, Chrissie decided to order her first ever wine pairing. To spice things up, she ordered the standard sommelier's and I, for the sake of comparison, ordered the premium pairing. In general terms, I liked only one of wines noticeably more than Chrissie's and she preferred her own by a wide margin. I got the sense that two of my glasses were a bit oxidized, possibly left over from bottles opened during the weekend, but I couldn't tell enough to say something. There was no flaw detected at all in Chrissie's glasses.
The meal began with glasses of champagne and a caviar parfait. The parfait itself was huge, with a shallot-potato cake base, layers of creme fraiche and smoked salmon in the middle, and a frosting of caviar lining the top. The entire dish as a whole was great, but I would have preferred it to be deconstructed so I could better control the ratios of each mouthful. Chrissie did not finish hers because she wanted to save room for what most reviews said was a heavy meal.
The second dish was the signature lobster pot pie that began with a table service from beautiful copper pots. The lobster may have been a little tough, but Chrissie and I both though the dish was fine, but again, overwhelming in its size and composition. One could argue that a diner is definitely getting his money's worth, but we would both prefer to recoup our expenses in other ways than quantity.
I was beginning to get nervous because our next dish was essentially fried chicken served over mac and cheese, but this course turned out to be my favorite of the evening. Everything, from portion to texture, of this dish was perfectly executed. In fact, I could argue against my previous statements and suggest they provide more of the truffled macaroni and cheese. The chicken was exquisitely cooked and seasoned. The crust was delicate and thin. The truffle flavor of the macaroni, along with sauce, provided an earthy anchor for an ethereal plate. After the first two courses I was almost shocked by this dish.
The meal continued to progress beyond the competent, but uninspiring, first two courses with the Kobe beef main course. The meat was perfect and was served with seared foie gras that Chrissie deemed the best in texture and flavor since Gary Danko. She was so enamored by her foie gras that I was able to trade some of mine away with her so I could enjoy more of the beef. Presentation, flavor, and perfect cooking made the last two dishes the most successful of our Vegas trip.
By this point, Chrissie and I were both incredibly stuffed. We're not big dessert people. We would usually rather have another course over dessert, but the Banana Tarte Tatin at Nobhill was one of my favorite desserts ever. I could feel a layer fat growing beneath my chin as I ate, but I was powerless to not finish the plate.
High Points-
Low Points-
Would we go back? If we are ever in Las Vegas again I don't think we will return to Nobhill. The meal was very good, but for the price, there are other restaurants I'd like to experience. We had some great dishes, but for a week's salary I need to be awestruck to contemplate a return visit when there are so many other options. That said, I in no way regret the dinner and I would suggest to anyone in a similar situation that they try this restaurant.
Friday, April 25, 2008
Rosemary's Restaurant- Las Vegas
Chrissie and I just returned from a spring break trip to Las Vegas. In true A Man Has to Eat fashion, our trip centered more around food than casinos. Arriving late Sunday night, we walked from the Signature end of the MGM Grand to the pedestrian entrance on the strip. The round trip expedition to find two dollar bottles of water might have been a mile.
The next day we rented a car for the explicit purpose of driving to Rosemary's, a restaurant about six miles from the strip. After pricing cabs, we determined it would be make more sense to get a car and do some exploring, including a trip out to the Hoover Dam.
Armed with the Garmin unit that Chrissie got me for my birthday, we staked out the restaurant on the way back to the hotel. Set in a suburban strip mall, Rosemary's is one of the true pleasures of Las Vegas. Zaggat gave them a 29 and the Frommer's guide book touts it as the place to go if you truly appreciate food. That was all the prompting we needed to make our reservations two months in advance.
Arriving for a seven o'clock reservation, we found the restaurant beginning to fill up. The interior was much larger than the shopping center facade suggested and the tables were nicely spread apart, filling three rooms: one in the bar, another adjacent to the open kitchen, and a third, where we ate, that created a hypotenuse between the other two.
While Chrissie was washing up, the waitress presented the menus and told me she'd return as soon as Chrissie did to explain the eating options. Able to read for myself, I outlined the a la carte, three course, and chef's tasting menus to Chrissie before our waitress had a chance to return. We didn't rent a car and plan our day around a meal to miss anything, so we quickly decided that the tasting menu was in order.
The only two missteps of the evening revolved around drinks. Since I was getting the wine pairing with my meal, Chrissie decided to order a half bottle instead of getting wines by the glass. They were out of the one she wanted. Not a big deal.
My mistake was more troubling, but, after realizing what was going on, the waitress fixed everything. I wasn't going to have a martini that night, but the menu described the martinis as a four ounce pour of the premium liquor of your choice in a cocktail glass swirled with vermouth. I was powerless to resist the menu's advertising of classic portion and near Churchillian proportion. Unfortunately, there was an error somewhere along the line and the waitress returned with Chrissie's glass of wine and the glass of champagne meant to accompany my first course. I politely asked her if she had brought the champagne before the cocktail on purpose. For a moment she looked confused, and then she remembered that I had ordered a cocktail. The next couple of minutes where the only stressful ones of the evening. I worried if this was a forecast of what the rest of the evening would be like. The stress continued after she retrieved my drink because I now had a martini and a glass of champagne in front of me and I wasn't sure if kitchen understood that I was having a drink. A five course tasting menu involves careful orchestration between the front and back of the house. My apprehension was relieved when the waitress returned a few minutes later assuring us that the kitchen understood the pace of our meal and taking away my champagne with the promise of a freshened glass to go with the first course. It was a tough five minutes, but I made it (only partially tongue in cheek).
The first course was a caviar dish that was everything a caviar dish should be. A delicate, beautiful, and light plate was presented with traditional components deconstructed in a fashion that made it artistic and easy to eat.
The next two courses highlighted the chef's New Orleans background. Course two was a barbecued shrimp dish served over a blue cheese slaw. It was incredibly interesting, but not very special. Course three was a crispy skinned fish served over a creole sauce boasting tiny rock shrimp. Again, it was tasty, but not special. There were other dishes on the menu I think would better highlight the chef's product. These choices, especially after the classic presentation of a caviar first course left me unable to discern a philosophy behind the tasting menu.
The meat course was anchored by two healthy sized lamb chops fired to a consistent medium rare. After the intense flavors of the previous two dishes, I found the lamb chops to be under seasoned. I don't think I would have felt that way had the menu followed a different progression.
High Points-
Low Points-
Would we go back? If we are ever in Vegas again we will certainly return, but I believe we will order the three course menu that allows you to choose your own dishes. There were aspects of the menu that I would have much preferred to explore over the chef's selections.
Rosemary's Restaurant is located at:
8125 West Sahara Avenue
Las Vegas, Nevada 89117
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Cafe of Love
Last night we ate at Cafe of Love in Mt. Kisco. Since they don't take reservations for parties smaller than five, Chrissie and I arrived very early in order to ensure a table. The hostess informed us that a table would be ready momentarily and asked if we would like to sit at the bar.
The dining room is small and, at 6:15, was already packed. The bar was friendly and we ordered cocktails. As we ordered our drinks Chrissie noticed another hostess giving our table away. She was apologetic, but our few minutes turned into more than a half an hour. In their defense, a table was offered to us in fifteen minutes, but Chrissie and I decided to wait for a two top that was not flanked on all sides by other tables. The Cafe of Love is loud to begin with and I can imagine the celebratory atmosphere is only increased when a table has no side of relief.
The room itself is very welcoming and blends comforting wood furnishings with modern colors and accents. At this point in the restaurant's life, the bar is probably too large, but I can imagine a time in a few months, or few years if they keep the pace up, when the bar itself could be part of the draw of the location. As it stands now, patrons wait two or three deep at the bar for a table during the peak seating time and I wonder how many more seats could be accommodated by a smaller bar. This also makes me wonder how long the no reservations for parties under five will last. I hope they pay careful attention to their customers and how they dine or the management runs the risk of burning too brightly for a short time and then dying out when a new hot spot opens, taking the fly by night customers who care more about being seen than about food and service.
Over cocktails we discovered the bartender was someone my twin sister had dated briefly at the end of high school. That conversation made the wait for the table less of a burden. Unfortunately, the other bartender managed to drop the cocktail shaker into my martini glass, splashing most of the contents about my lap and chest.
Our motto at A Man Has to Eat is good food trumps all and Chrissie and I were still excited to try the food that has gotten such rave reviews in both the Westchester food press and blogs.
I ordered the signature soup, a harvest puree, because I felt it important to start my dining experience at the root of the restaurant. Cafe of Love spawned from Ladle of Love, a Mt. Kisco lunch place that is renowned for its soups and restaurant quality take out. Knowing this, I felt I would be missing the soul of the dining room offshoot if I oredered otherwise. The soup was delicious, but very heavy. I've been writing this a lot lately, but the soup seemed out of season. I understand that it is a harvest soup, but harvest was months ago and my palate is begging for thinner textures and lighter flavors. While I don't think the harvest soup should be removed from the Ladles of Love menu, I believe that early April should see a new soup featured on the Cafe menu.
Chrissie had the foie gras appetizer. She was neither over or underwhelmed. If you like foie gras as much as my wife does, it is probably worth while. If you like it as much as I do (read- to take a few bites of your wife's, appreciate it, but never order it unless it ia a component of a dish or a course on a tasting menu) then you would be better off looking elsewhere on the menu for an appetizer. When finished with the dish Chrissie was pleased that competent foie gras could be ordered without going to a white table cloth.
Our main courses were both very good. I had the strip steak and the piece itself was magnificent. I was very impressed by the cook's ability to sear a perfect crust on my meat. I ordered medium rare and the mark was missed, but the meat itself withstood the extra cooking and was still succulent. If I ordered the steak there again I would be sure to let the waiter know it is better to err on the side of rare. The steak was served with a trio of dipping sauces, none of which I wound up using. The sauces were interesting, but none were good enough to put on a wonderfully seasoned cut of steak. Chrissie had a piece of fish that was cooked perfectly, but whose flavor may have been slightly overpowered by an essence of smoke.
High Points-
Low Points-
Will we go back? Although I clearly stated we were caught up in the buzz of Cafe of Love, I don't think we are returning until that buzz subsides. At the prices paid, I want to be treated to a wonderful evening. I suppose there are people who place a premium on being at the right place with the right people. Chrissie and I are not those people. We place a premium on food, service, and value for the dollar.
I'd like to during the summer, when we have time off, try the restaurant again during the week to see if the experience is more enjoyable. I've read a review that spoke of a black truffle soup topped with a bit of foie gras being presented before the main courses were served. Nothing close to that top notch restaurant experience occurred while we were there.
The saddest part was not the lost table or the spilled drink, it is that the next time we go to Cafe of Love we will not be as excited as were for our first dinner there. It is a rare occasion when we get, after dining in Westchester for over ten years, a true sense of pleasure just from entering an establishment. My advice to the owner of Cafe of Love would be to cultivate the clientèle that longs to eat there over the cohort who longs to be there. The diners will continue to return long after the trendsetters have moved to hipper pastures.
Cafe of Love is located at:
38 East Main Street
Mount Kisco, New York 10549
Goldfish
In the past few weeks I've had the opportunity to dine at Goldfish in Ossining twice. The first time I went was during restaurant week. I found the meal to be a little off, but I didn't write about it because I thought the fixed price menu and the increase in customers might have put undue stress on their systems. For example, I had the seared tuna, and the fish, while perfectly cooked, was not the quality one could expect at a restaurant specializing in fish. To add to my latest theory, the kitchen gave a ridiculously large portion. I feel that chefs, in an effort to fight higher costs, have been increasing plate size to make up for purchasing lower quality ingredients. I'm not saying the food was bad, but it wasn't as good as it had been during the summer when we last went.
I went back a week and a half later with my in-laws. I started with the pan roasted octopus that turned out to be a mistake. The meat itself was barely edible. To add to the failings of the texture, the kitchen had left way too much of the tentacles uncut and they ended in pointlessly long squiggles of chewy string. I was actually shocked. If it had just been the sauce or the idea of the dish I wasn't pleased with I would take on a much mellower tone in my critique, but there were no components of this plate executed properly.
For dinner I had the roasted Chilean sea bass. The fish itself was perfectly cooked this time, but the crust was very soggy. The portion size and the good fire on the fish helped to make up for any flaws (again, that portion size was very large and makes me wonder).
My in-laws had soup/chowder and those were very tasty. Chrissie had the tuna tartare. The tuna chunks and the portions were huge (not in a good way) and the the overall dish was heavy. She had a special for dinner that was fine.
High Points-
Low Points-
Will we go back? We have had great meals at Goldfish. We sent my Aunt and Uncle there this winter and they had a few very good meals. With that in mind I am willing to go back to Goldfish and give them another chance, but I can't imagine that happening before the summer.
Update- We went back recently with my aunt and uncle. The food was in fact differently portioned (the sea bass was a normal sized piece and did not have the oily crumb crust). My aunt described a similar experience with the octopus and no one tempted fate by ordering it a third time. The only issue of the evening was a plate of truffled French fries that arrived just as we were ordering dessert. The management was very apologetic and offered complimentary desserts to balance out the issue. The real shame of the matter was that the fries were very good and I would have enjoyed devouring them during the meal.
Goldish is located at:
6 Rockledge Avenue
Ossining, NY 10562
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Mima Vinoteca
After happy hour at Pour a few weeks ago Chrissie and I decided to try some of the other wine bars that have opened in Westchester. Since we were so enamored with the former location of The Red Hat in Irvington, its new occupant, Mima Vinoteca, became the next step in our wine bar dining experiment.
We arrived punctually, during daylight for the first time of the season, for a 6:30 reservation. The physical layout remained very similar in spirit to what we remembered. The brick walls, tiled floor, thick wooden tables, and central bar create an environment that is welcoming, warm, and intimate. Adding to the familiar feeling, we were greeted by one of my former students eating with her family and a teacher from another school district with whom I'd taken a few graduate classes.
The wine list is Italian, encompassing the various regions of the country, and the prices range mostly between forty and one hundred dollars, with a few outliers in the thirties and some rising to the three hundred dollar mark. I would have liked to have seen a few more bottles under forty dollars. It saddens me to think of the United States as a country that understands wine as the intoxicant of the rich. I believe wine merchants, sommeliers, and wine proponents do themselves, and the entire wine community, a disservice when they don't embrace inexperienced drinkers or those with pockets less deep.
To begin, Chrissie had a glass of the house chardonnay. It was complex, with a long finish and a buttery texture. We both found it much fruitier than the California chardonnays she typically drinks. The flavor of apple was very pronounced. I had a Tanqueray martini that was served in a stemless glass. It looked very pretty, but I prefer function to form in my barware. Luckily I finished it quickly enough that I didn't have to worry about my hands warming the cocktail.
Asking the sommelier for help and telling him we were on a budget didn't prove very useful. He directed us toward a $65 bottle that sounded promising and a $35 bottle that sounded too sweet. After determining that we did not want to spend over $50 on an untested wine, we ordered a bottle of the house cabernet sauvignon, Di Majo Norante 2006. It was surprisingly pleasant and had good mouthfeel, flavor, and spice. It could have been a bit bolder, but I was happy we had gotten a wine on the cheap that was enjoyable.
For an appetizer, Chrissie and I split a plate of handmade trecce (little braids) served with egg, black pepper, onion, and smoked bacon. The dish is presented with a beautiful yolk on top that, when broken, combines with the elements to make a luxurious sauce. It was very good and my favorite part of the meal.
For dinner, Chrissie had the lamb chops and I had the skirt steak. Her lamb chops were cooked perfectly. The outer sear formed a perfectly symmetrical layer of flavor surrounding a rare middle. A cross section cut looked like a piece of seared tuna. I found her dish, served with lentils and figs, too hearty for this late in March. In its defense, the lentils were perfectly cooked and, had it been January, I would find the plate very successful. I was also hoping the lamb chop dish would more resemble the one at Zuppa, Mima's sister restaurant in Yonkers.
My skirt steak was a very generous portion, served rolled and plated on its side atop parmigiano mashed potatoes and broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe was more than seared as promised on the menu and was mostly forgettable. The mashed potatoes were very creamy and took on the consistency of a thick sauce. If this was the chef's intent, he did a great job, because they worked well with the steak, both in terms of flavor and feel, but I wouldn't have called them mashed potatoes. The steak itself was delicious. Chrissie found it chewy, but I don't think she has ever commented positively on the texture of skirt steak. The flavor was very present, with an almost Latino bite and spice, probably from the peppedew, and I enjoyed it more than Chrissie's lamb.
For dessert we ordered a plate of three cheeses off the dinner menu. The cheeses, parmigiano reggiano, gorgonazola piccante, and taleggio, were nicely portioned and interesting. I had an espresso and then a glass of brachetto d'acqui and we called it a night.
High points- Our waiter, Pablo, was fantastic. He had no problem turning an entree into an appetizer, he immediately summoned the sommelier when he could not answer a wine question, and he asked me when I would like my espresso served because he noticed I was still finishing a glass of wine. A friendly, competent, and attentive waiter adds so much to the enjoyment of a meal.
The food was good and Chrissie and I both got the sense that the kitchen has a very consistent output.
The dining room is perfect for a neighborhood bistro or wine bar.
That they specialize in Italian wines makes me confident the wines that populate the list have been carefully selected.
Low points- While the wine list is impressive to look at, I longed for more choices at an affordable price point.
There were too many specials to not have a printed list.
Will we go back? The dinner menu has enough small plates, including the meat and cheese plate, to warrant a trip back for an intimate after work drink and light meal. For a full dinner Chrissie and I both agree that the food was good enough to rate a second visit, but not exceptional enough to displace other restaurants on our to try list. If our next visit, hopefully after the winter menu has been retired, is as successful as our last, Mima's could make the rotation.
Mima Vinoteca is located at:
63 Main Street
Irvington, NY 10533
Sunday, March 9, 2008
QuickBites- March
It has been about two weeks since our last update. In that time we've tried a wine bar for happy hour, gotten Greek takeout, gone to Encore with my father, and had dinner at a neighborhood American place before seeing a show in Tarrytown.
This update will be a summary and not a full review.
Feb. 29- Two weeks ago Chrissie decided that she wanted to try something different for happy hour. We typically go to Pete's Saloon after work on Friday for a few drinks and a bite to eat. This week she convinced us all to try Pour, a wine bar in Mt. Kisco. Pour has a nice atmosphere, fun and fancy small plates and platters, and a large wine list. We tried two hot dishes, the special bruschetta, and a cheese and meat plate to accompany the two wines by the glass Chrissie had and the bottle of Malbec the boys shared. We wanted to stay longer, but the wines were too expensive for a happy hour. I would love to find a wine bar that is interested in cultivating a more middle class clientèle. We stopped at Lefteris II to get Greek takeout and took everyone back to our condo for the rest of the night.
March 6- JP, my father, called last night to invite us to dinner and a jazz concert at SUNY Purchase. We went to his favorite restaraunt, Encore in Larchmont. We typically get to Encore a few times a month and value their bistro menu and consistent kitchen. Clearly others are of the same opinion as my family because the dining room is usually filled every night of the week. I had the cassoulet and Chrissie and JP both had the Chilean sea bass special.
March 8- Last night Chrissie and I had tickets to see a comedy show at the Tarrytown Music Hall. We ate at Jack and Dyl's, a neighborhood restaurant serving traditional American fare. The menu was ambitious for upgraded tavern food and the kitchen couldn't keep up with its promise. I had mussels to start and the duck special. Both were overdone. Chrissie began with a lamb over flatbread appetizer and had the Westchester Magazine recommended short ribs for dinner. She was pleased with the preparation of the lamb, it was well cooked and flavorful, but thought the short ribs were very underseasoned. Judging by how many tables were filled at such an early hour, they must be properly attracting a demographic, but I found the restaurant confused. The menu suggests something more refined, but they were out of Tanqueray, had no espresso machine, and seemed to balance an inexperienced kitchen with large portions. I'd recommend either simplifying the menu or providing more oversight in the kitchen to help marry their philosophy and execution.
This week we have a wine dinner hosted by our favorite wine store, The Wine Professionals, located in North White Plains in the Sir John's Plaza. Carmine and Eric specialize in affordable and interesting wines. They are always tasting multiple bottles on the weekend and they usually have out a dinner ruining spread of cheeses, meats, breads, and the occasional cooked food. They are very helpful and informative and are never pretentious or condescending. It is a great store for neophytes, bargain hunters, and those who like supporting neighborhood shops.
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Broiled Rabbit & Vintage Port
Since starting this blog two weeks ago I have come up with a few ground rules.
1) Restaurants that we frequent can't be written up the same way as new ones. Our familiarity with these establishments changes the experience and this must show in the writing for fairness and accuracy.
2) Only new meals are rated- Friends have asked why I don't write about the great meal at wherever and I tell them because the blog doesn't go back in time.
3) I won't blog a restaurant friends take us to. I don't want dinner to revolve around my experience. I want to enjoy my friends.
4) I won't rate someone else's cooking (friends, family, etc.)
That said, I am about to sidestep rule number four by simply describing and not assessing.
I've had a few influences in my love of food, drink, and cooking, but one person stands out as the man who was probably the most influential.
My Uncle John, who has been hosting and preparing family gatherings for the past two decades, is an incredibly accomplished home cook whose menus and meals put many a costly night out to shame.
Chrissie and I look forward to nights out with my aunt and uncle. They are great company, not only because we all share a fondness for food, but because they are genuinely good people.
But enough feel good writing, if you are reading this you either already know about Aunt Nancy and Uncle John or you have stumbled upon my blog and want to read about food and drink.
Last night we were invited over for a Spanish evening.
We arrived at Uncle John's house just before six thirty and were met with cocktails and a tapas presentation of jamon Serrano and an assortment of Spanish cheeses. My aunt and uncle have been vacationing in Spain for some time now and have developed quite the affinity for the Spanish culinary culture. The cheeses, ham, and olives were all imported from Spain and immediately took Chrissie and me back to our visit there two years ago.
The heavy eating began when Uncle John put four terracotta cazuelas on the stove top. Each contained olive oil, slices of garlic, tiny whole hot peppers, and a bay leaf. When the cazuelas bubbled they were turned into the traditional gambas al ajillo, or garlic shrimp, with the addition of half dozen beautiful large shrimp each.
At this point of the evening, bottles of cold vinho verde were freely flowing. Vinho verde, a young, light, effervescent wine is a favorite of mine and complements the depth of Spanish flavors very well.
The main course of the evening was broiled rabbit. When we arrived we were met by a high walled baking sheet containing the butchered and marinating pieces of two rabbits waiting to go under the broiler for an initial cooking. They got their first taste of heat as we ate cheese and then the rabbit rested while we ate the gambas.
The rabbits went back into the oven to finish cooking while Uncle John prepared the side dishes of sauteed mushrooms, white asparagus with an orange garlic sauce (al aiolio de naranja), and patatas bravas (fierce potatoes, a pan fried potatoe served with a flavorful hot sauce).
Dinner was finished with a St. James almond tart and poached pears. Before dessert was served Uncle John started talking about a bottle of Port he'd been thinking about opening. I was sent to the basement to retrieve what turned out to be a vintage bottle older than I am.
I returned to the table with a 1970 Fonseca Vintage Port and I knew my uncle must love me. The bottle was in good condition and I was instructed to carefully open it. Removing the metallic casing around the neck revealed a wax coated cork. There had been some evaporation and the wine could be smelled through the softened barrier.
I was terrified as I introduced the cork pull to the bottle. It took almost no pressure to insert the screw and I was very confident when I went to pull. My confidence was rewarded with a cork that left its bottom centimeter in the bottle. I attempted to retrieve the final piece with both the corkpull and a thin knife, but I was unsuccessful and the cork splintered into the wine. A fine strainer caught the particulate as I poured and we were ready to enjoy.
Chrissie and I both enjoy Port. Usually she will have a few sips of mine and that will be enough to sate her taste. Last night, she helped herself to a few pours. We talked and drank for some time until there were only a few inches left in the bottle. It probably would have been interesting to save the remainder for the next day and see how the flavor opened, but it didn't stand a chance against us. We finished the bottle, realized it was almost midnight, and concluded the night.
Monday, February 18, 2008
Xaviar's at Piermont
We hate going out to dinner on Valentine's Day because all of the people who don't usually go to restaurants invade and degrade my experience. I may be a curmudgeon, but I feel, on Valentine's Day, how an old regular must feel at his favorite pub on St. Patrick's Day with all of the drunk one timers crowded around his seat.
With that in mind, instead of going out on Valentine's Day, we had friends over. I roasted a chicken, sauteed a chiffonade of Brussel sprouts in bacon, prepared some wild rice, and ended the evening with a chocolate fondue. It could have been my favorite Valentine's Day in recent memory. We avoided the nitwits and enjoyed a nice meal with the people we love.
Which leads us to last night. Chrissie and I still wanted to celebrate our own personal Valentine's Day. We ate, not too long ago, at X2O, Peter Kelly's Yonkers restaurant, and had a great time. The food, the staff, and location were all spot on and the prices weren't nearly as high as I presumed they would have to be. To top off the evening, as we were leaving we walked through the bar to get a look at the view and I recognized Mr. Kelly, who was dining with a small group of people. I didn't want to be rude, so I merely gave him a nod of recognition. He immediately sprang from his chair, greeted me, and asked about dinner. I felt like he was a man who genuinely cared about his food and my enjoyment of it.
Our positive experience at X2O led us to seek reservations at Xaviar's for our belated Valentine's Day celebration. We wanted to go on Saturday night, but the seating times, six and nine, were either too early or too late for us, so we made a seven o'clock reservation for Sunday.
Upon arrival, we were seated and offered cocktails immediately. Before ordering I asked the waiter about wine pairings with dinner. He fliply told me that it could be done, but offered no information as he walked away. When he returned I ordered a cocktail and we asked about the chef's tasting menu. My questions were again met with gruff responses and minimal information. I was beginning to get upset. It's not like I was asking about substitutions, detailed ingredient lists, or specific cooking techniques employed. In fact, I was upselling myself and the waitstaff didn't seem to care one bit about my very simple needs.
That said, I can forgive a mediocre front of the house when good food begins coming my way from the back of the house. An amuse consisting of broiled salmon and avocado was presented. I found it very good. The fat of the avocado played wonderfully against the salmon.
After the initial presentation of food I persisted in finding out more about the chef's tasting menu. The waiter reluctantly agreed to tell me that it was ten courses and solely up to the discretion of the chef. He added that adjustments could be made for food allergies. We let him know that no modification would be necessary and I asked him to pair mine with wine.
Our meal began and I knew we were in for trouble when the first dish came out. For some reason I cannot fathom, the chef sent out a creamy spaghetti with crab meat. There was nothing delicate or introductory about this dish. Chrissie mentioned that it would not have been out of place at the Italian place down the street from our condo. To make matters worse, my wine pairing came halfway through the plate, which was large and took some time to eat. Adding insult to the timing of the wine, the waiter left my empty cocktail on the table and didn't bother to ask my wife if she needed another glass of wine as we began the meal. I got so annoyed that I eventually summoned the waiter, as he finished at a nearby table, and asked him to bring my wife another drink and to remove the cocktail glass that now stood next to an empty wine glass (our table had begun to look like we were using stemware as chess pieces).
The table was cleared, Chrissie's drink was refreshed, and I was ready, once again, to embrace optimism. Our next course came out, although the waiter presented it ambiguously as something special from the chef that was not a course. Confused, we ate what was a delicious scallop morsel served in a ceramic soup spoon. It turns out that the scallop was a course, but we only figured that out after counting at the end of the evening.
Our next plate was a yellow tail sashimi served with pear and a delicate foam. Had I not shown restraint, I could have easily finished the dish before my wine came. I was served a small glass of cold Sake. The dish should have been good, but we could not figure out if the chocolate flavor was a combination we were not sophisticated enough to appreciate or if someone had made a mistake in the kitchen.
Our first three dishes came out in rapid succession. We sat and waited a while for the next course. This would be a recurrent theme through the evening. The pace was incredibly random and seemed to have nothing to do with what was coming next or what the previous dish had been.
Our wait was rewarded by a piece of fish, I believe it was snapper, that was cruncy on top and buttery and moist on the bottom. Our reward was short lived when the starch the fish was served on tasted incredibly similar to the cream sauce from the spaghetti course that randomly began our meal.
By this point I was starting to give up on the evening. Our next presentation was a foie gras foam. It was tasty, but if I am eating foie gras, I want to experience the texture and this was taken away from me. This was followed by a chicken dish that was literally some slices of chicken. It was well cooked and the sauce was fantastic, but we are talking about the kitchen of a man who won on Iron Chef and has the only 29 in the Westchester Zagat. I can't imagine why the chef decided to send out sliced chicken to represent himself on his tasting menu. Much of our meal felt as if the chef sent out whatever he had left over after preparing someone else's dish.
By the time the lamb dish came I was excited to have something tastefully presented that made sense in the order of plates. The conclusion of the meal began with a very nice apple sorbet and was followed by a sampling of four desserts.
Through dinner we were served by no fewer than three waiters, only one of whom was in any way polite, informative, or appropriate. The others ranged from distant to rude, simply putting down plates without the fanfare associated with an unknown tasting menu. Only the one competent waiter spent any time at our table side explaining the dishes and wines in any detail and with any enthusiasm. I can imagine asking my staff to be incredibly formal, but if that is the case they should not break character to insult my wife by commenting on how much food she ate.
High points- Everything was cooked well and the sauces were very flavorful (though it seemed we saw a few of them, with minor adjustments, more than once). The wines were paired very well and were on par for the price of the pairing (although I can't imagine why they were continually served well after the food).
Low points- The tasting menu made very little sense and was not of a quality I would expect from a restaurant this highly decorated. The front of the house was crass and I was actually insulted at some points by the presentations from the bar and kitchen. To put how negative my feelings are into perspective, we've eaten tasting menus at Gary Danko in San Francisco, Etoile at Chandon in Napa, Le Bernardin and Jean-Georges in Manhattan, and Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Equus in Westchester. Not every dish we've ever eaten has been perfect. Not every waiter has been helpful and kind. I'll even say that some meals have been more disappointing than sublime, but this is the first time we ever left a great restaurant and didn't at least understand the philosophy and respect the attempt.
Will we go back?
Judging the restaurant through the lens of one evening makes me question all of the accolades Xaviar's has received. Was last night a random convergence of events that singularly could be overlooked, but collectively left me very angry, or is Xaviar's simply overrated by Zagat readers who have a higher tolerance for mediocrity than they should and a press who is afraid of looking out of touch? I'll have to say that, until I hear differently from a source I trust, Xaviar's is officially on the list. Although Xaviar's is currently banned, I would not hesitate to return to X2O.
Xaviar's is located at:
506 Piermont Avenue
Piermont, NY 10968
Sunday, February 10, 2008
Zuppa Restaurant and Lounge
Last night we went to Zuppa Restaurant in Yonkers with Chrissie's family to continue our celebration of her thirtieth birthday. Chrissie and I had eaten there once before about a year ago and we had a very nice dinner. Last time we went we did appetizers, a pasta course, and entrees. We passed on the pasta course last night because the night before had been a gluttonous endeavor that included a fondue, two extra large pizzas, and the better part of a case of wine.
When we arrived for our 6:30 reservation, the restaurant was empty. This was great for us because we had a chance to settle in, talk to one another, and look at the menu before it got packed and noisy.
Mike, Chrissie's brother, and I ordered cocktails and Chrissie got the first bottle of wine. The wine list was fairly large and had a few bottles under thirty dollars. We tried two of them by the end of the night. Chrissie decided to try the Chianti while we had cocktails and appetizers. The wine was thin and disappointing.
While we looked at the menu a plate of bruschetta was presented. This was followed by a bread basket accompanied by an miniature carafe filled with olive oil. We took our time with the menu and the waitstaff was patient and observant.
To begin the meal, my mother-in-law ordered a Tuscan style soup with cabbage, smoked ham, and beans. The soup was served table side from a silver tureen into a bowl containing a large toasted crouton. The soup had a deep vegetable flavor, but was a little under seasoned. I would have expected the ham to pass on more of its salt and savory profile, but the beans and the vegetables were the only real discernible flavors.
My father-in-law had the crisp calamari which was very good. The calamari were nicely fried to an eye pleasing gold and the meat itself was very tender. The calamari were served on a bed of arugula, beans, and currants.
Mike had a kumquat salad with goat cheese. I didn't really get to taste his, but he said he liked it and it had interesting flavors.
The duck leg served with a fried egg and truffle vinaigrette that Chrissie had was my favorite appetizer. The meat was served off the bone and the flavors and textures all worked very well. It was also a generous portion of duck meat. Everyone at the table had at least one bite of Chrissie's and there was still enough for her to enjoy.
I had the barbequed octopus. The meat itself was great and had developed a thin layer of char over very succulent meat. The potato salad that the octopus was served on was fine, but didn't quite fit the dish, both in terms of flavor and temperature. Unlike Chrissie's generous portion of duck, I felt like I had very little octopus, but the pieces I had were delicious and well cooked.
We finished the first bottle of wine and decided to try the other twenty-six dollar bottle on the menu, an Argentinian cabernet. My compliments go to the waiter who must have known that our main courses were about to come out because he had our bottle table side in record time. This bottle was a much better match for our palates and food.
For dinner I had the smoked pork tenderloin. This is a dish I normally wouldn't be attracted to, but after eating at Southbound this week I wanted to compare fine Italian smoked pork to traditional barbeque. The flavor of the pork was delicious. Some of the people at the table thought the meat was dry. I wouldn't go that far, but it could have used a thinner sauce to bring a juiciness back to the meat. The polenta my pork was served over was similar to the potato salad my octopus was presented on. It was fine, but mismatched in my opinion. On the other hand, the roasted brussel sprouts that accompanied my dish were a perfect contrast in both flavor and texture to my meat. I wish more restaurants would serve brussel sprouts.
Mike had the most successful dinner at the table. His grilled lamb chops were fired perfectly and were uniquely and appropriately seasoned. I wish I had been sitting next to him because he had a hard time finishing his meal and I would have loved to have had an easier reach to his plate.
The most interesting plate of the night was Chrissie's. She had veal cheeks which were plated like a deconstructed pastrami sandwich. The meat was delicate, the spices were fun, and the vegetable mimicked a sauerkraut. The plate was both adventurous and comforting.
Her parents both ordered pasta dishes. I tasted both enough to tell they were competently created and executed, but not enough to give further comment.
Since we were going back to my house for cake and presents, we split one dessert for the table. Chrissie ordered the molten lava cake, which was ok. I liked the vanilla gelato it was served with better than the cake.
The espresso was also good, but nothing like the perfect espresso I had last week at La Crémaillère which has become my new coffee benchmark.
Will we go back?
The short answer is yes, but it probably won't be for a while for a regular dinner. We are; however, interested in trying their seven course tasting menu. I think the output of this kitchen is better suited to a tasting menu. I would like the opportunity to eat the food in smaller portions in a progression envisioned by the chef. We plan on making this return trip, for a different experience, relatively soon.
Update (9/6/2008)-We were recently at Zuppa Restaurant for a bachelorette dinner. Since there were a dozen of us at the table I can't speak to all of the plates, but I can write about how impressed I was with the coordination between the kitchen and the front of the house. Considering we were a twelve top on a Saturday night, they managed our table with the same facility as if we'd been a party of four. The pacing was perfect. We never felt rushed or delayed. More importantly, the food was all properly cooked. Fish, lamb, pasta, it didn't matter. It says something about a restaurant when they don't rest on a guaranteed tip from what they could easily view as one time diners.
Zuppa is located at:
59-61 Main Street
Yonkers, NY 10701
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Southbound- lunch buffet
It appears the barbeque craze is dying down in Westchester. Jimmy Lee's, in the old Sweetwater building, is now The North End and the place on Central has been gone for some time. It seems the only places toughing it out are Q, in Port Chester, and Southbound. Anyway, I took a personal day today and some friends, who eat at Southbound with some frequency, asked me to join them.
I'd been to Southbound a few times before, twice for dinner and once for the first leg of a bachelor party, but haven't had Westchester barbeque in about two years.
A buffet lunch costs about $10 and consists of:
- salad and cole slaw
- baked beans, mashed potatoes, and mac & cheese
- barbequed chicken, chicken wings, and fried chicken
- pulled pork
- ribs
The bar was lively for one in the afternoon and was patroned by a handful of regulars who appeared to me to be pensioners enjoying some time out of the house. The customers at table where mostly middle aged men, although there was one couple- I can't say if they were there as a couple or as carnivorous coworkers. While we ate about half dozen tables came and went.
Highs- I went thinking I was going to simply eat ribs because I haven't had a barbequed rib in the longest time, but what I enjoyed most was the barbequed chicken. I almost felt as if I were avoiding the true barbeque by enjoying it so much, but it had a tremendous smoky flavor and was brilliantly cooked. Not being a BBQ expert, I'm not sure how difficult it is to cook chicken properly in a smoker, but they did these birds well. My dad likes to quote Julia Child who said you can tell a lot about a chef by how he cooks a chicken.
Lows- The sides were pedestrian. The meat could have been warmer. There was no dessert (Unless you treated the individually packaged apple sauce in the buffet as dessert as my friend Brian did).
Bottom line- I'm not taking my wife there for a date, but for the price, atmosphere, and change of pace, I'd definitely go back for lunch with the guys or for an informal dinner with friends.
Added bonus- Where else can you get a Pabst Blue Ribbon in central Westchester for two dollars and still enjoy a good meal?
Southbound is located at:
301 Columbus Avenue
Valhalla, NY 10595
La Crémaillère Restaurant
Last Saturday Chrissie and I finally tried La Crémaillère.
Typically, if we are going out for French we go to Encore in Larchmont. Less frequently we may also dine at Le Provencal in Mamaroneck, especially if my father wants to gorge on mussels for lunch. We were going to Le Jardin Du Roi for a while, but they pissed me off once with the incredibly unexpected pricing on an appetizer (We will go back. I just need some time). The final reference point I'll be using is the Red Hat Bistro in Irvington (FYI, I liked the old location more). It was Chrissie's thirtieth birthday and she wanted to try something new.
When taking the reservation, the hostess on the phone gave a choice of two seatings for Saturday. We chose the 6:30 and arrived a few minutes early, unsure of what to expect. If nothing else had lived up to expectations, the service alone, from the valet to the uniquely labeled doggie bags waiting by the coat room, was almost worth the price of admission when compared to standard Westchester dining.
We were the first patrons and customers arrived sporadically through the evening, leading me to wish we could have made a reservation for 7:30, the time when we typically choose to eat on a weekend.
We started diner with a round a drinks. I had a gin and Chrissie had a glass of wine. The bread was a sliced country loaf. It was very good and a slight surprise as I was expecting a baguette. It, and the atmosphere, created an ambiance that was both cosmopolitan and provincial. A small quiche with smoked salmon was delivered to the table. I had to ask for the wine list and I am not sure if that is standard practice. It may be because the wine list was the size of a textbook. I found it incredibly overwhelming, especially because I have very little familiarity with pricier French wines.
I asked the waiter for help and he happily obliged, choosing a wine that fit our requests, but more than doubled the cost of our usual strategy. My father, understanding the declining value of a bottle one once it is consumed, taught me to order a less expensive wine in a nice restaurant. His assumption is that the restaurateur and/or chef won't put a dud on their wine list. For the most part, this strategy has served us very well.
The waiter recommended a bottle, whose identifying information I have since forgotten, priced at $75. I normally won't spend too much time discussing cost here, but this becomes relevant for the rest of dinner. I get the approval to spend that much from Chrissie and she says that we shouldn't worry about money tonight because it is her birthday. The waiter quickly backs her up and now he is armed with important information to help make our evening more enjoyable.
On to food. For appetizers Chrissie ordered the foie gras terrine with duck confit, bibb lettuce, and goat cheese. I had the special which was a lobster spring roll. Both appetizers were of a quality and taste to be expected. Neither was sublime, but in no way were they disappointing. As a bonus, the lobster spring rolls were generously portioned.
Shortly after our appetizers were cleared we were brought tea cups containing a solitary ravioli stuffed with duck confit and surrounded by a shallow pool of a very zesty orange sauce. I'm not sure if this was complimentary to help celebrate my wife's birthday or if everyone received it that night. It was tasty, unexpected, and came long enough before our meals that it served to aid in hunger, rather than suppress it.
We both decided to get meat that night. I was going to get the lamb, but let Chrissie order it (which turned out to benefit me). The lamb was perfectly cooked and had the fresh and distinct flavor lamb should have, but Chrissie and I both thought the flavor profile of the dish was flat. There was nothing to elevate the the natural flavor of the lamb and it stood by itself, wonderful, but alone.
I ordered the filet of beef to allow Chrissie to have the lamb. It was excellent. The steak was perfectly cooked. I am very apprehensive about ordering beef (although I do it all the time), especially at high prices because my enjoyment of it can be destroyed by a kitchen that allows a plate to go out off temperature. My steak that night was medium rare at the edges and became slightly rarer with each slice toward the thickest section. The penultimate bite was a delightful balance between rare and medium rare. The flavors on my plate blew me away. I've ordered many a steak in a bistro setting and can honestly say this was one of the top presentations I've had.
It is a too bad Chrissie's lamb didn't delight as much my steak because both dishes were perfectly fired.
The waiter had, thankfully, convinced us to order a tray of pomme frites. At least half of the tables that night ordered the fries that were presented on silver pedestal between patrons. The fries were worth the added calories and not at all out of place.
While we were eating the waiter attentively took care of our wine. I was pleased that he waited until the glasses were virtually empty until he poured another portion of wine. Not only did it extend our drinking of the bottle, but he allowed each glass to blossom on its own.
Dessert was a chocolate soufflé with a wonderful contrast between its delicate egg and rich chocolate. A solitary candle signaled our waiter had not forgotten we were there to celebrate a special occasion and the table side presentation of chocolate sauce into the heart of a blossoming soufflé can do nothing but add to the experience. Chrissie finished with a decaf cappuccino and I had a double espresso accompanied by the house port. The espresso was very good. A two-tiered silver tray of petit fours completed our meal.
The check came and I noticed we were charged $90 for the $75 bottle of wine. Since it was Chrissie's thirtieth birthday and because she hates and becomes very uncomfortable when I address issues while we are out, I decided to let it slide (especially when put in the perspective of the total cost of this particular dinner. A fifteen dollar overcharge is harder to overlook on a $130 meal). Since I did not bring it up, I cannot fault the restaurant for the overcharge because I gave them no opportunity to fix the error.
It is clear that dinner was great, but will we go back?
At that price point I believe there are numerous other restaurants I would go to first. If money were no object I could see La Crémaillère joining our steady rotation. I certainly felt the entire experience was worth the price of admission, but it is a show I cannot afford on a regular basis.
La Crémaillère is located at:
46 Bedford-Banksville Road
Bedford, NY 10566
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